Completed XO Rebuild/Upgrade on First Pair of 10B's
StantonZ
Posts: 444
...and it was a b*tch (picture attached)! Swapping the parts out wasn't so bad (even thought there's some creativity involved in cramming the huge SoniCaps onto a small board), but detaching/re-attaching the XO board onto the backing structure was basically a 2 man job (that's why we have kids, right?). I have one more pair to go, and to my amazement the second pair is VERY different (my 2 pairs of 10B's were bought 4 years apart); however, it looks like the removal/replacement of the XO board won't be quite as bad on the second pair.
Long story short, when I hooked them up, one speaker came up fine and the other didn't (lacked bass). I discovered I had lifted one of the pads for the inductor and ended up soldering that lead to the (+) lead (good thing there were multiple connections on that node). The "muddiness" I was experiencing in one of my speakers is gone and they already sound "tighter" than what I had. I can only hope they'll last for the $$ I put into them (I replaced the tweets with RDO-194's a few months ago). BTW, the suggestion to replace the polyswitch with a .5 Ohm resistor was a good one: both polyswitches measured about .7 Ohms after removal, and I like how my high-end sounds now.
Long story short, when I hooked them up, one speaker came up fine and the other didn't (lacked bass). I discovered I had lifted one of the pads for the inductor and ended up soldering that lead to the (+) lead (good thing there were multiple connections on that node). The "muddiness" I was experiencing in one of my speakers is gone and they already sound "tighter" than what I had. I can only hope they'll last for the $$ I put into them (I replaced the tweets with RDO-194's a few months ago). BTW, the suggestion to replace the polyswitch with a .5 Ohm resistor was a good one: both polyswitches measured about .7 Ohms after removal, and I like how my high-end sounds now.
Yamaha RX-A2050 AVR (5.0.2); LG OLED77C2 4K TV
(4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)
(2) Polk RC80i (Top Middle)
Polk CS300 center channel
Analog: B&O TX2 Turntable, Nakamichi Cassette Deck 1
Digital: Pioneer CLD-99 Elite LD, Panasonic DMP-UB900 UHD Blu-Ray
Bedroom: Arylic Up2Stream AMPv3 driving Polk Monitor 4's w/peerless tweets
Post edited by StantonZ on
Comments
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Good job that vertical cap looks like a beast.POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1 -
What kind of wire did you use to connect the cap with the board? Looks like a piece of 24awg Cat5/6.
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half of pair 1?
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looks like the WHite blue side of telephone wire.Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
What kind of wire did you use to connect the cap with the board? Looks like a piece of 24awg Cat5/6.
That's funny: I think you nailed it! I removed a few strands from cable laying around the lab because I wanted some solid wire to replace the polyfuse; once I saw it measured out @ 0.7 Ohm I figured I couldn't go wrong replacing it with a 0.5 Ohm resistor (Mills). When I realized I couldn't fit that 34 uF cap anywhere, I was glad I had the extra wire.Yamaha RX-A2050 AVR (5.0.2); LG OLED77C2 4K TV(4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)(2) Polk RC80i (Top Middle)Polk CS300 center channelAnalog: B&O TX2 Turntable, Nakamichi Cassette Deck 1Digital: Pioneer CLD-99 Elite LD, Panasonic DMP-UB900 UHD Blu-RayBedroom: Arylic Up2Stream AMPv3 driving Polk Monitor 4's w/peerless tweets -
Finished the other set (of 2): COMPLETELY different PCB mounted in a COMPLETELY different way. I would say this set was slightly easier to remove/replace, but it still took me an entire day. There were no markings/etchings for ANYTHING, so I did one and used the other as a guide; I also had to mark the PCB with +/-/etc so I would know where to re-attach everything. Got all 4 speakers pumping on the "Star Wars: A Musical Journey" and they sound great! I'll probably watch a movie tonight.
I'm not touching my center channel Monitor 4's (w/peerless tweets) in any way.
Yamaha RX-A2050 AVR (5.0.2); LG OLED77C2 4K TV(4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)(2) Polk RC80i (Top Middle)Polk CS300 center channelAnalog: B&O TX2 Turntable, Nakamichi Cassette Deck 1Digital: Pioneer CLD-99 Elite LD, Panasonic DMP-UB900 UHD Blu-RayBedroom: Arylic Up2Stream AMPv3 driving Polk Monitor 4's w/peerless tweets