hurricane nuts

canadianicon25
canadianicon25 Posts: 200
edited May 2013 in Vintage Speakers
is there another name for these? i am trying to find a place that has them other than parts express. the shipping to Canada is brutal!
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,557
    edited May 2013
    is there another name for these?

    Not that I'm aware of.
    i am trying to find a place that has them other than parts express.

    They are available on Amazon and eBay.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,101
    edited May 2013
    Tee nuts/prong nuts are similar but not identical. Should be available anywhere--local hardware store for example.

    http://www.amazon.com/Prong-Nut-8-32-Tee-Qty/dp/B00BOEKQSM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369594403&sr=8-1&keywords=Tee+nuts+8-32

    21R1yeo5MgL.jpg
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  • PolkieMan
    PolkieMan Posts: 2,446
    edited May 2013
    Parts Express through Amazon I do this a lot.

    http://www.amazon.com/8-32-Hurricane-Nuts-50-Pcs/dp/B0002ZPETA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_6
    POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
    POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
    PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
    POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
    ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1
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  • heartystatue
    heartystatue Posts: 329
    edited May 2013
    I think they have a fastenal in Canada. They will have them.
    HT: LSI15, LSIC, LSIFX, Emo XPA-3:biggrin: Onkyo TXNR809, Sony BDP-S500, PannyDMP-BDT320, MIT S1 SC. Mit 73842dlp
    2ch: SDA-SRS 2.3 Fully modded. BAT VK500 w/batpak, BAT VK5I, Essence HDACC.
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  • oldmodman
    oldmodman Posts: 740
    edited May 2013
    Those are available at every Home Depot and Orchard Supply I have ever been in.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,557
    edited May 2013
    oldmodman wrote: »
    Those are available at every Home Depot and Orchard Supply I have ever been in.

    Hurricane nuts or T-nuts? Big difference and I would not recommend T-nuts for speaker basket mounting, but they are great for spikes.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited May 2013
    ^^^ +1

    H-nuts are smaller and will work much better.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • michaeljhsda2
    michaeljhsda2 Posts: 2,184
    edited May 2013
    The prongs on the T-nuts will more than likely bend instead of penetrating the MDF. I know because I tried installing them and they didn't work well at all. I ended up cutting off the prongs and used liquid nails to hold them in place...what a pain in the ****. A much better alternative is to use hurricane nuts as others have recommended.
    SDA SRS 2.3TL's
    Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
    SDA 2B TL's
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,557
    edited May 2013
    Michaeljhsda2 mentions MDF. It should be noted that the bezels of all SDA's up to the TL verisons are particle board, only the TL versions are MDF. Regardless, T-nuts have to be driven in with a hammer and that is NOT what one wants to do on the flange of a driver cut out.

    Hurricane nuts are designed to be drawn in and should never be hammered in. To draw the H-nut in use a screw/bolt with a washer. Place the H-nut at the rear of the hole, run the screw/bolt into the threads and slowly tighten until the H-nut has setted.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • canadianicon25
    canadianicon25 Posts: 200
    edited May 2013
    went with t-nuts because they are locally available. yikes! hard to set. burned through cap screws and even a stainless bolt trying to set them in without clamping of any kind. didn't destroy the cabinets but wasted materials. i would def'n say that something other than t-nuts should be used. i went for the cheapest solution, but am wondering if it would have been better to just spend a bit more and ordered the hurricanes.
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  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,101
    edited May 2013
    canadianicon25 wrote: »
    burned through cap screws and even a stainless bolt trying to set them in
    Most stainless bolts are weak. About the equivalent of hardware-store Grade 2. Total junk for anything structural.
    http://www.ebay.com/gds/stainless-bolts-usually-very-weak/10000000001623345/g.html

    What grade of cap screws were you using?
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited May 2013
    canadianicon25 wrote: »
    went with t-nuts because they are locally available. yikes! hard to set. burned through cap screws and even a stainless bolt trying to set them in without clamping of any kind. didn't destroy the cabinets but wasted materials. i would def'n say that something other than t-nuts should be used. i went for the cheapest solution, but am wondering if it would have been better to just spend a bit more and ordered the hurricanes.

