Power cord mishegas
bthogan
Posts: 151
I've discussed my power cord adventures before...at this point in my journey, I've been disappointed with a few entry-level high-end aftermarket cords, but still a little dissatisfied with my generic kind-of-heavy-gauge aftermarket cords. The problem in general is that things seem somewhat underpowered with 2 generic 16awg cords on sources (cdp, preamp) and a generic 14awg on my beloved McCormack; however, whenever I put a "serious" cord anywhere in the system - amp, sources - I get a benefit in some ways - more details, more punch - but some big, ultimately unacceptable costs: I generally lose the 3-D soundstage, air between tracks, and delicate textures that the DNA-1 gives me with "lesser" cords.
Is it the components? The cords? Do I just prefer the way my stereo sounds when it's underpowered? I do try to burn these Serious Cords in thoroughly, and give 'em time to settle once they're on the components. I read one professional reviewer talk about using a high-end aftermarket cord on his rig, and feeling that it overpowered his speakers - this seems to be as good an explanation to a layperson like myself as any, but I haven't seen anyone else anywhere mention such a phenomenon ("too much electricity for my speakers!").
After my last frustrating try-out with a Serious Power Cord (On The Lower End Of The Cost Spectrum), I stuck my old (and no doubt most thoroughly burnt-in) 14awg generic cord on the amp, and put two new, generic 14awg cords on the pre and cdp - I at least got a little more detail, and some more control of things that sometimes got a little messy with the 16awg cords. But I still noticed the costs described above, so I compromised, and put the 16awg back on the cdp, but left the 14awg on the pre. Still a little flatter than I wanted, but I liked the control. Told myself, it's a work in progress.
So anyway...the other night, after a couple of months with the 14awg on the pre, I started to notice a real improvement in the soundstage...and tonight, after a few hours of listening, it seems like the 3-D effect is in full force, even better than with the 16awg - the music just pops out, like a pop-up book, but you know, with music...instruments floating in air. Better than ever. Cord's burnt in, I guess. I don't even know if I need to keep going...but of course, I do, right? I mean...a generic 14awg on that DNA-1? That's just wrong, right?
Please kill me.
P.S. I know, I know - interconnects. We'll get there. Please send money.
Is it the components? The cords? Do I just prefer the way my stereo sounds when it's underpowered? I do try to burn these Serious Cords in thoroughly, and give 'em time to settle once they're on the components. I read one professional reviewer talk about using a high-end aftermarket cord on his rig, and feeling that it overpowered his speakers - this seems to be as good an explanation to a layperson like myself as any, but I haven't seen anyone else anywhere mention such a phenomenon ("too much electricity for my speakers!").
After my last frustrating try-out with a Serious Power Cord (On The Lower End Of The Cost Spectrum), I stuck my old (and no doubt most thoroughly burnt-in) 14awg generic cord on the amp, and put two new, generic 14awg cords on the pre and cdp - I at least got a little more detail, and some more control of things that sometimes got a little messy with the 16awg cords. But I still noticed the costs described above, so I compromised, and put the 16awg back on the cdp, but left the 14awg on the pre. Still a little flatter than I wanted, but I liked the control. Told myself, it's a work in progress.
So anyway...the other night, after a couple of months with the 14awg on the pre, I started to notice a real improvement in the soundstage...and tonight, after a few hours of listening, it seems like the 3-D effect is in full force, even better than with the 16awg - the music just pops out, like a pop-up book, but you know, with music...instruments floating in air. Better than ever. Cord's burnt in, I guess. I don't even know if I need to keep going...but of course, I do, right? I mean...a generic 14awg on that DNA-1? That's just wrong, right?
Please kill me.
P.S. I know, I know - interconnects. We'll get there. Please send money.
Marantz CD6004
Adcom GFP-750
McCormack DNA-1
Polk LSi9s
Signal Cable ICs
Blue Jeans cables
Adcom GFP-750
McCormack DNA-1
Polk LSi9s
Signal Cable ICs
Blue Jeans cables
Post edited by bthogan on
Comments
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Cords need to break in, around 100-200 hours before they settle in. Making judgments off the bat isn't doing you any favors. Mention the cords you have tried so far, you didn't say any names, give any price classes. Maybe we can steer you towards the better cords to try out.
In the end, if the standard cord works best with the amp, leave it be. You know that old saying....If it ain't broke, don't fix it.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
tonyb has a point! If it ain't broke don't fix it. There are a few things you should think about BEFORE dropping a lot of coin on a cord though(in MY opinion). 1)-Put your system(s) on dedicated breaker(s)-Mine is on a 20A with 12/2 romex(the house had a 15A with 14/2 romex SHARED with 4 other outlets). 2)-Balancing the load center(breaker panel)-SHOULD have been done when the home was built(BUT probably wasn't-check to see how your breakers are distributed, should be pretty close to even all the way down the panel-look for the amp rating on the breaker). 3)-The receptacles-While I haven't gone this far(money), a hospital grade receptacle is going to be more robust and better built(read more expensive) than whatever was put in when they trimmed out the home(MOST LIKELY). As for the actual cord-I like to tinker a bit. I generally use 12/3 cable(habit), an industrial 15A plug straight to the fuse/switch of the amp. I imagine an IEC connector and nice cord might make some difference, but I personally have yet to try it.Monitor 12's-RDO's and XO's done!
