What kind of oil do you guys put on those SDA's?
These SDA's are looking kind of dry, a few scratches here and there but the wood is marvelous. What kind of oil do you guys put on those SDA's CRS's? Whatever you know about these speakers, please do tell. Walnut veneer?
Post edited by Brusco on
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Castrol 10w40 :cheesygrin:--Gary--
Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out. -
Thanks for your suggestion Gary. Plain old lemon oil containing nothing else, no silicone or waxes, etc.. Is more what I was thinking. I use on my fretboards to keep them from drying out, so why not on speakers right?
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Castrol 10w40 :cheesygrin:
Try 15W40, has more zinc than 10W40, beneficial for older wood..use it in my vintage motor, older engines require more zinc, same goes for older vintage wood -
oh, so zinc works better than the blue pill?
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Lol!Home Theater
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snake oil
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No, but seriously, I guess it was a dumb question to begin with.
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Aren't there specific oils for unfinished wood? I have a vintage teak occasional table that I use special teak oil on every few months to keep it looking nice.2 Channel - Polk SDA-2BTL, Carver TFM-35, Peachtree iDAC, Qobuz streamed via Episode Lynk using bubble UPnP server
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What kind of oil do you guys put on those SDA's CRS's?
Danish oil (an oil/varnish blend) or the like will do the trick.
Lemon oil is an oily mineral spirits product (pretty much the same as the mineral oil at the drug store) with lemon scent added. Basically worthless as it starts to evaporate the minute you put it on.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Do you hear that buzzing noise?
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I have a vintage teak occasional table that I use special teak oil on every few months to keep it looking nice.
There's nothing special about it but the price. It will be either tung oil, polymerized tung oil or an oil/varnish mix. Is it glossy, dull or satin after you apply it?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
The one I use leaves the wood slightly glossy. It's made by watco, they call is "teak oil" and describe it as a penetrating oil that hardens in the wood, not on the wood. Recommended for teak, mahogany, and rosewood. I know a lot of people use it to restore unfinished teak patio furniture.2 Channel - Polk SDA-2BTL, Carver TFM-35, Peachtree iDAC, Qobuz streamed via Episode Lynk using bubble UPnP server
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That's an oil/varnish blend and like I said, there's nothing special about it. The same is sold with a different name by many different brands.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Makes sense, the price wasn't terribly special either, just the fact that it described the exact use I had in mine. It does smell quite nice though!That's an oil/varnish blend and like I said, there's nothing special about it. The same is sold with a different name by many different brands.2 Channel - Polk SDA-2BTL, Carver TFM-35, Peachtree iDAC, Qobuz streamed via Episode Lynk using bubble UPnP server
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I didn't realize when I posted this that there is a Vintage Speakers forum. I should've posted it there. Anyway, these speakers are very dull and dry looking at the moment. I think the wood could use some oil. I find treating wood always turns into a big debate because there's an overwhelming amount of wood finishing products on the market.
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ambiophonics wrote: »The one I use leaves the wood slightly glossy. It's made by watco, they call is "teak oil" and describe it as a penetrating oil that hardens in the wood, not on the wood. Recommended for teak, mahogany, and rosewood. I know a lot of people use it to restore unfinished teak patio furniture.
That could just mean it's thinned down. I know when I did the maple veneer job on my SDA's and finished with tung oil, the first coat is meant to be thinned down 1:1, so that it penetrates the wood. I did 5 coats total, the first was thinned, the rest were not.Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance. -
Give Howard's Restore-A-Finish a try.
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My CRS+'s have laminate veneer so not sure if any oil helps.
For wood veneer, tung, howards, lemon whatever works.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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For wood veneer, tung, howards, lemon whatever works.
Well no, not whatever works. There are specfic products for specfic jobs. As noted above, lemon oil (mineral oil) is absolutely worthless. Howard's is a shellac based product that is meant to be used over an exsiting clear coat (not an oil finish) finish that has seen better days. It's a band-aid at best. If a clear coat finish has seen better days, get it refinished.I know when I did the maple veneer job on my SDA's and finished with tung oil,
There's pure tung oil and then there's polymerized tung oil, very different products and both are different than the oil/varnish blend he used.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I used pure tung oil.Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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Which is perfectly fine as long as one does try to build up the finish too much as it remains relatively soft in it's cured state.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Right. I love the look of it. It barely looks like there is a finish at all, but it gave a very slight amber hue to the maple.Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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I'm going for the no finish look. I want to keep the dry look but deepen the grain. Also these probably have never been treated so I think they're long overdue. I just want to go for the Pledge look without using Pledge.
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My last post should have read...
Which is perfectly fine as long as one does NOT try to build up the finish too much as it remains relatively soft in it's cured state.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
