Car Gurus: How do I change a serpentine belt on a front wheel drive?

heartystatue

BTW check to see if the belt is cracking on the rib side around one of the pulleys. If no cracks my suspicion would be a faulty tensioner. Even though they are spring loaded they do go bad and would be a warranty covered item. Also sometimes belts do stretch and break the tensile members holding the belt together. I agree still should be a warranty covered item. As I like to say from time to time Get in there ****.

avelanchefan

Moose68Bash wrote: »

Serendipity,

Don't let these guys make you feel guilty for buying the car you wanted to buy. There is principle in Total Quality Management/Total Quality Control ("TQM" or "TQC") to which I am sure Nissan subscribes in one form or another.

This principle addresses a concept called "Design for Use." It means that the engineering of the vehicle should be designed in such a way as to meet expected driving conditions. It is the manufacturer's representative's responsibility to ask you, the customer, how you plan to use the vehicle he/she is trying to sell you. If he/she didn't ask you this fundamental question because selling the car was more important than meeting your needs and expectations, then it's his/her "bad," not yours. If the literature that advertised the vehicle or came with it did not specify that it should not be used for extensive driving in high-traffic conditions, Nissan's "bad," not yours. Really, do you believe driving in Tokyo does not involve stop and go traffic? Been there, done that! It does! Beats New York IMHO.

The manufacturer should remedy their mistake, not send you off to pay for the repair.

As one of Japan's leading auto manufacturers, I am sure Nissan follows TQM/TQC practices, and I'm sure that if you persist you will "win." My argument with Lexus about the operation of the passenger-side seat in the LS400 I purchased in 1991 revolved around the salesperson's statement that the passenger seat in the front "operated just like the driver's seat." This statement was false. When we took delivery of the car, my wife could not adjust the seat up and down. Consequently, she couldn't ride as a passenger in the foothills of the SF Bay Area without becoming nauseous. After my persistence, Lexus actually offered to take the car back and fully refund our money -- purchase price, taxes, licensing fees, etc.

I loved the car, I proposed another solution which Lexus implemented without cost to us. Lexus's action is what Japanese TQM/TQA is all about. Go for it.

Well said Moose.....he is asking for help guys....not a lecture on why he bought this vehicle. But I would go back to dealership....make a bog stink about. Tell them you are not leaving until you get this resolved. I am a wimp at doing that, but I have watched my wife raise holy hell a few times at the stealership....she got what she wanted.

So they screwed over my mother in law about 6 months ago....charged her 300 dollars for new battery cables (Honda CRV). Well long story short we end up with the vehicle, a month after battery cables are installed, we have complete electric meltdown, and after popping the hood, you could clearly see it started at the battery cables. Honda rep told me it was the alternator going bad and sending reverse/negative voltage to car....burning up the cables. To which I said "I am not no effing idiot and I want to speak to head service manager now." At the end of the day they admitted the mistake and took care of everything. Finally stood my ground and I got what I deserved.

Now obviously I know your situation is different, but the philosophy is the same. The dealership is in a business, and sending you on your way while leaving you to find your own solution saves them money. I would go back and talk to the service rep again, if he gives you the same story, ask to speak to the manager, if he does not resolve it ask to speak to dealership manager....keep going higher.

gdb

114 mm wrench ?? :eek:

heartystatue

Yea yea, Typing too fast. Oops 14mm.

ken brydson

gdb wrote: »

114 mm wrench ?? :eek:

Beat me to it. That would be a big **** wrench....

jbooker82

Serendipity wrote: »

It's my first stick car, so I didn't really know what to expect other than "it's fun to drive" and "it's more engaging than an automatic," which was what I was told by people such as Bigaudiofanatic. I quickly found out it was not much fun after driving in NYC traffic for a day. By that time I had already put 100 miles on the car (mostly learning miles) and figured I would get used to it. I'm not sure if I would ever buy a manual again unless I lived in a rural area. It's just too much work to deal with slow moving traffic.

All I drive is manual transmissions. If you have only had the car a year you still haven't drove it long enough to get use to it. After a while shifting becomes second nature and you dont even think about it. Before you know it your left calf will be noticably larger than your right one from all the clutching.

Creeping forward wtih the clutch half out is super hard on them. Ethire let it out and go a couple car lenghts or push it in and coast. Idealy you shouldnt coast with the clutch in. Kick it in neutral and let the clutch out. Dont rest your foot on the pedal. When ever your foot is on the pedal the throw out bearing is press against the pressure plate spinning / wearing out. It also causes slight clutch slippage wich causes heat, and clutch failure. The dealer can tell weather a clutch went out on its own or if it was misuse. Most clutches arent included in a warrent because they are wear items. Just like brake shoes.

strider

Not to add more rain on the already wet parade, a drive belt is only covered 12 months or 12000 miles under Nissan's warranty. Belt tensioner, different story, but a belt is considered a wear item. That be ing said, it is abnormal to need a belt at that mileage, and I wouldnt be happy if I had to pay to replace it either.

Did you try Youtube for instructions?

unc2701

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQhfcdQf1QA

Oh wait, wrong car.