Running 4-conductor wire to speakers - best way?
scubalab
Posts: 3,103
It may have been discussed before, but couldn't find an exact answer in what I've read so far...
All of the speakers in my HT have the double set of binding posts for bi-wiring or bi-amping. I don't believe I can bi-amp, but was wondering the best way to wire them. I have in-wall 12AWG 4-conductor wire goint to each speaker. At the receiver (Denon AVR-988), i have both reds in one banana plug and both blacks in the other banana plug. The question is, would it be better to do the same at the speakers (with a good jumper between the binding posts), or skip the jumper and connect the four wires to the four binding posts? Or do you think it would even make a difference??
All of the speakers in my HT have the double set of binding posts for bi-wiring or bi-amping. I don't believe I can bi-amp, but was wondering the best way to wire them. I have in-wall 12AWG 4-conductor wire goint to each speaker. At the receiver (Denon AVR-988), i have both reds in one banana plug and both blacks in the other banana plug. The question is, would it be better to do the same at the speakers (with a good jumper between the binding posts), or skip the jumper and connect the four wires to the four binding posts? Or do you think it would even make a difference??
Post edited by scubalab on
Comments
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skip the jumper and connect the four wires to the four binding posts?
This if you going to do it. It may or may not make a difference and can't hurt... -
I would not waste the time. I doubt you would hear any worthwhile difference, especially with mass market gear. Even with high end gear, its doubtful. I've been there, done that. Even if you could get some benefits from biwiring, the extra cable from in-wall runs, plus multiple connection points, would probably cancel out any improvements. Why did you have 4-conductor cable runs to each speaker installed ? That was a waste of money versus 2-conductor.Main System: Denon DP-59L | Audio-Technica AT33EV | Marantz SA-11S2 | Classe DR-10 | Classe CA-300 | Classe RC-1 | PSB Stratus Gold i's | DIY Balanced AC Power Conditioner | Acoustic Zen and NeoTech cables | Oyaide and Furutech power connectors | Dedicated 20A isolated ground line.
Home Theater: Toshiba D-VR5SU | Laptop #1 |Outlaw Audio OAW3 wireless audio system | Marantz SR-19 | Phase Linear 400 Series 2, modified | AudioSource 10.1 EQ (for subs) | Axiom M3 v3’s | Axiom VP150 | Optimus PRO-X55AVs | Dayton 12” powered subs (x2) | Belkin PureAV PF-60 line conditioner.
Party System: Laptop #2 | Audioquest Dragonfly USB DAC | Technics SU-A6 | Acurus A-250 | Radio Shack 15-band EQ | Pioneer SR-9 reverb | Cerwin Vega DX9's | Dayton 100° x 60° horns with titanium HF/MF compression drivers. -
Figured It'd be a heck of a lot easier to run the 4 conductor wire and not need it than find out after the drywall was repaired that I might want to bi-amp, or upgrade... The wire (from Monoprice) was not that much more (I think around $40 or $50 more at the time I purchased/installed).
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Thanks. That's what I figured...
