Compare RTi10 to RTi8

Joel McIntosh

Have any of you had the chance to actually listen to the differences between an RTi10 and an RTi8? Right now, I have RTi8s as my fronts; however, I could use the Circuit City upgrade policy to get the RTi10s. Everytime people compare these two on this board, they usually just point to the extra mid-range on the RTi8s or they point to the two woofers on the RTi10, but what does that mean for actualy sound quality. The "Lower -3dB Limit" on the 8s is 40Hz, and on the 10s it's 35Hz. That doesn't strike me as all that different. I know ... I know ... I should just go listen to them in the store ... but the Circuit City sound rooms are so crummy that I usually can't get a feel for a speaker there. I would really appreciate some help from those of you who have heard the speakers in action.

Emlyn

Joel,
The only way to be sure is to test the speakers in your home. Circuit City is great for this. You could buy a pair of the RTi10s and test them for up to 30 days. If you don't like them over the RTi8s, take them back for a full refund no questions asked. If you do like them better, do the trade in.

Personally I don't hold with the idea that the "tweeter, midrange, midbass" driver configuration on the RTi8s and RTi70s are inherently superior for all systems to Polk's speakers with the tweeter, midrange, woofer configuration. There are plenty of outstanding speakers out there on the market with nothing but a tweeter and one other driver. Since so much depends on how you'd have your system configured, there is no way to know which you'd prefer without direct observation on your part. Fortunately the RTi10s aren't too heavy. Unfortunately, I haven't heard the RTi10s in the store because the Circuit City near me has only had one of the speakers (not one pair) on display since November. Very strange. They do have them in stock now though.

Joel McIntosh

Thanks for the feedback. Maybe more information would help. This is long. Please bear with me. My situation is a little complicated. Right now I've got a 6.1 set-up using Polk RTi series speakers (fronts RTi8s, center CSi5, surrounds Rti38s, back CSi3). My subwoofer is a Hsu VTF-2. My trouble is that I just got an open-box deal on a Marantz 8300 universal DVD/SACD/ETC player that I love, but it has one big weakness -- it only let's me set my speakers to "Large" when playing SACD and DVD-A. I just don't feel like I'm getting the full advantage of the SACD/DVD-A bass without the RTi8s plus subwoofer combination. For various reasons, I can't use the speaker-level inputs on the VTF-2 and just use it's internal crossover because the VTF-2's speaker lever inputs are too small for 12 gauge speaker wire and too close together for the Monster plugs I've tried to use (yes, I imagine I could rig something with the Monster plugs and electrical tape ... but really ...). So, it seems to me that I need to do one of two things, and I would like to know what you guys think. (1) Buy a Hsu VTF-3 subwoofer ($799) which has inputs that can accommodate the banana plugs and/or 12 gauge wire -- I could then just run the fronts through the VTF-3's speaker level inputs and use the sub's internal crossover (the advantage here is that I would be getting a better subwoofer and would retain the advantage of the RTi8s more expansive mid-range drivers). (2) Trade up my Polk RTi8s for RTi10s (Circuit City trade up = $250). The RTi8s have two 6.5" mid-bass drivers and one tweeter; the RTi10s have one 7" woofer, one 6.5" mid-bass driver, and 1 tweeter. The Rti8 has a -3dB lower limit of 40Hz and the RTi10s have a -3 lower limit of 35Hz. So this latter option would give me a bit more bass and be cheaper than option 1. What do you guys think would be the best way to go with this.

VR3

Dude, i can fit 12 awg in a 22awg hole if I had to....

Take the end of the wire, and break it in half (split the wires in half), then cut one half off and keep cutting till it fits...

PS: I do that ALL the time, it has no signal degrade or anything so...

Joel McIntosh

OK, you guilted me into getting more inventive about wiring the fronts through the sub's speaker-level inputs. After trying some different plugs and using a little electrical tape, I've got it to work -- everything is feeding through the sub's high level in/outs. The bass is much better. Thanks.

VR3

no problem

I love it like that, I set mine up like that and have suggested everyone else to. It is better

Shell

I too would like to know what people think about the RTI8 vs 10's?

