anybody modding rt3000p bottoms

pietsch288

I have to repair both of my 3000 bottoms (amps) because of distortion (I assume caps). Is there any xo mods worth doing as long as I'm getting them fixed anyway. Or because there essentially subs will it not make any audible difference anyway.

pietsch288

Apparently not??? LOL

F1nut

Do you have a schematic?

WLDock

As stated in the other post, the power supply large caps are known to go bad. Some of these had questionable parts that went bad early. Most that have never been replaced will need to be replaced today given the age of these amps. So, putting new caps in...maybe good one like Panasonic, etc...is a mod in a way.

These are amps have a nice amout of class A/B power with a pretty decent crossover...not sure what more one can get out of them?
As stated in the other thread...it you are looking for more...than maybe consider using a different amp and maybe an EQ? You figure it will cost at least $200-$250/shipped to repair them. Can get something like the Behringer NU1000DSP iNUKE w/built in DSP for the same amount.

rtart

There was a guy on eBay repairing them for $175 a while ago. May still be there. There was some discussion about it on this forum somewhere.

Polk also does the repair if they have the parts.

I bought a spare amp and a spare pair of sub drivers about a year ago. Once one of my 'in-service' amps fail I'll know more.....

WLDock

Nice system there rtart...looks like a heavy hitter!

pietsch288

As stated in the other post, the power supply large caps are known to go bad. Some of these had questionable parts that went bad early. Most that have never been replaced will need to be replaced today given the age of these amps. So, putting new caps in...maybe good one like Panasonic, etc...is a mod in a way.

I guess thats my question....so the Panasonic would be an upgrade? Or because of the range of a these midbass subwoofers is there no point in worrying about upgrading caps ect.

These are amps have a nice amout of class A/B power with a pretty decent crossover...not sure what more one can get out of them?

Ok, sounds good.

As stated in the other thread...it you are looking for more...than maybe consider using a different amp and maybe an EQ? You figure it will cost at least $200-$250/shipped to repair them. Can get something like the Behringer NU1000DSP iNUKE w/built in DSP for the same amount.

I actually really like what Polk is doing sound wise with these....I was just wondering because everybody seems to be doing xo mods on mids and tweets these days, just trying to stay on top of things.

I am using a ep2500 on my CS ultras and I wish they were the PC ultras....I really feel like there is more to a good subwoofer than just amplification or DSP. Polk-svs-velodyne ect, are creating a certain sound or effect with xo networks and amplification that can't be copied with out the amp they designed for that sub. I realize this is an opinion.....but I have a good friend that has 2 pc ultras and they sound way different than my cs ultras (he let me borrow them for a couple of weeks). I A-B'd them in my room and I easily preferred the pc ultras, the cs ultras work--but they aren't the same. rich

pietsch288

I couldn't get the quote thingie's to work sorry

pietsch288

I forgot about the O Audio 500w bash amp.....I see they no longer make them.... Is there a replacement? I could probably use these with my ultras instead of the behringer, or Maybe I should just need to boost 15hz a little. Looks like that's what the subsonic filter is doing anyway. I love to hate this hobby :frown: rich

WLDock

- I read that some of the early caps were low quality and failed prematurely. Putting new caps in and getting the power supply back to where it should be will make a difference.

-As far as crossover mods....Guys are doing this to replace the cheap passive OEM components . For subs, more efficient power and EQ/correction is about the best one can do short of a better sub system swap out with a modern sub driver....see below:

-As far as the PC Ultras...they are using a very high excursion low distortion sub driver. Then, they feed it with about as much efficient power as it can handle with DSP to control the output at all levels. They did their homework and improved everything!

-O Audio is out of business. But BASH plate amps and Class D plate amps can be purchased at Part Express for example: http://www.parts-express.com/cat/subwoofer-plate-amplifiers/332 However, you might as well just get a powerful stereo rack amp as two plate amps will cost more, won't fit in the cabinets without a custom plate, will need a enclosure if you plan to not mount them in the cabinet.

rtart

WLDock wrote: »

Nice system there rtart...looks like a heavy hitter!

Thanks. I've been through all of the tri-lam combinations of gear to get here. Thinking about a Danley DTS-10 or 20 to replace the pair of SVS PB/12-Plus-2's. Danley is located a few miles away from me, so I could visit them in person and ask for advice. I think I can fit it behind my screen wall and free up a little floor space. My CS1000p is already behind the screen to allow better voice imaging.

