Question on sae 2300
GDP
Posts: 27
Hello, I am Running sda srs2 blade to blade version with a SAE 2300 amp and Yamaha c2a preamp, the amp was purchased from the original owner with a set Infinity quantum 3, I ran the quantums after a refoam until the srs2 put them in storage. The amp works well but has never to my knowledge been serviced. Even though the amp performs well I wonder if its all it can be and thought about having it restored even though I use it almost daily with no problems. I also want to feed the Polks properly. Should I not worry about it, restore the SAE, or go with something else? I am also wanting something with a lot of current but am confused that the SAE output is rated the same at 8 or 4 ohms? Thanks in advance for helping out a new guy.
Post edited by GDP on
Comments
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I was using a SAE Mark IIIa until just recently, which is older than the 2300, and it was never worked on. It performs flawlessly. I'm setting it back up in a second system. Those things were built extremely well.
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Nice amp, and you could certainly put some money into it to bring it back to spec. Older parts tend to have their values drift over time so it'll probably need some items like electrolytic caps replaced. Plus newer parts have higher quality which would improve the sound as well.
Or, you could get a newer design, which is what I would do if the funds permit. I believe that amp is a late 70's vintage, and amp designs have improved in the 30+ years since. Just MHO."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
Yeah, I guess my inferred point was that the value of the 2300 would mitigate against sticking alot of money into it, unless you had another motivation such as an emotional attachment. Is it LED or meter? BTW, that amp has pretty good power. I ran my Mark IIIa with a Dared SL2000 tube pre, and prior to that with a Harman Kardon Citation 11 solid state preamp. It sounded really good with both.
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Thanks guys, sorry Im late getting back, had to work today. The amp is a LED, and I do like the sound I get from it. I've just read on here that the SRS2 need more in the 200 watt per channel range and higher to get there best. I think I will stay with the SAE while I save for something newer. I realy like what I read about the parasound A21, but the A23 may be more in my price range. Does anybody Know why the sae outputs the same wattage at 4 or 8 ohms, I thought all good amps would be higher at lower impedence?
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Sorry double post
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Hello, I am Running sda srs2 blade to blade version with a SAE 2300 amp and Yamaha c2a preamp, the amp was purchased from the original owner with a set Infinity quantum 3, I ran the quantums after a refoam until the srs2 put them in storage. The amp works well but has never to my knowledge been serviced. Even though the amp performs well I wonder if its all it can be and thought about having it restored even though I use it almost daily with no problems. I also want to feed the Polks properly. Should I not worry about it, restore the SAE, or go with something else? I am also wanting something with a lot of current but am confused that the SAE output is rated the same at 8 or 4 ohms? Thanks in advance for helping out a new guy.
If the amp is driving your speakers to the levels you want, without hint of strain, whey are you worried about "a lot of current"? I have owned several SAE amps, including the 2300. I strongly recommend that you have your 2300 restored. At its age, the electrolytic caps could fail, and when they do, cause damage that is more costly than the cap replacement. I will also be very surprised if you don't have a substantial amount of DC offset, not enough to activate the DC protection, but enough to cause increased 2nd harmonic distortion.
I can recommend a longtime SAE tech who will do a full restoration for a reasonable fee, return shipping included. PM me if you want his contact information. This work includes replacing all electrolytic caps, including upgraded Elna Silmic II's and Nichicon Muse, replace input differential transistors and associated parts (as necessary), upgrade caps in signal path with better quality film caps, and resistors to 1 percent metal film, replace output transistor insulators with new ones, and fresh thermal compound, replace output protection circuit parts, adjust bias and DC offset to spec, burn-in amp on bench for 24 hours. With the refurbishment and upgrades, the amp should perform better than original sonically, and be good to go for another 25-30 years.Main System: Denon DP-59L | Audio-Technica AT33EV | Marantz SA-11S2 | Classe DR-10 | Classe CA-300 | Classe RC-1 | PSB Stratus Gold i's | DIY Balanced AC Power Conditioner | Acoustic Zen and NeoTech cables | Oyaide and Furutech power connectors | Dedicated 20A isolated ground line.
Home Theater: Toshiba D-VR5SU | Laptop #1 |Outlaw Audio OAW3 wireless audio system | Marantz SR-19 | Phase Linear 400 Series 2, modified | AudioSource 10.1 EQ (for subs) | Axiom M3 v3’s | Axiom VP150 | Optimus PRO-X55AVs | Dayton 12” powered subs (x2) | Belkin PureAV PF-60 line conditioner.