Onkyo TX-SR705 AVR
Adcom GFA-555 for power(being reborn, as I can afford it)
Onkyo DX-C730 changer
Onkyo CP-1057F table W/Grado cartridge
CS300 center
M4's for rears
LG 47" LCD
ROKU streaming gizmo -
Thanks for replies...really just venting. Thought my wanderings might be amusing to folks on a similar journey. System sounds great, especially with the 14awg on the pre and, apparently, now burnt-in. The cords I've used are a Venom 3, a Wireworld Stratus 5.2, and a Pangea AC-9. I wouldn't say any of them are "bad", just didn't give me what I was looking for. They all definitely have a signature. I think I burnt the Venom 3 in pretty thoroughly, although I had to use it with the associated extension cord; I may not have given the Wireworld enough burn-in time (I got a great deal on it from another forum member). The Pangea came closest to giving me more punch and details without sacrificing soundstage and texture; it's also 4 meters long, which unfortunately is another of my needs. I'm cooking that one a little more, to see if I can get any closer to the desired effect.
For various reasons, including funds, I'd like to keep power cord expenses to less than 10% of the cost of a component. That gives me a ceiling of ~$300 for the amp (used price + upgrades). I'm gonna give the Signal Cable Magic Power cord a shot in a month or two, in part because, like the Pangea, it comes in a 4-meter length. Not really comfortable trying DIY. I've also got a few shielded hospital-grade cords - a 16awg and a 14awg; Quail, nothing fancy - that I'm cooking, to try out on the cdp and pre.
I know the wiring in my apartment is crap; I'm definitely considering replacing the amp's outlet. I'm not sure a dedicated line is an option for me.
Like I said, it already sounds great. Just trying to exhaust my options, so I can tell myself I did. It may very well not be broke at this point.Marantz CD6004
Adcom GFP-750
McCormack DNA-1
Polk LSi9s
Signal Cable ICs
Blue Jeans cables -
I know the wiring in my apartment is crap; I'm definitely considering replacing the amp's outlet. I'm not sure a dedicated line is an option for me.
Highly doubt it but, if it is buy a lotto ticket cause you hit the jackpot.... -
All nice cords brother, but let me offer up a possibility to what your hearing. Part of it may be the cords are bringing some clarity to your system. Which in and of itself isn't a bad thing but will show off with also more clarity the weak links or sound of lesser components/cables. Possibly your IC'S. I would stop with the power cords and put your focus there.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
All nice cords brother, but let me offer up a possibility to what your hearing. Part of it may be the cords are bringing some clarity to your system. Which in and of itself isn't a bad thing but will show off with also more clarity the weak links or sound of lesser components/cables. Possibly your IC'S. I would stop with the power cords and put your focus there.
Definitely something I've considered. The McCormack is obviously the heart of the system, and I expect to have it for a while. I'm not really in a position to upgrade sources or speakers at the moment, but I think it's a real possibilty that some time in the future, when I have (for example) better speakers, I'll miss that Venom 3.
Because of funds, the next step will be ICs. Gotta wait a bit, though.Marantz CD6004
Adcom GFP-750
McCormack DNA-1
Polk LSi9s
Signal Cable ICs
Blue Jeans cables -
Do yourself a favor and replace the outlet. It doesn't need to be an expensive one.
If you live in an apartment, the outlet you are using has probably had several arcs, cockroach ****, paint, oxidation, loose grounds or bad connections throughout its lifetime. Perhaps some or all of the aforementioned. Getting a good, clean connection at the outset can really make a difference for the better and at a starting cost of less than 2 dollars and 5 minutes of your time to swap it out, what have you got to lose? FWIW.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
^ think I've heard that before from someone at Polk Fest........
It's on my list to be done soon.2-ch System: Parasound P/LD 2000 pre, Parasound HCA-1000 amp, Parasound T/DQ Tuner, Phase Technology PC-100 Tower speakers, Technics SL-1600 Turntable, Denon 2910 SACD/CD player, Peachtree DAC iT and X1asynchorus USB converter, HSU VTF-3 subwoofer. -
update, sort of: After cooking the Pangea for a bit more, and replacing a generic 16 awg cord with a cooked 14awg Quail shielded cord ($9) on the cd player, there's a noticeable improvement to things - more detail, more 3D soundstage, more punch, without losing the qualities I discuss above. I think I may have cycled through previous cords too quickly...I'll probably give a Signal Cable cord a shot, when funds permit. Then it's interconnect time...Van Den Huls look interesting, and possibly affordable...just can't find a vendor...and of course, Signal.
I know the electricity in my apartment is crappy. Definitely considering some sort of upgrade at the outlet.Marantz CD6004
Adcom GFP-750
McCormack DNA-1
Polk LSi9s
Signal Cable ICs
Blue Jeans cables