Speaker stand DIY for Lsi9

sk88
sk88 Posts: 159
edited July 2013 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
IMG4368 - Since I finished the Vr3 mod on my Lsi9, I'd been wanting to make a stand for it.
I referenced many DIY examples that I can find online and decided on this one which I am showing here.

Materials for two stands:
I don't have all the figures but it doesn't cost much at all to make your own.
1" x 2, 2" x 4 and 3" x 2 PVC pipes, 28" long each for a final stand height of 30" without spikes
3/4" MDF board - top 7" x 12", bottom 12" x 12" (do NOT use MDF, more on this below)
Speaker spikes of your choice (optional)
1/4"-20 nylon lock nuts x 4
1/4" flat washers x 4
1/4"-20 threaded rod 36" long x 2
2" diameter round wood rod for the legs (optional)
Gorilla glue

IMG4379 - I used a 10" table saw to cut the pipes. It can't cut the 3" pipe in one pass so I rotate the pipe and
cut in multiple passes then file down the edge until it's flat.

IMG4382 - make circle cutout to glue the pipes to the board. I used a simple circular cutter which costs less than $10. I haven't tried it on hardwood but no problem on MDF.

IMG4385 - round the edge with a router but it's really not necessary

IMG4388 - the threaded rod with locking nuts will hold the top and bottom boards between the pipes tightly.
You can see that I used wood filler to smooth out all the gaps where the legs join to the board.
I found it important to glue the pipes in addition to the tightening rod.

I mentioned that DO NOT USE MDF. I didn't take pictures but the 3" circle where the rod bolted to split from
the rest of the board into a round 3/8" thick disc (from the washer on the bottom to the top surface).
It happened when I tried to lift the stand by grabbing the board on the top. This was after I filled in all the
sand (a lot heavier) but before I glued down the pipes. Should've used oak or plywood.
So I glued the disc back and added a 1/4" layer of plywood to the bottom.
Now I just have to lift the stand from the bottom.

IMG4403 - fill all the pipes with play sand all the way. It's important to fill the pipes with sand for three reasons.
1) avoid resonance in the pipes, and for this reason you want to fill the pipes all the way,
2) adds weight to couple the speaker to the floor,
3) stabilize it.
There are people who use lead shots instead of sand. I imagine it would weigh too much if you fill lead shots
all the way. It'd cost a lot more than sand. If you use sand, make sure the sand is fully dry. People bake the
sand in an oven. I used free solar power (Texas sun) during hot sunny day for 3 days and I make sure that I
stir it several times during each day to dry the bottom portion.

You can see that I glued a 1" pipe inside the 3" pipe to block out the sand. This 1" pipe is where the speaker wires would go (and hide). Note the opening for the wire. It's cut using a dremel with a cutting bit.

IMG4444 - many people use bluetack/bluestik between the speaker and the stand. I use 1/8" thickness closed cell EVA foam that I have left from a previous project. It's good for non-skid (kinda like a mouse pad) and it
couples the whole speaker to the stand instead of just four corners.

IMG4436 - Because I have carpet floor, I chose to spike the stands.
I hear positive results from spiking speakers through the carpet down to the hard surface underneath.



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IMG_4444.jpg
IMG_4436.jpg
IMG_4428.jpg
IMG_4403.jpg
IMG_4379.jpg
IMG_4382.jpg
IMG_4385.jpg
IMG_4388.jpg
IMG_4368.jpg
  • Online - Focal Solo6 BE, Polk PSW10, Focusrite Saffire Pro 24 DSP, Lenovo x220t
  • Music/HT - Lsi25, Lsi9 (Vr3), Lsi7, LsiC, Pioneer SC-68 & BDP-62FD, PS3
Post edited by sk88 on

Comments

  • Oldfatdogs
    Oldfatdogs Posts: 1,874
    edited July 2013
    Nice job,they came out great.Gotta love those Vr3 mods.
    Dan
  • TurboGTU
    TurboGTU Posts: 187
    edited July 2013
    That looks really nice, cool design!!
  • chumlie
    chumlie Posts: 8,658
    edited July 2013
    Great job and design.
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited July 2013
    Great design, especially the way you made the channel for speaker wire.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited July 2013
    Nice work indeed!!!
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,649
    edited July 2013
    Your design is pretty close to the stands made by Skylan, but they use 3.5" square PVC tubing, the bottom plate is 1" thick MDF and no glue is needed as the threaded rods tighten everything up nicely. I've got 25 lbs. of lead shot in each of my Skylan stands, no problem with the bases.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • ratster
    ratster Posts: 324
    edited July 2013
    Sweet!
    Main
    Parasound P5
    Parasound A21
    CA music streamer
    marantz 6005
    Clear Day dbl.shotgun
    Morrow Xlr
    1.7 Maggies


