What does everyone use to 'Glue' speaker magnets ?

Adam Czepiel
Adam Czepiel Posts: 46
edited August 2013 in Vintage Speakers
I do have some JB weld in stock..

Gorilla glue ?
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Post edited by Adam Czepiel on

Comments

  • jon s
    jon s Posts: 905
    edited August 2013
    gorilla glue expands when it dries, not a good idea...
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,442
    edited August 2013
    most use JB weld others have used 2 part epoxy putty with good results
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited August 2013
    Harborfreights' cheap 2-part epoxy.

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  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,101
    edited August 2013
    JB Weld is adequate but nothing special. The chief attribute is that it's readily available.

    When I took the magnet off, cleaned it, and reassembled the driver, I used a generic equivalent to Loctite 271 red anerobic high-strength thread locker. Available at any auto parts store.

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?135716-Let-s-Try-to-Fix-a-MW6511-Damaged-in-Shipping...&p=1878797&viewfull=1#post1878797

    Polk_Magnet_03.jpg
  • bored184
    bored184 Posts: 324
    edited August 2013
    I've always had good luck with JB Weld but the next go around I want to try Red Loctite
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,557
    edited August 2013
    Do not use Gorilla glue......for anything.
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  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited August 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    Do not use Gorilla glue......for anything.
    Except on Gorillas themselves. :cheesygrin:

    Funny Gorilla Glue.jpg

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  • TennMan
    TennMan Posts: 1,266
    edited August 2013
    bored184 wrote: »
    I've always had good luck with JB Weld but the next go around I want to try Red Loctite
    I think Red Loctite would be a poor choice to secure the magnets. It only cures in the absence of air. I doubt it would get very hard if applied to the outside edges of the magnet the way it is done with JB-Weld.
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  • TennMan
    TennMan Posts: 1,266
    edited August 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    Do not use Gorilla glue......for anything.
    I agree. I've found it to be a gooey, tacky mess that hardy will hold it's on weight for very long. Maybe other people have better luck with it.
    • SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
    • Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    • Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    • Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    • Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    • SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,442
    edited August 2013
    TennMan wrote: »
    I think Red Loctite would be a poor choice to secure the magnets. It only cures in the absence of air. I doubt it would get very hard if applied to the outside edges of the magnet the way it is done with JB-Weld.

    that same thought crossed my mind....
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited August 2013
    I've used JB Weld, 10 Minute epoxy, and while they are excellent, I now use Loctite Power Grab Acrylic. It's easy to apply, clean-up with a damp rag, dries clear, and contains no silicone. Also works extremely well for re-sealing cabinet interiors.
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  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,101
    edited August 2013
    TennMan wrote: »
    I think Red Loctite would be a poor choice to secure the magnets. It only cures in the absence of air. I doubt it would get very hard if applied to the outside edges of the magnet the way it is done with JB-Weld.

    Note the photo included with the suggestion for Red Loctite (271, or equivalent)

    This product is not used to reinforce the existing bond. It is used to REPLACE the existing bond, after total disassembly of the magnet and pole piece, and cleaning off the previous (failed) adhesive.
  • 84shovelhead
    84shovelhead Posts: 23
    edited August 2013
    I think it was Loctite brand one minute epoxy used it so I wouldn't have to disconnect speakers This stuff dries VERY quickly and prolly ha senough strength to do the job just applied it at the joints at even intervals around the perimeters
  • PolkMaster1
    PolkMaster1 Posts: 847
    edited August 2013
    TennMan wrote: »
    I agree. I've found it to be a gooey, tacky mess that hardy will hold it's on weight for very long. Maybe other people have better luck with it.

    For one of my speaker projects where I had to add additional wood bracing inside the speaker cabinet to hold a Solen 14mH inductor, I started with Elmers Carpenter Glue, then when that ran out (I needed more than I anticipated the project would need), I used Gorilla Glue to finish the project. That was a year ago, and everything is holding out very well. I would say 75-80% Elmers Carpenters Glue was used for the project and the remaining was Gorilla Glue.

    Had I known about other peoples reservations before starting the project, I would have returned the Gorilla Glue for more Elmers Glue.
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  • Easy Runnin
    Easy Runnin Posts: 501
    edited August 2013
    Last time I used JB weld steel stick. It's a two part apoxy that looks and feels like a toosie roll. I kneaded it and rolled in around in my hand. Next I rolled it out into a long thin tube like a straw. Then i pressed it into the seems around the circumference.
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