Few Questions

Nightfall

I found a pair of RTA-12b's for sale and I think I desperately want them. What should I look for when I see/hear them before making a decision to buy them? My dad has SDA-SRS 2.3's and I have wanted them my entire life but I'm thinking this may be a good starting point, am I correct?

Another question is I remember 2 of the drivers on the 2.3's (on each speaker so 4 total) had this thick ring on them. I don't know how to describe it, like a donut really. What were those and why don't you see them on any other speakers from this era from Polk?

Finally, I will be driving these RTA-12b's with a Yamaha RX-V667. I know it's a bagillion channeled A/V reciever that isn't really suited for what I'm aiming for but will it suffice?

F1nut

If you want SDA's, get SDA's as nothing else comes close.

The donut drivers are mass loaded to limit their frequency response as Polk felt the 2.3's had too much midrange otherwise.

Nightfall

I would but I live in a studio apartment that is certainly not suited for SDA. Add in the rarity and cost and I just don't think it's appropriate for me. Just for the time being.

F1nut

Ok, but the RTA 12's have about the same footprint as SDA's. Have you considered something smaller like the Monitor 5 or 7's? Maybe the new LSiM 703's?

Nightfall

I'm not so concerned about the footprint, it's that they wouldn't be the recommended distances from rear wall, side wall, etc and would ruin imaging, staging, SDA effect and such.

Should I wait for a smaller pair to pop up than the RTA's? I'll be honest, I don't want to. The RTA's are just a straight forward speaker aren't they? No interconnect cable, effects, and what not. Would I wish I had waited for a smaller pair?

For certain I don't want a new pair. Vintage or nothing.

drumminman

I own a pair of RTA 12C's, which are very close or identical to the 12B's depending on when they were manufactured. I also own modded 2.3TL's.

Agree with F1 that nothing is like the SDA's, but the RTA 12C's are very fine speakers in their own right. They have better imaging than most other speakers of that era, and are smooth and detailed throughout the frequency range. Mine are modded with rebuilt Xovers, + some other tweaks, and I use them for the front L-R mains in my HT.

I use that exact Yamaha receiver in my HT, but I power only the center channel and surrounds with it (in a small room). I use a Carver TFM 42 (375 wpc) for the RTA's, and I've used a higher current Odyssey on them as well. While you'll be able to get sound out of them with the Yamaha, you won't come close to hearing how good they can sound. They're reasonably efficient, but they love lots of clean, high current power.

Also, if the Xovers haven't been touched they're due for a rebuild. They have both upper and lower Xovers, so that involves lots of caps.

How much is the seller asking?

Nightfall

$220 and says the cabinets aren't perfect but very good and none of the drivers are frozen.

boston1450

Talk him down some !

drumminman

Unless he has rebuilt the Xovers, they're probably worth around $150-175, depending on the shape of the cabinets, whether or not the top hats are in good shape, etc.

If the Cab is crap and the top hats are ratty, maybe $120. Tell him 30 year old speakers will need some work.

Nightfall

I will try but the ad says price is firm.

I hope to someday, when I get into a bigger place, to recreate the stereo my dad had. It's going to be tough though because I think it's hard to find some of the stuff anymore. Most of it was DBX and the speakers were 2.3's This was the EQ, or at least very similar



Which is several hundred dollars alone. I think the Yamaha I have and these 12Bs are overkill for the size of my room (and I live in just a single small room) but would be a great start.

drumminman

The price won't be so firm if they don't sell.

Keep an eye on them and let us know what happens.

Nightfall

I couldn't resist. They're nearly immaculate. My phone will not do them justice. Veneer is not lifting anywhere, no blemishes, drivers aren't frozen neither do they "scratch" as they move, tweeters were upgraded, and the grey foam over the front of the PR isn't bubbling. Two posts that hold the top hat on the right speaker are broken and one of the top hats has a bend to it. That's it. I'm in heaven. I paid the full asking price and have zero regrets. Now if only it wasn't so late and I could give them a little juice...

F1nut

Well, congrats!

That's the original Peerless tweeter.