    You're making it too hard on yourself!

    Get H-nuts, drill out the existing holes in the front baffle to the diameter of the H-nut shaft (but not the wings of the shaft, in other words don't make it too big), press the H-nut in by hand just enough for it to hold, use your screw (preferably allen head) to draw it into place.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • TennMan
    TennMan Posts: 1,266
    edited May 2013
    H-nuts make a better looking job if you take the time to break off about 1/3 of the radius of the flange. It keeps the flange from hanging over into the hole where the driver mounts.

    Easy to do if you have a bench vise. Just clamp the part of the flange you want to remove into the vise, then rock the nut back and forth with a long screw screwed into the threaded hole. With a little bit of rocking the flange will snap right off. Hit it a couple of licks with a file to knock off the rough edges and your done.
    • SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
    • Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    • Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    • Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    • Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    • SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
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  • canadianicon25
    canadianicon25 Posts: 200
    edited May 2013
    i don' know what grade cap screw. alloy steel of some kind; the only kind i could find locally in a 1" length. all i have left is the passive radiator on one speaker so getting h-nuts isn't worth it now. the h-nuts are cheap but the shipping was a lot. i saved money in the long run, but gave me the sweats working with them on vintage cabinets.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,557
    edited May 2013
    I have to ask, how much would have been the cost of shipping?
    i saved money in the long run,

    Time is money and aggravation is costly. By the sounds of it, you didn't save a penny........just saying.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • canadianicon25
    canadianicon25 Posts: 200
    edited May 2013
    approx $25.00 for shipping.
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  • jon s
    jon s Posts: 905
    edited May 2013
    Don't use T-nuts! I have built two subs and in both cases, one of the T-nuts popped out of the rear of the baffe, rendering them useless. The problem is once they pop out, you can't get the bolt out!
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  • TennMan
    TennMan Posts: 1,266
    edited May 2013
    canadianicon25 wrote: »
    approx $25.00 for shipping.
    What? That is brutal. Or highway robbery. Below are the details of my order for h-nuts from Amazon.co. 50 per box.

    Items Ordered
    Price:$5.50 - 2 of: #8-32 Hurricane Nuts 50 Pcs.
    Condition: New
    Sold by: Parts Express

    Item(s) Subtotal: $11.00
    Shipping & Handling: $5.41
    Total before tax: $16.41
    Sales Tax: $0.00
    Total for This Shipment: $16.41
    • SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
    • Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    • Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    • Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    • Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    • SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,557
    edited May 2013
    canadianicon25 wrote: »
    approx $25.00 for shipping.

    Yeah that's pretty crazy, but not as bad as the $122.00 I paid in shipping for some spikes from abroad. Sometimes you have to pay the piper to get what you want.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • teekay0007
    teekay0007 Posts: 2,289
    edited May 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    Yeah that's pretty crazy, but not as bad as the $122.00 I paid in shipping for some spikes from abroad. Sometimes you have to pay the piper to get what you want.

    Therein lies the problem. Of course you're more likely to pay more for spikes from abroad. Should have looked into getting them from adude.
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  • PolkieMan
    PolkieMan Posts: 2,446
    edited May 2013
    Soooo if a dude looks like a lady then you must be pretty abroad minded :cheesygrin:
    teekay0007 wrote: »
    Therein lies the problem. Of course you're more likely to pay more for spikes from abroad. Should have looked into getting them from adude.
    POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
    POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
    PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
    POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
    ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1
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  • jon s
    jon s Posts: 905
    edited May 2013
    You guys in Canada don't have it as bad as people in Hawaii and Alaska. I had to ship an amp for repair to St Louis, MO. The shipping charge was $500 round trip. I sent a broken Denon DVD player to NJ, and that was $250 one way (they paid for the return)....

    I also bought a couple of subs and plate amps from Part Express, about 75 lbs total. That was about $500 shipping via UPS ground.
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