Enlarging amp cover openings Rogue?

charley95
charley95 Posts: 908
edited March 2013 in 2 Channel Audio
Took the plunge and got my quad today of KT-120's from McShane design out of Chicago. He packs them very well indeed,no damage that I can see. My amp came stock with KT-90's and now they come stock with 120's. In order for the 120's to fit in the amp cover openings you either need socket extenders or enlarge the openings or, buy new cover from Rogue [$130] How can these holes be enlarged without damaging the existing cover? Any ideas? Not trying to be cheap I'll buy new cover if needed but, I thought someone here might have a clever idea.
Post edited by charley95 on

Comments

  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    edited March 2013
    Have you removed the cover and installed the 120's yet? I'm curious as to what you experience with the new bottles!

    Do you have any "small" Machine Shops in your area that might enlarge the holes for you? "If" a guy had a drill press and the right sized "hole bit" I'd say it could be a DIY project...just a thought.

    I really think the socket extenders would be the most cost friendly way to go, "if" they were tall enough to get through the cover and still have a little breathing room around the base of the tubes, as you know, they get hot.
  • brgman
    brgman Posts: 2,859
    edited March 2013
    How much are the extenders?
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  • michaeljhsda2
    michaeljhsda2 Posts: 2,184
    edited March 2013
    charley95 wrote: »
    you either need socket extenders

    Cautionary Tale: I had a very bad experience using the socket extenders. I installed them in a Yaqin MC-10L amp and they fit so tight that when I tried to remove them, it damaged tube socket V2 and it also took out one of the resistors. Cost me $150.00 to have the amp repaired. I'll never do that again. My .02 cents.
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  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,498
    edited March 2013
    I've used step drills in a drill press for panel holes. You can enlarge existing holes with it too. I wouldn't use a hole saw. Depends on size of hole you need as the ones I've seen locally only go up to 1 &3/8. I tape the panel on both sides, clamp panel down, drill half way through and flip panel to finish drilling so I wouldn't end up with nasty burr on edge.

    31-PYnvrhsL.jpg

    Here is an example of what I did with a step drill on a Hagerman Coronet II phono pre I built for Carl. No collateral damage to finish on panel. Nice clean hole.

    h23.jpg
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    edited March 2013
    Cautionary Tale: I had a very bad experience using the socket extenders. I installed them in a Yaqin MC-10L amp and they fit so tight that when I tried to remove them, it damaged tube socket V2 and it also took out one of the resistors. Cost me $150.00 to have the amp repaired. I'll never do that again. My .02 cents.

    Well charley, looks like Michael has been the guinea pig on that idea, could be a problem for sure.

    SCompRacer wrote: »
    I've used step drills in a drill press for panel holes. You can enlarge existing holes with it too. I wouldn't use a hole saw. Depends on size of hole you need as the ones I've seen locally only go up to 1 &3/8. I tape the panel on both sides, clamp panel down, drill half way through and flip panel to finish drilling so I wouldn't end up with nasty burr on edge.

    [img]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31-PYnvrhsL.jpg[/img Here is an example of what I did with a step drill on a Hagerman Coronet II phono pre I built for Carl. No collateral damage to finish on panel. Nice clean hole.[/img]h23.jpg

    Very good advise, and nice work btw. I've seen this type of bit, but have never used one. A new cover might be the way to go.
  • charley95
    charley95 Posts: 908
    edited March 2013
    Cautionary Tale: I had a very bad experience using the socket extenders. I installed them in a Yaqin MC-10L amp and they fit so tight that when I tried to remove them, it damaged tube socket V2 and it also took out one of the resistors. Cost me $150.00 to have the amp repaired. I'll never do that again. My .02 cents.

    Thats good to know. I got 4 for 16 bucks. I spoke with Mark at Rogue last week and he said it would probably be ok to use them.
    Now that you mention this I might be a little gun shy on using the extenders. I might just go ahead and order the cover from them for $130. I'm not going to chintz on a $2300 amp. Mike: Machine shops don't even exist here in central Ill. anymore. The trend in automotive now is to replace rather than machine something. The shops locally have been closing the past several years. I have to wait a few weeks before I hook it up, new media stand is on order from furniture store.
  • charley95
    charley95 Posts: 908
    edited March 2013
    I think I'm going to do a little digging around town the next few days and see if I find a place to enlrge the holes. If I don't find anyone that can enlarge the openings safely without damaging the cover then, I'll just order a new cover. Caution from Mike is making me think not to even try the extenders. So, in essence, why would you put Wal-Mart tires on your new Corvette? I'm sure anxious to hear these 120's when the new entertainment center arrives.
  • ratster
    ratster Posts: 324
    edited March 2013
    Dremel?
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  • charley95
    charley95 Posts: 908
    edited March 2013
    SCompRacer wrote: »
    I've used step drills in a drill press for panel holes. You can enlarge existing holes with it too. I wouldn't use a hole saw. Depends on size of hole you need as the ones I've seen locally only go up to 1 &3/8. I tape the panel on both sides, clamp panel down, drill half way through and flip panel to finish drilling so I wouldn't end up with nasty burr on edge.

    31-PYnvrhsL.jpg

    Here is an example of what I did with a step drill on a Hagerman Coronet II phono pre I built for Carl. No collateral damage to finish on panel. Nice clean hole.

    h23.jpg

    Hole needs to be 1&3/4 at least. If I could find a bit that size I would pay you to do it if you'd be willing? I drive to the city quite a bit and pass through Plainfield all the time. Base of 120 is 1&5/8
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,498
    edited March 2013
    charley95 wrote: »
    Hole needs to be 1&3/4 at least. If I could find a bit that size I would pay you to do it if you'd be willing? I drive to the city quite a bit and pass through Plainfield all the time. Base of 120 is 1&5/8

    I work cheap, I'd do it for a Coca-Cola.:cheesygrin: I don't think you'll find a step drill that size though. I searched on-line and couldn't find any larger than what I have (1 & 3/8). Since you are enlarging an existing hole, a hole saw won't have a pilot hole to stabilize on. Even clamped to a thick backing block of steel for the pilot drill, I don't think a carbide hole saw will leave a clean enough hole. Being that it is exposed, you'd want it to look nice.

    Is the cover steel or aluminum?
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • charley95
    charley95 Posts: 908
    edited March 2013
    SCompRacer wrote: »
    I work cheap, I'd do it for a Coca-Cola.:cheesygrin: I don't think you'll find a step drill that size though. I searched on-line and couldn't find any larger than what I have (1 & 3/8). Since you are enlarging an existing hole, a hole saw won't have a pilot hole to stabilize on. Even clamped to a thick backing block of steel for the pilot drill, I don't think a carbide hole saw will leave a clean enough hole. Being that it is exposed, you'd want it to look nice.

    Is the cover steel or aluminum?

    I'm guessing it is steel. I figured a bit that large would be hard to find. Thanks for your offer. We usually drive to the city on weekends just to have dinner on a whim, go figure! I'll probably just order a new one from Rogue. Really anxious to hear how the 120's are going to sound. Love the looks of your setup on the showcase!