Nightfall

I wonder if at some point the actual originals blew because he said he replaced them a few years ago? I was under the impression that only the original 12's came with peerless and the B's and C's had SL's?

F1nut

IIRC, the recess for the Peerless is smaller than the SL2000's and your recess area looks untouched.

Nightfall

Thanks for the info, I love this era from this brand and will never turn down some knowledge.

boston1450

Very nice. A friend of mine had some also. The HAT also bent on his. Known issue with those. Enjoy them keep us posted what ya think of them. They sure are purdy. Good choice.

zane77

Congrats on your new purchase, enjoy!

Nightfall

Two more questions I'd like to ask to the folks more knowledgeable than I.

1) I don't care how dumb I'm about to sound but how can I tell the difference between vinyl and veneer? What are my speakers...

2) I had a Pioneer SX-850 growing up and want it back. What would be the minimum reciever in the SX line to drive these speakers? Aside from minimum how about recommended?

Thanks for your time!

drumminman

Nightfall wrote: »

I wonder if at some point the actual originals blew because he said he replaced them a few years ago? I was under the impression that only the original 12's came with peerless and the B's and C's had SL's?

I believe you're correct - only the original came with Peerless, though Polk was famous for using up parts on the production line. The B's and early C's came with SL1000's, the later C's with SL2000's.

From a post by Geppy1 a while back, the resident expert on RTA 12's:

I have spent a huge amount of time researching this and taking 12s apart. i have three pair right now.There was some throwing whatever was around into the cabinet. I have 12Cs that were made at the same time as my Bs and they have all the same stuff. Go figure. Here it is.

RTA 12
1979-late 1980. Came with stands and had shorter cabinet with tweeter hanging vertical. OUTSIDE DRIVERS ARE NOT ROLLED OFF LIKE LATER ONES.
Tweeeter is HF 1000 marked 7514__ Peerless made in Denmark or 5514 __Peerless made in USA
Drivers are 6500s usually with gray paper trim

RTA12A
I think this when they went to the 6600X driver but I have never seen one

RTA12B
1981-1984 This one is screwy. Full size cabinet, two different crossovers but the only difference seems to be the type of caps used. Same values just different types
Tweeters ,early 1981-83 US made Peerless marked 5514__ Couple of different ones used and THEY DO NOT SOUND THE SAME.. Polk also called them SL1000s. Later (early 84) use the Silver faced real SL1000 Also switched from the pins for tophat location to trees for that. Late 83???
Drivers are 6600X

RTA12C
1984-87
Early 1984-85 Used same crossover and caps as late 12Bs. There are Cs made in early 84 and Bs made after them. All components are the same. Point is a late B is the same as an early C
Tweeters Silver faced SL1000
Drivers usually 6600X but some 6501s late

Late 1986-87 Slightly different caps. Same values but different manufacture. Also now has a Polyswitch in place of the fuse on the top crossover.
Tweeters SL2000
Drivers 6501s

Your mileage may vary. keith (Geppy1)

When you're ready for a major improvement in sound quality, rebuild the Xovers with modern film caps and non inductive resistors. The electrolytics Polk had access to at the time can be bettered by what is available today. If you're not comfortable doing that, VR3 here on the forum will do it for you. Lots of satisfied customers here on CP.

Congrats and enjoy!

Nightfall

Ive been reading a lot about rebuilding the xovers. Would I just remove the xovers themselves and ship them to him? What is a general cost going to be with, say, Sonicaps seem popular? Is it worth going with sonicaps over a little cheaper brand?

zingo

Congrats!

StantonZ

Nightfall wrote: »

Ive been reading a lot about rebuilding the xovers. Would I just remove the xovers themselves and ship them to him? What is a general cost going to be with, say, Sonicaps seem popular? Is it worth going with sonicaps over a little cheaper brand?

The short answer is "yes", but VR3 can advise; there are enough 'audio quality' cap vendors to make your head spin. I just rebuilt my XO's (see my sig) based on advice from this forum and am very happy with the results.

PolkieMan

Those crossovers look easy, too bad your not close by.
Use good caps and resistors like Sonic Caps and Mills.
Remember High Quality labor is the same for good roof as it is for a cheap one
might as well go for the good roof.