Dead Battery gain?

CPHILHOWER
CPHILHOWER Posts: 343
edited January 2004 in Car Audio & Electronics
PBD, Back a couple of weeks ago. I had a problem with a DEAD battery. Happened again today. Listened to my radio for about 30 to 45 minutes at low volume. Noticed the Voltmeter flashing 10.2. Went to start. Barely cranked. But if I come out a couple of hours later it will start fine. What gives? Oh, I didnt get a chance to get my New Alternator in yet. But I did run an additional 2 gauge Ground wire from the Engine. Used the same bracket as the Factory Ground.
Thanks
Chris
Post edited by CPHILHOWER on

Comments

  • CPHILHOWER
    CPHILHOWER Posts: 343
    edited December 2003
    Now interestingly, I check the Battery 20 minutes later with a DVOM. Reads 11.8. Cranks slowly. Give it a Jumpstart. Started right up. Did not hear the Alternator whine. Drove 2 miles to my parents house. Stayed there for about 2 hrs. Had to bury another Rabbit. He was only about 6 months old. Had a Stroke. Started up and ran fine on my way home.

    Any Theories? Thom, Did you have this problem with the Polk Escapes? Only running 2 RF amps. BD500 and Power 550x.
    Chris :confused:
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited December 2003
    sorry to hear about the loss of another furry friend... nobody seems to be having animal luck lately...

    far as the car goes - is the battery old or something?

    i mean you've got a problem somewhere dude... either its the battery or hte alternator or the wiring in between. something's not right.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited December 2003
    i know what your problem is!!
    its a ford right?
    j/k
    but other than that, i had a friend with a similar problem, the little thingy in his door that "sensored" the door was closed was bad, and his light stayed on all the time in his car, didnt know what was wrong until one night he went out and saw it cuz it was dark
    other than that, all of your amps are shutting off correctly? the litte red lights go out on em after a minute?
    thats all i can think of...
    -Cody
  • CPHILHOWER
    CPHILHOWER Posts: 343
    edited December 2003
    The battery is an Orange top Optima. About 1 1/2 years old. I dont think its the battery. Always seems to recover. The 120 amp main fuse does get hot. Noticed the plastic case was a little loose. But the terminals are tight.
    About how many amps am I pulling off the battery? RF sheets claim about 1000 watts rms total at 14.2v.
    Maybe when I finally do get the 200 put in. I'll get the Factory unit tested. If it fails, I'll go back to the dealer and demand a replacement. They can pay a Tech to "R&R ALternator" under the warranty. And just give me the replacement.
    Your right. This is NOT a good year. Since Oct. I had to bury my boy rabbit (BlueBoy), Family dog of 16 years (Holly), My sisters rabbit (Zen) today. Also, my neighbor passed in Sept, My Uncle in Oct. Just a couple of days after my dog.
    Chris
  • CPHILHOWER
    CPHILHOWER Posts: 343
    edited December 2003
    I already did the Interior light ck. The only light that is on is the LED for my CB radio. I went to radio Shack and purchased a Cigar plug so that I could power my CB off the Power Port.
    I wonder if it isnt the Alt or wiring. I dont hear the Whine when I start. Even after playing the radio for a while. Once I do get the new unit in. It will have its own wire (2 gauge) back to the battery. if it still happens, then I must have a short. Doubtful since the battery never went dead overnight. just after playing the radio a short time. Unless maybe an Amp is drawing too much current. But then the Fuse should blow.
    Chris
  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited December 2003
    isnt there a place like oreilleys or somewhere that will check ur alt. and battery for free?
    maybe thatll give you a better idea
    -Cody
  • CPHILHOWER
    CPHILHOWER Posts: 343
    edited December 2003
    Where I work has a machine. however it doesnt test Optimas. Dont know if the one out in the shop can.
    Chris
  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,804
    edited December 2003
    This could be related to your alternator. The volt meter measures the voltage coming off the battery which is the power "resivoir" for your car. If you want to find out what's happening, do this.

    Get a multi-meter. Check for continuity across the battery. Should be between 13 and 14 volts. Now start the car and turn on the radio. Check the voltage across the battery again. It should be at about 12-13 volts. Check the voltage coming out of the alternator. It should be 13-14 volts if it is lower or higher, you need a new alternator and/or voltage regulator. If you are seeing a voltage drop between the alternator and the battery then you need a new alternator or maybe just a new voltage regulator.

    When your volt meter starts flashing the 10 volts, it's because the battery is draining and your charging system is not replenishing the juice fast enough. That's what happens when you draw too much current. Another thing is, if the engine is idling and you have a high amperage alternator, it may not be producing enough juice at low idle speeds to charge the system properly.

    Also, you may need to add a battery because your electrical system just may not have the capacity to support your stereo.
    Expert Moron Extraordinaire

    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
  • CPHILHOWER
    CPHILHOWER Posts: 343
    edited December 2003
    I did mot get my new Alternator installed yet. But when I do, I will be running a new 2 gauge wire direct from the Batt lead to the Battery. Both Alts are Internally Regulated.
    Here is my Question. How many AMPS am I drawing from the Battery? Engine off. 2 amps. RF BD500 and Power 550x. Total 1000 watts rms.
    Since this problem occurs only when I run the radio too LOUD to long. I am thinking that the stock Alt is not capable of recharging the battery. But I dont hear the distinctive "Whine" that they normally make after a large load is applied.
    Chris
  • CPHILHOWER
    CPHILHOWER Posts: 343
    edited January 2004
    Where I work finally got a machine that DOES test Optima batteries. Had mine checked last night. Due to having to Jumpstart 3 days in a row. Battery only showing 300 amp capacity. But with my 3 Farad (Total) caps hooked up, The reading went to abou 500 amps. Stock Alt tested fine. Now I ordered a Exide Orbital Deep cycle. Should be in a day or two. Hopefully, I'll get it in before it gets COLD again. Currently carrying a spare battery and cables in my trunk. Been having to need them the last 3 days due to the Cold.
    Chris
  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,804
    edited January 2004
    Well, teh stock alternator can test fine but it could be just like you said before, the stock alternator is not capable of supporting and recharging the battery. Best thing to do is test everything in the vehicle, under you typical loads, with amulti-meter and see what it is doing.
    Expert Moron Extraordinaire

    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
  • CPHILHOWER
    CPHILHOWER Posts: 343
    edited January 2004
    I drive 15 miles down I295. With as much as possible off. Except the Heater and Headlamps for the last couple of days. Optima thinks I just drained the battery. Just need to recharge it with an external charger.
    Chris
  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited January 2004
    if thats the case, charge it as soon as possible...putting that type of load on a stock alternator can be fatal:(
    i went through one and i think that was part of the problem, i ran the truck with a barely charged battery
    -Cody