What type of surge protection for AMP's?
chiptouz
Posts: 152
All I have the Monster HTS 3600 for almost all of my components. I am concerned if I should hook up an Emotiva XPA-5 to this and think that I shouldn't. How do we protect this kind of equipment that draws so much power? What do you all use to protect your amplifiers and other equipment from surges?
Thanks,
Chip
Thanks,
Chip
Sharp LC-80uq17u
Denon 4520ci Receiver
OPPO BDP-203 Blu-Ray Disc Player
Monster HTS 3600
Polk RTi-a7 (fronts)
Polk CSi-a6 (Center)
Polk TC-60i (Rear & Surround Rear)
HSU Research VTF3-MK4 (Sub)
Logitech Harmony elite (Remote)
Denon 4520ci Receiver
OPPO BDP-203 Blu-Ray Disc Player
Monster HTS 3600
Polk RTi-a7 (fronts)
Polk CSi-a6 (Center)
Polk TC-60i (Rear & Surround Rear)
HSU Research VTF3-MK4 (Sub)
Logitech Harmony elite (Remote)
Post edited by chiptouz on
Comments
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LOL.
See http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?151332-Broke-my-Triton-power-conditioner-last-nightLumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
First - the surge protector should be a whole house unit at the electrical service entrance of the home (main breaker box).
Second - a point of use surge protector only looks at the incoming voltage, it doesn't care about the load level. -
Plug it straight into the wall. The usual power conditioners, consumer grade, have a certain current limiting factor to them which then begs to question why you would limit current to an amp. Higher end conditioners are better and non current limiting but cost some coin over what you have now.
Whole house units is probably the ticket but again, aren't cheap.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
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Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
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Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
Speedskater wrote: »First - the surge protector should be a whole house unit at the electrical service entrance of the home (main breaker box).
Second - a point of use surge protector only looks at the incoming voltage, it doesn't care about the load level.
To what SS said here. Last week I installed 2 dedicated 20 amp breakers with 2 Leviton 5380-W 20 amp surge protected wall plugs for in house surges and a SyCom-120/240-T2 whole house protector, good for 100,000 amps for outside surges like lighting/utility company errors. All are available at Amazon, the 2 wall plugs are around $33 each, the SyCom is around $76. The install for the SyCom I found to be quite easy as a DIY project if you're comfortable with such things. Anyway, just another idea for you. -
I guess I just don't get it. I have a little better than normal power strip & I turn it off when I'm done listening. All my electronics are connected similar, TV/ surround, stereo set up & PD/ printer/router....all on power strips& turned off when not in service. I like the idea of whole house or entire circuit protection tho. I'm assuming this is different from a GFI.
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The transformer in your amp will deal with power surges, so just plug into the wall. Power strips using MOV's (almost all power strips use MOV's) are crap for surge protection anyway. One good spike and it becomes a throw away item.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Bob, the power strip surge protector, protects against high voltage spikes on the AC line.
A GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) monitors how much current is flowing out the Hot wire and how much current is returning on the Neutral wire. If these two values are not almost exactly the same, it means that current is going someplace that it should not go and the GFCI turns the circuit off.