Like I need more bass!?! My wife already complains about the earthquake when I run sub freq sweeps.

pietsch288

hey rtart, How do you like the screen. I was thinking about doing a DIY transparent screen to get the center behind there as well. Did it make a huge diff (or not that big) with the cs1000p as far as dynamics and centering the dialogue (the cs1000 has a huge sound stage anyway but I can still tell its up there)? Have you tried replacing the cs1000p with a rt3000p so that the front 3 speakers are the exact same?? Thought you'd be the perfect guy to ask because we have the same speakers.
I did try using a 3000 top but the speaker is just too close to the ceiling making it sound weird even with acoustic panels (speakers need to breathe) but I would think a complete 3000p behind the screen would sound better than a cs1000p. rich

rtart

Hi pietsch,

Before the current screen I had a Stewart M1300 1.3 gain 4:3 screen. Width was the same as the one I have now, except the current one is 16:9. I wanted to try an AT screen because of the inherent issue of the dialog coming from either above or below the screen. While I didn't really mind the center mounted below or above, once I had the AT screen in place I wondered how I ever was able to stand it. Voices now actually come from the lips of the actors! I was surprised by my reaction. My motivation in upgrading screens was to go from 4:3 to 16:9, and I went with AT since I found a good deal on the screen. Should have done it long before.

Ref your question about using a RT3000p instead of the CS1000p. I tried both in my setup and found I preferred the CS1000p. A couple of reasons: the sub from the RT3000p reproduced bass in a more full range fashion, but some of the higher freq bass seemed to emanate from the bottom of the screen. The CS1000p does not dig as deep, but all the sound seems to be coming from the same place. Bass that is over 120Hz or thereabouts can be directional, and that's what I think this happens. Adjusting the crossover in my preamp made this go away, but at the expense of bass reproduction from the center speaker.

I also tried a CS400, and a upper satellite from the RT3000p as well. I still prefer the CS1000p if the crossover and sub amp setting s are set properly.

The CS1000p is voice matched to the mids and tweets in the RT3000p's and FX1000's, and has the same drivers as my RT35 height speakers as well.

In summary, putting the CS1000p behind the screen is certainly worth the effort, IMO. don't know if I'd do the same to the mains, though, since they are now set wider that the screen width would allow. There's a lot on the subject over at AVSForum if you're interested. I haven't looked in a while, but seems like the AT fabric can be had fairly inexpensively.

pietsch288

avs is where I got the idea to remove some of the sheetrock from the center of my current screen and wrap the whole thing in fabric and,,,,,whalaa, Done deal. At least is sounds easy.
I have a set of f/x1000 but I preferred the 3000 sat are you running those bi or di?
I agree that the mains need to be beside the screen not behind (unless the whole front wall is the screen), seems like the movies are designed that way, what I see and what I hear seems correct when the speakers are tight to or within a few inches of the screen. A foot or more away just doesn't seem right either. rich

rtart

I use the FX1000's a side surrounds and an extra pair of RT3000p sats as rear surrounds. Seems like I run the FX's in dipole mode. I'd have to pull the heavy things down to check.

Eocuph

rtart wrote: »

There was a guy on eBay repairing them for $175 a while ago. May still be there. There was some discussion about it on this forum somewhere.

Polk also does the repair if they have the parts.

I bought a spare amp and a spare pair of sub drivers about a year ago. Once one of my 'in-service' amps fail I'll know more.....

He charges $140 to fix it. Does anyone know if he does a good job? I have 3 rt3000p amplifiers that need to be fixed and I'm debating whether I should go to him.

WLDock

I've heard some mixed reviews about his work. But, I'm close and could drop mine off. I was quoted $125. I have two that are in bad shape and one that might not be repairable. I tried fixing them but got stuck...I think one has a bad/craked board and the other needs a bias adjustment?

cincycat13

Eocuph wrote: »

He charges $140 to fix it. Does anyone know if he does a good job? I have 3 rt3000p amplifiers that need to be fixed oand I'm debating whether I should go to him.

Did you already talk with Polk? I had 2 rt3000 amps serviced last summer by them.

Eocuph

I haven't talked to polk yet. I had an amplifier stop working properly after a pg&e high voltage issue in the neighborhood. And just a couple of days ago, I went on a road trip to pick up a complete rt5000p system but the powered subwoofers have a humming sound when plugged in. But you're right, I will talk to polk about getting them fixed. I didn't realize they still service them. I also have at least one subwoofer that is blown out, so it may be a while before I have everything installed and working.