If you could pick other speakers...........
Comments
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Magnepan 3.3s. forgot about them, very nice and well out of my price range.
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I have a few non-Polk speakers that I rotate in from time to time including Maggie MMGs, ZU Omens, and DCM Timewindow 3s. I always come back to the SRS 2s and LSiM 703s (depending on which system). The others all do things extremely well, but none of them sound as good with a variety of different music as well as the SRSs and LSiMs.
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Now those are expensive tweets!I'll basically be converting mine into an MD1 hybrid once I'm able to afford the DMD tweeters and the following crossover rebuild.2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2 -
I love my three pairs of Polks, Model 10's 2a's and SRS2 all upgraded and do sound awesome. However they can't compete with the Sonus Faber Grand Piano Domus I bought a few years back.
I paid around $3,000 for the pair of SF's and $500. for the SRS2's and have maybe another $500. in upgrades so for about a grand they are a great deal. -
My 2.3TL's are so entertaining I don't have the desire to try/own anything else. They still amaze me with their soundstage, detail, smoothness, etc. They simply disappear and make sweet, glorious music :loneranger:"Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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Other than Polks?...Genesis 1.1's......in my dreams of course!!!
The guy I bought my SRS from several years back..... I asked him why he was selling this awesome pair of speakers that he had described as being one of his dreams and had all these plans to restore/ mod them. Turns out he had found a set of these for sale on CL from a church who had just bought them from a thrift store with amplifiers etc to use at the church. They didn't work out so the church sold them for a little less than they had paid. he got them along with amplification for $300. So he didn't need the SRS anymore. I considered it my lucky day, but his was luckier than mine.If con is the opposite of pro, is Congress the opposite of Progress?!
Monitor 5Jr, Monitor 5, RTA12, RTA 15TL, SDA 2A, 1c, SRS 2, 1.2TL, CRS, Atrium. -
I always wanted to check out the real Genesis line, but never seen any around here. As far as the 2.3tl's, I just don't know if it really is a smart move, financially, to invest a ton of cash into the upgrades. I do have the blank gimpod boards, but that would cost a pretty penny to stuff them boards with good components. I do have an "upgraded" A1 cable to use with uncommon ground amps. I did put all hurricane nuts with allen head screws for all the drivers. Don't get me wrong, I like the speakers, but I have had some that I like just a little more.....as mentioned above. The SDA effect isn't everything that matters.Jeff
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1.1's for three bills complete? Man that church took a bath on that deal...don't know if my scruples would have let me take advantage of that...I would have offered 350! LMAO!
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I always wanted to check out the real Genesis line, but never seen any around here. As far as the 2.3tl's, I just don't know if it really is a smart move, financially, to invest a ton of cash into the upgrades. I do have the blank gimpod boards, but that would cost a pretty penny to stuff them boards with good components. I do have an "upgraded" A1 cable to use with uncommon ground amps. I did put all hurricane nuts with allen head screws for all the drivers. Don't get me wrong, I like the speakers, but I have had some that I like just a little more.....as mentioned above. The SDA effect isn't everything that matters.
These speakers are not only about the SDA effect. They have enormous potential that's largely untapped in stock form. Rather than me describing the improvements the various mods make, you should get your ears on a fully modded pair. Totally different speaker from stock."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
As far as the 2.3tl's, I just don't know if it really is a smart move, financially, to invest a ton of cash into the upgrades.
Sorry but that is just silly talk.....get real dude -
I can see where Musky is coming from. Financially speaking in relation to re-sale value it may not make sense for everyone. I have done a good bit of mods to my SRS's and some to my others but if a person doesn't plan on keeping them till their end one could easily spend more on mods than they could come close to recouping.
As dman pointed out however, they do have tremendous untapped potential in stock form. some of this due to hitting a price point at the time of design and some due to the improvements in technology in both cabinet and crossover design. Especially the latter, since these were designed.
great speakers and definitely worth modding. to what extent would be determined by the value of the speakers to the individual. resale value being key to many people, I guess. I mean even if you were to get a pair of 1.2 TL's for free and fully modded them with top of the line components, you would still lose money at resale. i think i will keep my 2A's forever and plan to one day fully mod them with the best components. The SRS and 1.2 TL's I am not so sure about. I am growing older and out of stroking my ego with things that are simply bad ****. The 2A's are more pleasing to my ears. I can easily spend many times more than their market value on them but then I have no plans of letting them go. Any such mods that improve what they already have would be money well spent. i can't truly say the same for other models, but there are still some inexpensive mods to be performed on most speakers that will increase the pleasure of the listener that will not break the bank. i guess i can see both sides.If con is the opposite of pro, is Congress the opposite of Progress?!