Party System: Laptop #2 | Audioquest Dragonfly USB DAC | Technics SU-A6 | Acurus A-250 | Radio Shack 15-band EQ | Pioneer SR-9 reverb | Cerwin Vega DX9's | Dayton 100° x 60° horns with titanium HF/MF compression drivers. -
Thanks Glen, on ocassion I have heard my amp strain a little, I was wondering about current because the specs on the back say 24.5 volts at 4 ohms, from what I have read this is a little small for the srs2's. What I wasnt sure about is if the amps age or its size is the culprit. Even if I eventualy get another amp I am interested in getting the SAE updated, Ive rushed into bad decisions in the past and I am trying to be more carefull as my budget is not the equal to my desires. I certainly dont want to screw up my amp, and I want to hear the polks be all they can be. I will PM you when my post count lets me. Another thing that worries me is how fast the relays kick in not sure if its a bad thing or not, but when I plug it in there is almost no delay before it clicks and starts to play. Thanks again for your reply.
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One more post and pm will be sent
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Your amp is rated at 150 watts into 8 ohms, no 4 ohm ratings given and that tells me while it may be able to drive a 4 ohm load, it can only do it at reasonable listening levels. Translation....don't push it too hard.
Also, and just my .02, any amp not rated at 4 ohm isn't worth modding or keeping for that matter.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
The OP never said the amp was not rated for 4 ohm operation. SAE amps, including models designed by the late Jim Bongiorno, of SUMO, GAS Ampzilla, etc. fame, list the same output into 8 ohms and 4 ohms, and work fine into 4 ohm loads. I have owned a number of different brand amps over the years with similar 8 ohm and 4 ohm ratings, that have workot d just fine into 4 ohm loads, and even sounded more effortless than their "high current" brethren. Tell this guy that SAE is not worth keeping:
http://www.jims-sae-site.com/Main System: Denon DP-59L | Audio-Technica AT33EV | Marantz SA-11S2 | Classe DR-10 | Classe CA-300 | Classe RC-1 | PSB Stratus Gold i's | DIY Balanced AC Power Conditioner | Acoustic Zen and NeoTech cables | Oyaide and Furutech power connectors | Dedicated 20A isolated ground line.
Home Theater: Toshiba D-VR5SU | Laptop #1 |Outlaw Audio OAW3 wireless audio system | Marantz SR-19 | Phase Linear 400 Series 2, modified | AudioSource 10.1 EQ (for subs) | Axiom M3 v3’s | Axiom VP150 | Optimus PRO-X55AVs | Dayton 12” powered subs (x2) | Belkin PureAV PF-60 line conditioner.
Party System: Laptop #2 | Audioquest Dragonfly USB DAC | Technics SU-A6 | Acurus A-250 | Radio Shack 15-band EQ | Pioneer SR-9 reverb | Cerwin Vega DX9's | Dayton 100° x 60° horns with titanium HF/MF compression drivers. -
Does anybody Know why the SAE outputs the same wattage at 4 or 8 ohms, I thought all good amps would be higher at lower impedence?
You can't judge an amp simply by whether or not it output increases into lower impedances. I have owned many current limited amps that have been wonderful performers, even when compared directly to "high current" amps. In one instance, the "current limited" amp sounded more powerful and effortless when pushed hard, than the amp that claimed to double its output into lower impedances, and this was in my home system driving 4-ohm speakers.Main System: Denon DP-59L | Audio-Technica AT33EV | Marantz SA-11S2 | Classe DR-10 | Classe CA-300 | Classe RC-1 | PSB Stratus Gold i's | DIY Balanced AC Power Conditioner | Acoustic Zen and NeoTech cables | Oyaide and Furutech power connectors | Dedicated 20A isolated ground line.
Home Theater: Toshiba D-VR5SU | Laptop #1 |Outlaw Audio OAW3 wireless audio system | Marantz SR-19 | Phase Linear 400 Series 2, modified | AudioSource 10.1 EQ (for subs) | Axiom M3 v3’s | Axiom VP150 | Optimus PRO-X55AVs | Dayton 12” powered subs (x2) | Belkin PureAV PF-60 line conditioner.
Party System: Laptop #2 | Audioquest Dragonfly USB DAC | Technics SU-A6 | Acurus A-250 | Radio Shack 15-band EQ | Pioneer SR-9 reverb | Cerwin Vega DX9's | Dayton 100° x 60° horns with titanium HF/MF compression drivers. -
Glen,
I have an SAE 2922 with the amp outputs burned out. Could I get the contact info for the SAE tech?