Bi-amping question
rmaiers
Posts: 145
Is it possible to split the preamplifier outputs to drive to separate power amplifiers?
I am using a Nikko NR-1019 as a preamplifier for an Adcom GF-1 amplifier. I was thinking of splitting the signal and using the Nikko amplifier to drive a subwoofer.
I am using a Nikko NR-1019 as a preamplifier for an Adcom GF-1 amplifier. I was thinking of splitting the signal and using the Nikko amplifier to drive a subwoofer.
Post edited by rmaiers on
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Yes you can.Main Surround -
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Are you planning on doing it with an RCA cable Y splitter?
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Yes. Is that a problem?
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Is it possible to split the preamplifier outputs to drive to separate power amplifiers?
I am using a Nikko NR-1019 as a preamplifier for an Adcom GF-1 amplifier. I was thinking of splitting the signal and using the Nikko amplifier to drive a subwoofer.
What you seem to be looking to do is drive a subwoofer where there is no sub output available. You can't just split the Nikko preout signal then combine the two channels at the end of one "Y" adapter to drive the sub. That will create all kinds of loading and channel summing problems with just Y adapters alone feeding the Adcom and subwoofer inputs.
I strongly suggest a device like the Rolls SX45 active crossover ($76 at Parts Express), which has a dedicated sub output that will drive your subwoofer. You can use Y adapters to feed the Adcom and Rolls inputs. Plug the subwoofer into the Rolls unit sub out. The Rolls unit will present a high enough input impedance to the Nikko preouts so as not to cause loading problems and summing of the signal seen by the Adcom.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=245-1184
Main System: Denon DP-59L | Audio-Technica AT33EV | Marantz SA-11S2 | Classe DR-10 | Classe CA-300 | Classe RC-1 | PSB Stratus Gold i's | DIY Balanced AC Power Conditioner | Acoustic Zen and NeoTech cables | Oyaide and Furutech power connectors | Dedicated 20A isolated ground line.
Home Theater: Toshiba D-VR5SU | Laptop #1 |Outlaw Audio OAW3 wireless audio system | Marantz SR-19 | Phase Linear 400 Series 2, modified | AudioSource 10.1 EQ (for subs) | Axiom M3 v3’s | Axiom VP150 | Optimus PRO-X55AVs | Dayton 12” powered subs (x2) | Belkin PureAV PF-60 line conditioner.
Party System: Laptop #2 | Audioquest Dragonfly USB DAC | Technics SU-A6 | Acurus A-250 | Radio Shack 15-band EQ | Pioneer SR-9 reverb | Cerwin Vega DX9's | Dayton 100° x 60° horns with titanium HF/MF compression drivers. -
Thanks Glen B! I tried just splitting the preout with a Y RCA splitter and it didn't work. Luckily it didn't seem to hurt anything.
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The following wiring configuration should work. I have an Adcom GFA-1 too BTW I'm currently using it in my party system, to drive tweeter/midrange cabs. It is a great sounding amp and fantastic bargain that is at home in any system.
Main System: Denon DP-59L | Audio-Technica AT33EV | Marantz SA-11S2 | Classe DR-10 | Classe CA-300 | Classe RC-1 | PSB Stratus Gold i's | DIY Balanced AC Power Conditioner | Acoustic Zen and NeoTech cables | Oyaide and Furutech power connectors | Dedicated 20A isolated ground line.
Home Theater: Toshiba D-VR5SU | Laptop #1 |Outlaw Audio OAW3 wireless audio system | Marantz SR-19 | Phase Linear 400 Series 2, modified | AudioSource 10.1 EQ (for subs) | Axiom M3 v3’s | Axiom VP150 | Optimus PRO-X55AVs | Dayton 12” powered subs (x2) | Belkin PureAV PF-60 line conditioner.
Party System: Laptop #2 | Audioquest Dragonfly USB DAC | Technics SU-A6 | Acurus A-250 | Radio Shack 15-band EQ | Pioneer SR-9 reverb | Cerwin Vega DX9's | Dayton 100° x 60° horns with titanium HF/MF compression drivers. -
Parts Express was sold out but I got one for $72.00 free shipping. Thanks again for the good advice!
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