    Bedroom
    adcom Gfp750
    Adcom 555
    Rotel 1072
    CA tuner
    LsiM703
    Clear day dbl shotgun
  • sk88
    sk88 Posts: 159
    edited July 2013
    3.5" tube probably made the difference (36% more area to hold the rod). I am thinking now that it also can be possible that I might have overtighten the rod such that it have separated the circular area from the base even before I lifted the stand.
    • Online - Focal Solo6 BE, Polk PSW10, Focusrite Saffire Pro 24 DSP, Lenovo x220t
    • Music/HT - Lsi25, Lsi9 (Vr3), Lsi7, LsiC, Pioneer SC-68 & BDP-62FD, PS3
  • zane77
    zane77 Posts: 1,696
    edited July 2013
    Those look really nice, great design. There are always a few bugs to work out in a new product. Great job!
    Home Theater
    Onkyo PR-SC5508 Sharp LC-70LE847U
    Emotiva XPA-5 Emotiva XPA-2 Emotiva UPA-2
    Front RTi-A9 Wide RTi-A7 Center CSi-A6 Surround FXi-A6 Rear RTi-A3 Sub 2x PSW505
    Sony BDP-S790 Dishnetwork Hopper/Joey Logitech Harmony One Apple TV
    Two Channel
    Oppo 105D BAT VK-500 w/BatPack SDA SRS 2.3 Dreadnought Squeezebox Touch Apple TV
  • sk88
    sk88 Posts: 159
    edited July 2013
    sk88 wrote: »
    3.5" tube probably made the difference (36% more area to hold the rod)....

    Just saw Skylan stands are using square tubes in either 2-posts or 4-posts configuration, so my calculation above is incorrect. I think it probably has a rod in each posts so it doesn't need glue.
    • Online - Focal Solo6 BE, Polk PSW10, Focusrite Saffire Pro 24 DSP, Lenovo x220t
    • Music/HT - Lsi25, Lsi9 (Vr3), Lsi7, LsiC, Pioneer SC-68 & BDP-62FD, PS3
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,649
    edited July 2013
    I think it probably has a rod in each posts so it doesn't need glue.

    Correct.

    Also the groove for the tubes aren't as deep as yours. That and the thicker MDF addresses the issue you had.

    I didn't mention it before, but your stands do look nice. What did you paint them with?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • sk88
    sk88 Posts: 159
    edited July 2013
    F1nut, you hit the nail on the head. You are exactly right that I cut my groove too deep so that it went over the depth of the hole that I drilled on the other side. See pictures. The top drawing has deeper groove vs. the bottom. The bottom would be much more difficult to break apart. I never thought of that until now. A small oversight can break a project. You are an expert!

    Regarding the paint, I was going to use Krylon Fusion For Plastic but the local Homedepot doesn't carry it. So I ended up using Rust-Oleum and auto clear coat as pictured. You see any issue with the paint?
    IMG_4459.jpg
    Drawing1.jpg
    IMG_4458.jpg
    • Online - Focal Solo6 BE, Polk PSW10, Focusrite Saffire Pro 24 DSP, Lenovo x220t
    • Music/HT - Lsi25, Lsi9 (Vr3), Lsi7, LsiC, Pioneer SC-68 & BDP-62FD, PS3
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,746
    edited July 2013
    Awesome stands, love the design! Excellent job on the crossover as well! :)
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited July 2013
    I think they look "Killer"!
    Very nice and look like a "Professional" job!

    the-professional-movie-poster-1994-1020191956.jpg

    Bravo!:cheesygrin:
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,649
    edited July 2013
    You see any issue with the paint?

    No, just wondered what you used.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • sk88
    sk88 Posts: 159
    edited July 2013
    Thanks everyone.

    Love Vr3.
    • Online - Focal Solo6 BE, Polk PSW10, Focusrite Saffire Pro 24 DSP, Lenovo x220t
    • Music/HT - Lsi25, Lsi9 (Vr3), Lsi7, LsiC, Pioneer SC-68 & BDP-62FD, PS3
  • Moose68Bash
    Moose68Bash Posts: 3,843
    edited July 2013
    Well done!

