can someone answer this

leftwinger57

I've seen most peoples' sigs around here and some own Vandersteens. Doesn't matter what model. When I thought I was on the hunt for a set of audiophile speakers before I came upon my 2Bs Vandy 2ce sigs used was a serious consideration. Now all dealers, Richard Vandersteen himself says getting the anchor stands are a must. He's been designing these speakers since 77 and can't get the right tilt or add adjustable feet or spikes of some kind.Reason given is so the tweeters are timed to arrive at the same time? Polk admitted that they did not pass the tilt test of a certain amount of degrees and had to add that brace w/ the benifit not known at the time of better bass. Here it's not a safety issue or is it ? Also on the higher end models the 2cs and up he says you must bi-wire. No affliation to a wire co. just that it must be bi-wired for a better sound.

Geoff4rfc

So is your question concerning safety or the necessity of using a bi-wire config?

I'm unfamiliar with the Vandersteens other than a pair I got to demo some months back, stellar sound btw. So I can give no feed back on the safety issue.

On the bi-wire, I find it pretty difficult to swallow that any speaker "must" be bi-wired. If you look at it from a logical stand point, what is bi-wiring, sending current from a single power source to two sets of terminals. So, I don't see any difference between using two sets of cables or using a single set with jumpers, either way, the signal is getting to it's destination(s) from a single source.

F1nut

The Vandersteen anchor stands and the Polk bass brace are two entirely different animals.

leftwinger57

Geoff not so much safety but they "are a must" because that tilt just does something to advance the highs. Ok couldn't that something be done w/ something other then sand or lead filled stands so I guess it does lead to a safety issue. I agree when I heard them I thought they were fantastic and great looking for a sock style speaker and reasonably priced for what you get. If someone who has speakers that are bi-wired maybe explain the advantage then understanding the concept would be easier.Yeah, the highs get 2 seperate leads and the lows the same and at the amp end just one pair so how could this make a difference.Jesse yes they are different but in the early stages before release OSHA would not let Polk sell the big sets because they tipped over to easily and was a hazzard. They came up w/ the wall brace which in fact added a tremendous amount of bass punch so I have been told.

gp4jesus

Geoff4rfc wrote: »

On the bi-wire, I find it pretty difficult to swallow that any speaker "must" be bi-wired. If you look at it from a logical stand point, what is bi-wiring, sending current from a single power source to two sets of terminals. So, I don't see any difference between using two sets of cables or using a single set with jumpers, either way, the signal is getting to it's destination(s) from a single source.

I had 2 dual driver 3 ohm DIY subs each connected w/a single run 10' of 10 ga, XO'd @ 80hz. Later, just for fun, I bi-wired them w/a double 5' run of that 10 ga. Imagine my unexpected surprise that I had turn down my now too loud subs because my system CLEARLY sounded unbalanced!
* important: 3 ohm final impedance!

Use your fav 14 or 16ga for the top; 12 or heavier for the bottom.

Enjoy! Tony

F1nut

Ok couldn't that something be done w/ something other then sand or lead filled stands

Sure, they could redesign the speakers. Personally, I think those stands are hideous.

so I guess it does lead to a safety issue.

Definitely not a safety issue.

They came up w/ the wall brace which in fact added a tremendous amount of bass punch so I have been told.

I've tried the brace and spikes. The spikes are better, IMO.

Later, just for fun, I bi-wired them w/a double 5' run of that 10 ga. Imagine my unexpected surprise that I had turn down my now too loud subs because my system CLEARLY sounded unbalanced!

What you did was effectively increase the wire gauge.

gp4jesus

Yyuuuup! Allow me to remind you and anyone that puts little if any stock in how much "size matters:" "Imagine my unexpected surprise that I had turn down my now too loud subs because my system CLEARLY sounded unbalanced!"

Read Isaiah 9:6-7, Luke 2:7-20 & have a merry Christmas! Tony

Geoff4rfc

gp4jesus wrote: »

Yyuuuup! Allow me to remind you and anyone that puts little if any stock in how much "size matters:" "Imagine my unexpected surprise that I had turn down my now too loud subs because my system CLEARLY sounded unbalanced!"

Read Isaiah 9:6-7, Luke 2:7-20 & have a merry Christmas! Tony

Thanks!

I'm just a tad confused as to how you increased your volume by decreasing your resistance. I can see more signal but not more volume.

gp4jesus

Geoff4rfc wrote: »

Thanks!

I'm just a tad confused as to how you increased your volume by decreasing your resistance. I can see more signal but not more volume.

I don't know for sure but here goes:
I believe low impedence speakers (3 ohms) are more sensitive to extremely low impedence wire particularly in the lowest octaves. I reduced the resistance to 25% of its original value.

I do know what my ears told me. See above...

Tony

gp4jesus

Geoff4rfc wrote: »

I'm just a tad confused as to how you increased your volume by decreasing your resistance. I can see more signal but not more volume.

An add'l $.02. Ponder what follows to your heart's content.

Had a similar experience when I rewired my RTi A7s.

Rewired one channel. Set EXO @ 60hz. Fired up my RTA to adjust & tune the L/R output. No surprise to me the rewired speaker's subs EXO output was about 3-5dB lower to achieve L/R balance @ and above "moderately loud."

Further, during listening to some VERY familiar tracks, the rewired channel sounded more percussive. Also, increasing the volume required lowering XO output further to correct L/R balance.

The results, as unexplainable as they seem, speak for themselves. Happy New Year, Geoff. Tony