Found a cool way to clean the inside of an amp...........

Unknown
edited April 2013 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Strip it to nothing!:lol:

Makes it alot easier!

Lots of new stuff going into this B&K ST2140.:cheesygrin:
Got the final piece in the mail today (new 5 way binding posts).

More pics to come.......


ST2140016_zps9b020e21.jpg
Post edited by Unknown User on

Comments

  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited April 2013
    I place mine in the pool for a quick rinse.

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2013
    Going to have some parts left over when I get done "cleaning this amp".

    Molex connectors solderED to the board?
    No More!

    Going to be KILLER wire soldered directly to the board, no more molex!:evil:

    ST2140014_zps6b027e5e.jpg
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2013
    If you look closely, you will see a red wire cut in the center of each board (dual mono design).

    Those are the speaker wire outputs, and getting ready to be killer wire there also.:cheesygrin:
    Common ground amp, so the (-) neg speaker output is not visible.

    Nordost?
    Solid core 6N OCC copper 16 ga.?
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2013
    Thinking about replacing the "push button" on/off switch with a cool LED toggle switch.

    New Furutech IEC input, new XLO X-10 power cable (internally), Neotech solid core silver/teflon directly from the board (was Molex) to AudioNote silver rca inputs.


    I have a rather large list of "To Do's" on this amp.

    I'll have more pic's ect. latter on, and if there is something you might want to do to your amp that is similar to all the mods I am doing, I might be able to help.
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  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,305
    edited April 2013
    Nice overhaul project Pep, bring it to LSAF
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2013
    With the AudioNote silver binding posts (I put in previously).

    XLO X-10 (Awesome power cable).
    I simply strip the raw conductors out and use them to wire the new IEC input, and to transformer barrier strip.

    ST2140005_zps7662c0e0.jpg
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  • Drenis
    Drenis Posts: 2,871
    edited April 2013
    Paul I'm jealous!

    That is one amp I reaaaly want to hear after my short time with one. My buddy wont give it up!

    Needs a bigger tranny while you're at it :razz:
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,305
    edited April 2013
    Are you just rewiring or you refreshing/upgrading of any caps
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2013
    Wassssssup Andre?

    It sounds pretty good now.
    I have a little Rotel that is dual mono and has separate transformers, but it does not have quiet the "umph" this B&K does.

    You never know how this will go.
    Always the chance of having too much "silver".

    I like silver in my kit, and incorporate it here and there, but it is a fine line.
    You go too far over that mark, and it is sad face.:redface:

    I have done alot on this amp in the past so I am familiar.
    I am going on "instincts" at this point.

    Quick fix if I go too far!:lol:
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  • codyc1ark
    codyc1ark Posts: 2,532
    edited April 2013
    Nothing to see here, folks. Move along, move along..
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2013
    txcoastal1 wrote: »
    Are you just rewiring or you refreshing/upgrading of any caps

    I thought about it, but it sounds really good as is (or as was), and I can always replace caps, r's latter on if I want to.
    It has Dale resistors and Rubycon caps right now.

    I will write down what I did and list it latter on.
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  • Drenis
    Drenis Posts: 2,871
    edited April 2013
    That amp did something right to the A9's when I moved the Carver out of the way for a ST2140. Wont forget how much better those speakers sounded. Definitely want to hear it on SDA's.
    pepster wrote: »

    I like silver in my kit, and incorporate it here and there, but it is a fine line.
    You go too far over that mark, and it is sad face.:redface:

    Never played with silver.
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2013
    Drenis wrote: »
    That amp did something right to the A9's when I moved the Carver out of the way for a ST2140. Wont forget how much better those speakers sounded. Definitely want to hear it on SDA's.



    Never played with silver.


    Silver on the rca inputs, nothing but copper from board to binding posts.
    Match made in heaven.:cheesygrin:
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2013
    So you know, I put the caps from the ST 2140 on top of the caps in a Rotel dual mono (Rotel has dual tranny's:cheesygrin:).

    Does not matter what so ever, but I posted this just for size comparison, nothing more.

    ST21403006_zpsf1d5fdc3.jpg


    Got the IC (rca) input Molex plug off the board, cleaning it up alittle and getting ready to install Neotech 24 ga 7N pure silver solid core directly to the board (Minus the Molex plugs) after alitle more cleaning.

    ST21403001_zpsc8791da6.jpg

    ST21403002_zpsf3939f1f.jpg
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2013
    I have had this amp for 4 or 5 years, so I am familiar.
    I was beginning to wonder if these minor changes were going to be worth the effort.

    Just getting rid of the Molex plugs in the signal path board, and the factory silver plated copper wire from board to binding posts.
    I thought putting pure copper (no silver plating) from board to binding posts would make the difference.

    I can say without a doubt, well worth it!:cheesygrin:
    This amp has never had the detail it does now.


    No more Molex, now Neotech pure silver/teflon solid core directly to the board!

    Finally003_zps465b3845.jpg

    New binding posts, straight copper wire (stripped from River Cable flexygy 6 speaker wire), straight from board to binding posts.

    Finally004_zps1b1af265.jpg

    Had to build another dim bulb tester to test this amp after all the work was done, just to make sure all was well before plugging it into the wall socket.

    NEVER sounded this good!
    Beyond my expectations so far.
    Tickeled to death, with the detail, slam, ect.
    Top end is to die for!

    Going to give it some time to burn everything in alittle, and still have to figure out which IEC input I am going to use, I have Furutech, Oyaide, and Acme on hand.
    Running stock IEC with Furutech fuse for now.


    I still have the face plate off, but.........SHE LIVES!

    Finally2005_zps0a2c998f.jpg
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  • Drenis
    Drenis Posts: 2,871
    edited April 2013
    Change the LED color while your at it.

    Also, I call dibs on this when you sell it.
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2013
    Drenis wrote: »
    Change the LED color while your at it.

    Also, I call dibs on this when you sell it.

    I wanted to put a nice blue LED toggle in it, but can't find one (and change the power light to blue).:redface:

    Got a few more suspects laying around here that are going to get some upgrades.

    Initial impressions...........its not going anywhere.:cheesygrin:

    Tickled pink at the moment with it.


    Got a few more mid-fi components I need to "get a plan together" for (beats sitting around and rotting):

    Ref20001_zps06616299.jpg
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  • Drenis
    Drenis Posts: 2,871
    edited April 2013
    One sold not long ago with a Blue LED... Go do it! :razz:
  • headrott
    headrott Posts: 5,496
    edited April 2013
    Trust me, use an Oyaide Inlet R IEC connector. I have used Furutech, and this relatively new Oyaide Inlet r, and the Oyaide Inlet R is definately better than the Furutch (in the same price range). However, I haven't used the $100.00+ Furutech. I installed the Oyaide Inlet R into my BAT VK-200 amp and it was definately a worthwhile upgrade.
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....


    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee