SRT System
Comments
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PS. I like your new 'signature', certainly is impressive:eek:
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Right ... There's unfortunately from a DIY'er point of view a bit more to it then building a box and tossing in drivers.Originally posted by brody05
I did look at them prior to the project I just finished but from what I understand drivers are tuned to the boxes (or box design) or rather the boxes may be built to match the drivers. There is a company here in New Zealand that can do that as I spoke to them in brief before I decided what course to follow.
I doubt it. At the moment although SVS shows prices for those drivers they also say that they are currently unavailable.
Would SVS supply that kind of information with their drivers?
Oh I know ... I was just day dreaming out loud.
In regards to building cabinets it would be more economical for you to have some built in the US rather than shipping them from NZ.
Even with friendly rates, between those and the cost of the drivers one has probably reached the price point at which SVS sells a lot of their products and although a DIY project like that would be fun, I can't help thinking that it would be virtually impossible to have a finished product with the same sound quality and flat response.
I'm not sure how cost effective it would be without knowing someone that can do 'mates rates' on the build.
Regarding the signature, one of these days I'll have to get some pics up. -
Yes I would love to see some pics of your system.
Although there is a bit more to it than tossing some drivers in a cabinet if you can get your hands on some original drivers like you have all that is left is copying the box and it does sound as good as the original. I can supply you with the cutting list and plans making it a bit easier, the labour would be less in a workshop with all the right equipment at hand as I had to do a lot of mine the hard way such as hand planning the base and shaping feet ect.
You could also save money on paint by using an enamel or such as the two pot metallic and undercoat is very expensive in comparison.
It really depends on what your going for, it sounds as though you want something different to what you currently have in regards to size of drivers but beleive me when I say it is great having identicle stereo bass in the rear. I am not sure if I mentioned already but my cousin in NZ is also an owner of the SRTs and we flatted togeather for a while combining systems with SRTs front and rear, wow - amazing doesn't come close to describing but it is something I will never forget (nor my poor old ears).
Brody -
I'd say that out of a project like this I'd want something better as opposed necessarily different ... It's really too bad that the originals didn't have 12" or better drivers in them as there are better choices in 12" and beyond but there's no way one is getting larger drivers in the same box.
I wouldn't say I have a great workshop but I probably have more than the necessary tools to make the box i.e. table saws, routers etc. with the possible exception of the flared port and the shaping of the feet and the base ... how did you go about that detail or is that part just purchased and installed ?
If you have a parts & cutting list and plans I'd love to have them ... These might be able to be extrapolated to produce a 2-5" wider box that would accomodate different drivers as well. -
I used different size hole saws to cut out rounds and glued them together, ie 55ml bottom, 50ml next up, 45ml next up and 40 ml after that, the rest I did by putting a screw driver through the center holes and shaped them a bit on a belt sander, glued and srcewed then onto the base and used auto/car bog to cove (half rounds) onto the base, same for the flared port but bigger holesaw on bottom and middle. The last thing I did was put a 130ml bolt through the base, feet and into the cabinet. I have taken photos and once film developed can post them.
Cutting list; (in 18 ml)
Sides = 2 @ 675 x 505
top and bottom = 2 @ 269 x 505
front, back and middle upright 3 @ 269 x 639
base 3 @ 505 x 305 (screwed together and 25ml curve planned into it)
large cylynder for port is 175ml diameter and 175ml protruding into cabinet, smaller central cylynder was 50ml diameter and 650ml long (onto flared port)
30ml strips for attaching back on 2 @ 639 x 30 and 2 @ 209 x 30
I used 8 guage 2" screws for assembly and 6 gauge 1" for **** drivers into place.
Other parts are Speaker cable, spade plugs and bolts
The sides are outside of the top and bottom and the front and back are inbetween top and bottom, the inside upright that has drivers mounted in it is positioned 310ml back from the inside of front. The drivers cutout hole is 115 ml apart in the center and there is a 15ml rebate (4ml deep) for countersinking into board.
Hope this is understandable
Brody