Monitor 5Jr, Monitor 5, RTA12, RTA 15TL, SDA 2A, 1c, SRS 2, 1.2TL, CRS, Atrium. -
Sorry but that is just silly talk.....get real dude
Yeah, I'm getting "real" dude. $900 to have x-overs done right, $300 +/- for the dreadnought, $500 for updated mid-woofs, etc. That looks like it is approaching $2K in upgrades, plus what I paid for the stock speakers alone. Lets do the math now...........Jeff -
I would do the XO's that is money well spent IMHO. What is wrong with MW's? I spent over 600$ for my upgrades + the 200.00 for the speakers themselves. I do not plan on getting rid of them but mine are also not a desirable SDA speaker(SDA1 Signature) so if it did that for mine I know it would be at least 3fold better for yours. You know your expenses better than I, BUT just doing the XO will make them better than new and you will be amazed at what you were missing in your music. By the way just poking fun at you is all no disrespect intended.Yeah, I'm getting "real" dude. $900 to have x-overs done right, $300 +/- for the dreadnought, $500 for updated mid-woofs, etc. That looks like it is approaching $2K in upgrades, plus what I paid for the stock speakers alone. Lets do the math now........... -
Yeah, I'm getting "real" dude. $900 to have x-overs done right, $300 +/- for the dreadnought, $500 for updated mid-woofs, etc. That looks like it is approaching $2K in upgrades, plus what I paid for the stock speakers alone. Lets do the math now...........
You don't need to spend this kind of money to get good results. Do the crossovers with Dayton Audio Film caps, I wouldn't do the dreadnought unless you need it, and your mid woofers are fine unless they don't work at all; $20 in Dynamat will update all of them. Being that a pair of SDAs can be 30 years old, a little update money goes a long way in improving/updating the sound. -
Heavily modded 2.3tl's might just be your last speaker if you thoroughly enjoy them in stock form. You owe it to yourself to try and find some modded ones semi-local so you can experience the difference those mods make.
Sometimes you roll the dice and take a chance, and for me it worked out. I have no need to keep searching, I've found my keeper speakers. There's another way to look at, too:
add the cost of the speakers to the cost of the mods, subtract what you think you could sell them for and divide that by the number of years of enjoyment you (expect to) get from them. Amortization - that's the real cost of ownership.
Would I pay 50-$150/year to listen to great speakers? Absolutely. :cool:
Why do you need to replace the MW's? Never heard of anyone doing that unless they're defective/broken."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
You don't need to spend this kind of money to get good results. Do the crossovers with Dayton Audio Film caps, I wouldn't do the dreadnought unless you need it, and your mid woofers are fine unless they don't work at all; $20 in Dynamat will update all of them. Being that a pair of SDAs can be 30 years old, a little update money goes a long way in improving/updating the sound.
Exactly what I was trying to say but struggle to relay my thoughts in writing :redface:
I will sell my SFGPD one day but will never sell my Polks :cool: -
Yeah, I'm getting "real" dude. $900 to have x-overs done right, $300 +/- for the dreadnought, $500 for updated mid-woofs, etc. That looks like it is approaching $2K in upgrades, plus what I paid for the stock speakers alone. Lets do the math now...........
Sonicap caps and Mills resistors would run a bit over $300.00.
The Dreadnaught you have priced right.
Updated woofers are not needed or available.
I paid a bit over a grand for my 2.3TL's many years ago and have put at least that into them. Worth every penny and then some.
You really have no idea what you're missing.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Thanks. I meant the tweeters, not the mids. I will think about the x-overs now.Jeff
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As Patrick said so many times in the movie, "Ghost".....Ditto.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
I paid a bit over a grand for my 2.3TL's many years ago and have put at least that into them. Worth every penny and then some.
You really have no idea what you're missing.
^^^This^^^
Or with a smaller room go 3.1tl's.Main Rig-Realistic AM/FM Record player 8 track boasting 4 WPC
Backup Rig-2 CH-Rogue Audio Zeus w/Factory Special Dark Mods,Joule-Electra 300ME Platinum Preamp,OPPO-105 w/Modwright Tube Mod, Auralic Aries G2.1,Polk 2.3TL,3.1TL's,Dreadnought,RTA-15TL's,1C's All Fully Modded,2xRTA-12c's ,Benchmark DAC3 HGC,Synology NAS,VPI Scout w/Dynavector DV-20XH and Rogue Audio Ares Phono Preamp,Sony PCM-R500 DAT,HHB-850 Pro CDR,Tascam CC-222SLMKII Cassette/CDR,MIT S3.3 Shotgun Cables,Shunyata Hyra-8,Shunyata and Triode Labs Power Cords
I’M OFFENDED!!!! -
I'm perfectly happy with my SL2000s right now having owned RD0 tweeters in two different SDAs. The SDAs are great sounding speakers in many different configurations, and will improve in sound quality whether you put a little or a lot of money into them. Don't think that you have to put a lot of money into them to enjoy the music.
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ReportedNarutosumo wrote: »Visit this site...spam spam spammity-spam -
Sonicap caps and Mills resistors would run a bit over $300.00.
The Dreadnaught you have priced right.
Updated woofers are not needed or available.
I paid a bit over a grand for my 2.3TL's many years ago and have put at least that into them. Worth every penny and then some.
You really have no idea what you're missing.
My investment in my 2.3TL's is about the same. The only mods I have left to do are building a new wiring harness, and switching the Xovers to Gimpods boards."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
Okay, I am going to give it a go.....with the x-overs for now. As mentioned earlier, I have the gimpod boards already. If someone can give me a list of what exactly I will need and from where.......that would help a ton! Either pm or post it here. I have to see "what I have been missing"
Jeff -
Atta boy!
If you can read schematics go to the sticky for SDA's at the top part of this forum and pull up the one for 2.3TL in post #5.
All the cap and resistor values are listed there. However, when using high quality film caps you can eliminate the 750 pf caps, as they were only there to improve the sound of the cheap electrolytics Polk used.
If you use quality amplification and don't over drive it, you can replace the polyswitch (called a safetyguard in the schematic) with a resistor. The polyswitches degrade the high frequencies a little. The value of the resistor is up to you: a lower value resistor = hotter high end, a higher value one = more subdued high end. I and many others used a 0.5 ohm 12 watt, and am happy with the tonal balance. Use that as your starting point.
I also used Sonicap generation 1 caps which can be found here: http://www.soniccraft.com/. They also have the Mills resistors in the values you need.
Clarity Caps are an alternative that some members think highly of. There are also cheaper alternatives from places like parts express. I would say quality = price, you get what you pay for.
Feel free to post questions, lots of knowledgeable folks here to help out. Pics are good too!"Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
Thanks! That helps, but I am not a good schematic guy. I guess that is why these boards haven't been done. Need some side work . Jeff
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Merlin VSM-MXe loudspeakers
Retail: $11,500 per pair with Super-BAM
Because I am The Pumpkinking
A Kind Word Is An Easy Gift To Give -
You don't need to spend this kind of money to get good results. Do the crossovers with Dayton Audio Film caps, I wouldn't do the dreadnought unless you need it, and your mid woofers are fine unless they don't work at all; $20 in Dynamat will update all of them. Being that a pair of SDAs can be 30 years old, a little update money goes a long way in improving/updating the sound.
Jake, no offence: but I would very strongly recommend that you use higher quality caps to do your crossovers. Since you only have to do them every 15 to 20 years, it's not like spending a lot of money on them is going to make you go broke. The sound quality on the other hand will be around for that 15 to 20 years. Definately consider this Jake. I recommend Mills at the minimum for resistors and Duelund Cast resistors at the "high end".
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."![:\](https://forum.polkaudio.com/resources/emoji/confused.png ":\")
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
Okay, I am going to give it a go.....with the x-overs for now. As mentioned earlier, I have the gimpod boards already. If someone can give me a list of what exactly I will need and from where.......that would help a ton! Either pm or post it here. I have to see "what I have been missing"
Jeff,
My recommendation (after having SDA's with Sonicaps and Mills and Clarity Cap ESA's and Duelund Resistors) is that you go the Clarity Cap ESA's and Duelund Cast resistors route. IMO they have better imaging, detail and clarity than Sonicaps and Mills. They are not as "warm" sounding as Sonicaps/Mills though so keep that in mind in your decision. Not that Clarity Cap ESA's/Duelund Cast resistors are not slightly warm and I wouldn't consider them overly analytical or harsh by any means. they are just not as warm as Sonciaps/Mills. Either way you go you will love the upgrades. I just believe you will love one more than the other. You can get Clarity Cap ESA's adn Duelund Cast resistors from Trey (here on the forum) at www.VR3mods.com.
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
For my SRS 2s, I'm starting with Mundorf MOX resistors and Erse Pulse-X caps. I may rework the HF crossover later, but I do like the Mundorf resistors over the Mills, and the Erse film caps will work great long term for the LF crossover. I'm still not sure what HF caps I'd ultimately like, so I just got all Erse film as a solid start. I do like the ClarityCap MRs in my Dodd preamp...
