What's The Best Glue To Use For Repair?

Gatecrasher
Gatecrasher Posts: 1,550
edited April 2013 in Vintage Speakers
I wanted to see what everyone was using to re-glue the rear corner trim pieces on Polk speakers?

I have some Rt3000p satellites with loose trim pieces and need to glue them back on.

IMG_2710.JPG


Super Glue doesn't seem to hold up.

What should I try next JB Weld?
Post edited by Gatecrasher on

Comments

  • chefkungfu
    chefkungfu Posts: 638
    edited April 2013
    Hey Gatecrasher, not sure if this can work, but you can try hot glue. If you have the gun and sticks, it's worth a shot!
    Frank.
    SRT Seismic System with dual PSW1200's
    RT5000 x 2
    RT2000p
    CS400i
    CS350-LS
    LS F/X
    PSW650
    PSW1000 w/Dayton SPA1000
    DSW MicroPro 4000
    Adcom amps
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    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable
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    BJC
  • chefkungfu
    chefkungfu Posts: 638
    edited April 2013
    Oh almost forgot, make sure you clean off all residue before trying the hot glue.
    SRT Seismic System with dual PSW1200's
    RT5000 x 2
    RT2000p
    CS400i
    CS350-LS
    LS F/X
    PSW650
    PSW1000 w/Dayton SPA1000
    DSW MicroPro 4000
    Adcom amps
    Pioneer Elite SC-89
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable
    PS4
    XBOX One
    MIT Interconnects
    BJC
  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,648
    edited April 2013
    Actually, 3M spray contact adhesive would work best.
    It is used to adhere laminate to new countertops and the like.

    Ideally, you would spray a light coat on the trim piece and a light coat on the location on the speaker where the trim resides, let it sit for ~1 minute and then stick them together. That process involves a lot of masking to avoid overspray but is also the best bet.
    Once the trim is placed, you can unmask and wipe off any overspray with lacquer thinner (be careful around the painted parts as the lacquer thinner will strip the paint.)
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
  • chefkungfu
    chefkungfu Posts: 638
    edited April 2013
    +1!! Even better solution!! I just used some to re-attach the head-liner in my old Mustang! Should have seen this.
    Excellent example!
    SRT Seismic System with dual PSW1200's
    RT5000 x 2
    RT2000p
    CS400i
    CS350-LS
    LS F/X
    PSW650
    PSW1000 w/Dayton SPA1000
    DSW MicroPro 4000
    Adcom amps
    Pioneer Elite SC-89
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable
    PS4
    XBOX One
    MIT Interconnects
    BJC
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    edited April 2013
    ZLTFUL wrote: »
    Actually, 3M spray contact adhesive would work best.
    It is used to adhere laminate to new countertops and the like.

    Ideally, you would spray a light coat on the trim piece and a light coat on the location on the speaker where the trim resides, let it sit for ~1 minute and then stick them together. That process involves a lot of masking to avoid overspray but is also the best bet.
    Once the trim is placed, you can unmask and wipe off any overspray with lacquer thinner (be careful around the painted parts as the lacquer thinner will strip the paint.)

    ^^^^^^this but I'd get a brush on instead. make sure you do both parts as contact cement only sticks to contact cement.
  • Gatecrasher
    Gatecrasher Posts: 1,550
    edited April 2013
    Which 3M contact adhesive? They make like 10 different types.

    http://www.acfcom.com/product_profiles/3M_bonding/3M-bond_main.htm

    It would be nice to get one that you can brush on.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    edited April 2013
    Which 3M contact adhesive? They make like 10 different types.

    http://www.acfcom.com/product_profiles/3M_bonding/3M-bond_main.htm

    It would be nice to get one that you can brush on.

    Doesn't have to be 3m your local hardware store will have a brush on. One word of CAUTION get it straight the first time cause you only have one shot usually. line it up at the top and fold over towards the front if you get my drift...

    when it sticks it's not maybe IT IS STUCK!

    if you must get spray the 77 is what i have used in the past for car headliner works very well.
  • Gatecrasher
    Gatecrasher Posts: 1,550
    edited April 2013
    Looking online at Home Depot and Lowes, all they have is Dap contact adhesive gel. Anyone use that?

    070798253124.jpg
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,802
    edited April 2013
    Contact adhesives are very good; just be sure to follow the directions exactly - most of them require that you coat both surfaces with a thin, even coating of the adhesive, let it dry, then push the two surfaces together to bond. That's the way the stuff works.

    I also want to put in a word about "super glue"; i.e., cyanoacrylate adhesives. This class of glues really is super, but you've gotta use the right tool for the job. The so-called "thin CA" (which is what you'll usually find in the hardware stores) is fine for certain things but cannot fill gaps. The medium and thick grades of CA are much better adhesives for the kind of stuff I want to glue together! :-) I learned about this stuff when my son was interested (early adolescence) in R/C aircraft. That phase came and went, but I keep a stock of thin, medium, and thick CA as well as CA debonder for when things go wrong!

    FWIW, here's my usual source for CA adhesives:
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=&FVSEARCH=%3CB%3Ecyano%3C%2FB%3Eacrylate+glues
  • Gatecrasher
    Gatecrasher Posts: 1,550
    edited April 2013
    Thanks for the replies. This is a pretty-common issue with vintage Polk speakers like the RT3000p that has plastic trim on the back edges. I'm really looking for a proven winner that forum members have actually used for this exact purpose that has stood the test of time.
  • halo71
    halo71 Posts: 4,603
    edited April 2013
    You are over thinking this. Titebond or even Gorilla Glue will work great.
    --Gary--
    Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out.
  • Gatecrasher
    Gatecrasher Posts: 1,550
    edited April 2013
    Well I took the piece of trim and went to Home Depot and asked the rep there what he recommended and he pointed me to the Dap contact cement. They had small bottles so I didn't have to buy the big can. I just finished gluing one speaker. I followed the directions exactly as mhardy6647 recommended and we'll see how it works. I think it's going to work great though.

    I have another one to do yet.

    Thanks guys.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    edited April 2013
    5 minute epoxy would have done the trick. Use blue masking tape as a clamp.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • David R
    David R Posts: 134
    edited April 2013
    I used spray contact cement to repair my Crown speaker's and timewindow's speaker cloth. For the tough jobs I used J-B weld – KwikWeld.
    Panasonic 65" Plasma - Panasonic Blu-ray. Onkyo TX-NR809 RTi A7s fronts - MK CS150s surronds.
  • Gatecrasher
    Gatecrasher Posts: 1,550
    edited April 2013
    Well I am very pleased with the DAP Weldwood contact cement.

    I think that's what I'm using from now on.

    No clamping required and easy to control.