Setting up system in my house

TSWisla

I am updating my entire electrical box to 200 amps. I am going to run 2 20 amp lines, one for my x250, the other for everything else. Bought Porter Ports and a SolidSteel wall shelf for the TT. Anyone have any opinions for racks? I was considering a Mapleshade Sampson rack, any other ideas?

zane77

I don't have one but the Mapleshade Sampson racks look very nice. If I could stop buying audio gear this would be the one I would grab.

Systems

I am updating my entire electrical box to 200 amps.

Best investment I ever made in my system.
I did the box, 1 ga wiring along with new weather head/entrance/service, new copper ground rod, ect....
I have 2 dedicated lines also, 1 with the VH Audio 10 ga cryoed wire.
You might not think that highly of cryoed (I don't), but since I have 2 dedicated lines, both with the same Furutech receptacles, I can compare, and I GREATLY prefer the cryoed VH wire over the basic wiring.

Well worth the money IMHO.

TSWisla

I did not see 10 ga cryo on their site. Do you have a link?

TSWisla

OK, found it, 10-2 Cryogenically Treated Romex (10 AWG) is fantastic for dedicated lines and is UL approved for in-wall AC power use. Deep Cryogenic treatment. by American Cryogenics, using a proprietary process developed in conjunction with VH Audio.

2.99/ft is not too bad, I might go for it.

TSWisla

I just read BAT's site and they do not suggest using multiple lines. Should I use separate dedicated power lines to power amplifiers and my source components?

Contrary to popular belief, the answer is most often NO! Every system is different and it is hard to come up with a general rule. However, in order to minimize the chance of ground loop noise and signal degradation, it is advisable to assure that no large voltage differences exist between the chassis of different components in the system. These voltage differences will be more pronounced in a system incorporating several separate power lines. The voltage differences will be higher in the case of longer power lines and stronger current demand by heavy components (i.e. power amplifiers). Usually the safest approach is to run one strong (probably 20A) power line to your listening room and plug all your audio components into it. This approach creates a STAR power distribution system that should be less prone to ground loop problems.

Now I am very confused. Also, does anyone have any experience with analog and conduit, I read that they do not always pair up well together. I really want to go with conduit though for safety, now I am really stumped...

Drenis

You wanna pipe it all? Do they not make the product that already comes in a BX wire configuration? EMT to run that is overkill in a house IMO.

TSWisla

I have no flexible wire or bare wire anywhere in my house. I feel that this is the safest method.

Drenis

That is impressive. Not to mention expensive. I assume you built the home?

TSWisla

Not at all, that is the code here. I have lived in 5 houses in this area and all are like that.

SCompRacer

TSWisla wrote: »

Also, does anyone have any experience with analog and conduit, I read that they do not always pair up well together. I really want to go with conduit though for safety, now I am really stumped...

One 20 amp circuit is great if your system doesn't exceed the load. And you don't get the full 20; breakers usually pop at 80% which means ~16 amps steady with a 20 amp circuit, 12 amps for a 15 amp circuit.

Code can vary. Mine states any exposed wiring must be pipe, so I ran 1/2" pipe to my audio only outlet box from breaker box in basement. I had one 20 amp circuit until I added a different amp, so now I have two. They are on opposite busses of incoming 120. Same zero noise floor even with analog, and I am fussy about a zero noise floor. Pipe fill depends on wire type and insulation thickness. You also have box fill requirements. Just cause some folks can make it fit doesn't mean its OK.:eek::cheesygrin:

Some audio types will use the same length power cords to gear to prevent ground loops. I broke that rule and have long and short cables.

TSWisla

"They are on opposite busses of incoming 120"

Hold on, I have read that they should be on the same side of the box so that they share a common ground. Is this not correct? I am incredibly confused, but I do appreciate all of the input, I just want to get this right once and for all.

BlueFox

TSWisla wrote: »

I was considering a Mapleshade Sampson rack, any other ideas?

I love my Sampson v.3 rack. I now have a 5 shelf v.2 on order for the HT.

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?147323-New-rack-for-the-electronics

SCompRacer

TSWisla wrote: »

"They are on opposite busses of incoming 120"

Hold on, I have read that they should be on the same side of the box so that they share a common ground. Is this not correct? I am incredibly confused, but I do appreciate all of the input, I just want to get this right once and for all.

Are you talking ground or neutral? Same side of box, are you talking connecting breakers or circuits on same side of box or mean on the same bus?

Your 240v service breaker box has two 120 buses or inputs in opposite phase. Each breaker on the same side of box is on the opposite phase of 120. Breakers directly across from one another are on the same phase. Every other breaker on same side of box are on the same phase.

If two breakers or circuits are on opposite phases you can run one neutral for both circuits; they share the neutral. If two breakers or circuits are on the same phase, each needs its own neutral as the neutral will see the combined amperage of both circuits. Only need one ground for a duplex outlet, even if it is split.

TSWisla

Ok, so it does not matter which side of box the breakers go on as long as they are in the same phase? I am sorry, I have no idea what I am talking about.

SCompRacer

TSWisla wrote: »

Ok, so it does not matter which side of box the breakers go on as long as they are in the same phase? I am sorry, I have no idea what I am talking about.

No worries.

Sometimes in an existing install you are limited by what breaker positions are left open or unused. If you have plenty of breaker positions available, you can wire your circuits either way (same or opposite phase). What is important is to follow code and the rules of AC electricity. That is if both your audio circuits are on the same phase or leg of 120, each circuit needs its own neutral.

In my case, my two audio circuits are on opposite phases or legs of 120. I have no noise, no hum. So to me, I'm golden. If you are following a recommendation for circuits being on the same bus, just ensure they are wired properly.