    Nice design and great execution!

    Thank you for sharing this project, complete with a bill of materials and instructions. :smile:
    Family Room, Innuos Statement streamer (Roon Core) with Morrow Audio USB cable to McIntosh MC 2700 pre with DC2 Digital Audio Module; AQ Sky XLRs to CAT 600.2 dualmono amp, Morrow Elite Speaker Cables to NOLA Baby Grand Reference Gold 3 speakers. Power source for all components: Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One with dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel.

    Exercise Room, Innuos Streamer via Cat 6 cable connection to PS Audio PerfectWave MkII DAC w/Bridge II, AQ King Cobra RCAs to Perreaux PMF3150 amp (fully restored and upgraded by Jeffrey Jackson, Precision Audio Labs), Supra Rondo 4x2.5 Speaker Cables to SDA 1Cs (Vr3 Mods Xovers and other mods.), Dreadnaught with Supra Rondo 4x2.5 interconnect cables by Vr3 Mods. Power for each component from dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel, except Innuos Statement powered from Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One.

  • Kevinvb11
    Kevinvb11 Posts: 105
    edited July 2013
    Polk LSi9 023.jpg
    Polk LSi9 024.jpg
    Nice work! I like them, but it depends on your taste and home....here's my crutchfield specials that still do the trick for me...
    Polk LSi9 022.jpg
  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,092
    edited July 2013
    Great job sk88!!!
  • sk88
    sk88 Posts: 159
    edited July 2013
    Kevinvb11 wrote: »
    ....here's my crutchfield specials that still do the trick for me...

    It does look nice, especially the color match.
    Nice sword!
    • Online - Focal Solo6 BE, Polk PSW10, Focusrite Saffire Pro 24 DSP, Lenovo x220t
    • Music/HT - Lsi25, Lsi9 (Vr3), Lsi7, LsiC, Pioneer SC-68 & BDP-62FD, PS3
  • sk88
    sk88 Posts: 159
    edited July 2013
    Great job sk88!!!

    Thanks!
    • Online - Focal Solo6 BE, Polk PSW10, Focusrite Saffire Pro 24 DSP, Lenovo x220t
    • Music/HT - Lsi25, Lsi9 (Vr3), Lsi7, LsiC, Pioneer SC-68 & BDP-62FD, PS3
  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
    edited July 2013
    Nice Work...I love the DIY part.
    2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2
  • sk88
    sk88 Posts: 159
    edited July 2013
    I didn't weigh the stand before I moved it and put the speaker on it. Now I finished my 2nd stand yesterday and I remembered to take its weight - it's exactly 30.0 lb - in case people want to know.
    • Online - Focal Solo6 BE, Polk PSW10, Focusrite Saffire Pro 24 DSP, Lenovo x220t
    • Music/HT - Lsi25, Lsi9 (Vr3), Lsi7, LsiC, Pioneer SC-68 & BDP-62FD, PS3
  • xftman
    xftman Posts: 153
    edited July 2013
    Nice work and thanks for the post.
    I am building one for my lsi9 and now I am waiting for my circular cutter ship from Amazon for <$10. I will use 12"x12"x1" oak that from my last hardwood staircase DIY for base. will use single 4" PVC and 3/8" tread rod. My total expense for the materials is about $35(PVC: $15, Steal threaded rod: $3x2, cutter: $10, nuts and washer). no need to buy base, sand, paint...

    Again, thanks for the post.

    will report back after done...
    MAIN:
    Front- LsiM 707 (MIT Terminator 2 Bi-Wire),
    Center- lsiM 706,
    Surrounds- lsi F/X,
    Power sub PSW1000,
    Receiver- Harman Kardon Avr 3700,
    Amp - Emo XPR-5.

    Secondary (2.1):
    LsiM 703,
    HK Avr 3700,
    Yaqin MS-30L,
    Polk DSW-PRO 400.

  • sk88
    sk88 Posts: 159
    edited July 2013
    Please post some pictures when done.
    • Online - Focal Solo6 BE, Polk PSW10, Focusrite Saffire Pro 24 DSP, Lenovo x220t
    • Music/HT - Lsi25, Lsi9 (Vr3), Lsi7, LsiC, Pioneer SC-68 & BDP-62FD, PS3