I was sold on the LSI15's but cannot find anywhere near to listen to them and from what I have read on the board they are a little flat. I like a little kick in my speaker, not a fatiguing tweeter. Sad part is I live in MD about 40 minutes from Baltimore where Polk audio is stationed. I wonder if they have a demo room for their speakers?

Shell

Thanks ATC,
I was talking about the RTI tweeter being fatiguing as some have said it is a little bright. I have read on here that the LSI is a little flat at the upper end.

So my question:
1) does the RTI 10's have a better overall sound compared to the 8's. I have read the 8's have better midrange response and the 10's have better bass. I would rather have better midrange and let my sub handle the lower end.

2) Or can I brighten the LSI15 (my perfered option). I will be using these speakers for both music and HT.

Thanks

dorokusai

Shell - Silver interconnects and speaker cable have a reputation for being brighter than the copper derivitive counterparts. You may want to try a brand out, perhaps Audioquest. AQ is often fairly inexpensive on the used market. Kimber Kable would be another Silver choice, the KCAG is a very nice interconnect. Those were just a couple off the top of my head.

Shell

dorokusai, thanks for the suggestion.

Telemundo

since we're doing comparison between the 2. I have a living room at a size of about 13x11, with the ceiling about 9-10ft. high. I'll be using the speakers for about 80% movies and 20% music. I'll be sitting about 10-13ft away from the speakers, since that's the optimum seating area away from the 57in. widescreen RPTV. I'll probably be running the speakers with the Yamaha RV1400 ( i think that's what the model is) and using one of the Rotel 2 channel amps to outputs really close to what the RTi10s or RTi8s can handle. I'll end up getting a separate sub also, possibly placing it behind the couch. I want a good amount of impact but not to the point it sounds too boomy. I'll have enough to spare to get some decent room acoustic treatments also. The apartment is fairly new so the windows are soundproofed fairly well. I'll be living on the bottom floor also, so nobody below us. Which one would you guys go with given with my room size and conditions? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated....Thank you.

dorokusai

Telemundo - Oh yea, let me break out my room calculator......

I would go for the RTi10. I chose this idea, due to the fact that you have not stated the Rotel model you will be using for power. That is a somewhat important in speaker decision making. I will bet money that given the proper power, the RTi10 will secure your needs for the time being...."impact" wise.

I also think that given your enviroment, with a larger tower speaker, a subwoofer, may not be an immediate purchase. If you can square the speakers away, think front end, not subwoofer. The subwoofer is the easiest part of the equation.

Acoustic treatments could equal a blanket or a piece of cheap foam, that is something you will have to research. It's your room, you will have to take some measurements and decide whats going on, before any ideas can come from the Polk end.

Telemundo

i'll be using the following Rotel components: 1098 (7.1 pre/pro), 1075 amp (120x5), 1080 (200x2). With either the RTi10s or 8s, dont see a point with going with the RTi12s, too much bass for my room size (13x10x10). Along with CSi5 for center, FXi5s or FXi3s for sides, RTi6 for rears or another pair of the FXis for rears. Havent really decided on which sub yet. Probably either SVS or Velodyne.
What mearsurements were u talking about? I already know the dimensions of the room which i've stated above. I know there is softwares and programs that can calculate exactly how much absorpive or diffuse materials i need and where they should go. The soundproof isnt that big of a issue since the place i'm moving too is fairly new(double panned windows for sure). I've read in magazines that for smaller rooms sizes like mine, the easiest and most efficient way is to put the absorpive materials on the left and right side walls to get rid of the immediate echo from the main speakers. And a good way to do that is have someone else hold a mirror on either side, and from where the seating area is, if u can see the main speaker in the mirror, that should be the closest reflection from the main speakers. That'll get rid of majority of the echo in the room. I'll end up getting some sort of acoustic panels to treat the acoustics of the room.
This is probably the best description to what i'm planning to do, given these conditions, would you still recommend the 10s over the 8s? If you need more details, let me know. Thanks

dorokusai

Yes, RTi10 would still be my recommendation. I would look into DIY acoustic panels, before I would purchase anything in that arena.

You have solid amplification, you will have a very nice setup with either choice. Good luck, and let us know how you fare.

Also think of HSU, if your in that bracket of subwoofer.