1999 Silverado UPDATE "I'm almost in Heaven"

MrDHEJ

Ok, I got the MM6's and the MMC460's in the truck yesterday. This combination was almost a perfect fit.

The only cutting I had to do was cut small pieces out so the spring nuts would fit. In the front doors they roll the edges of the speaker hole to add rigidity. So I had to remove the rolled edge in four spots so the spring clips would slide on. In the back I just needed to enlarge the hole a little. The tweeters do fit in the spot the factory tweeters were at, but there’s a huge gap around it, so I need to get some plastic sheet to cover that hole and remount the tweeter later. I pointed the tweeters up and it sounded great.

I forgot just how good the Polks sound. Even running off the deck "22rms" I was surprised at how tight the MM6's were in the bass and mid bass area. The mid's were just as impressive. The highs I set to -3 on the crossover and it was perfect. I cannot wait to get 150watts with the TU-600 on these.

The MMC460's in the rear put off some nice high bass as well. Very impressive for such a small speaker.


I was able to speak with a techie at US Amps about wire and fuses. He told me with my combination of amps "TU-600, USA-200x, USA-600x" 4g from the battery to the distribution block would be more then enough, 0g would be like using a tank for gopher hunting. Fuses he suggested 80amp for the 600x, 60amp for the TU-600, and 20amp for the 200x, and a 150amp ANL fuse at the battery. I'm going to run a 1-farad cap to clean up the power, and I’ve got a 3way Maxi fuse block to hold the fuses.

The MM124 and 600x should be here tomorrow, but I’ve been lazy this week on building the box. I was thinking about using some 3/4" cabinet grade birch plywood as was discussed in the other thread, but I will probably build it from MDF first "MDF is tons cheaper, if I mess up" then I’ll have both boxes later on and I can do a compare and contrast.

Thanks again guys for all your help.

David

MTXMAN

Originally posted by MrDHEJ
using a tank for gopher hunting.

sounds like a good time to me ;D

let me know how good the mm6's sound off of that TU-600, I can't wait till i can get the 500 together to get that amp... hopefully a christmass present for myself

PoweredByDodge

150 amps through 4 gauge? --- is he on acid?

150A = 2 gauge

150A is about what you'd expect to run like a 1500 watt class D sub amp off of ... that's a 2 gauge requirement.

i dunno... just my 2 cents, but lets add up power -- you'r enot briding the tube, so its stereo at 150 x 2, that's 300.

then you're runnin the rears at 50 x 2, that's another 100.

and 600 to the sub... that's 1,000 watts.

1,000 / 0.65 = 1,538 / 14.4 = 106.8 amps

if you really want to be meticulous about this... put a 40A fuse on the TU600, put a 15 (or 20 might be the smallest u can get) amp fuse on the USA200, and put a 75 A fuse on the US600X.

for your main line fuse at the battery ... I would put a 125A ANL wafer fuse and again, I would run 2 gauge.

you are in that "muddy water" region... 4 gauge would be "barely enough" -- i suppose, but 2 gauge would be "much better suited to your needs" since 2 gauge is like what you'd want for that 100 to 175 range.

MrDHEJ

Well, i took the advice the tech gave and ordered the 4g. Should be here tomorrow, i hope he didn't give me bad advice on this.

MTXMAN

another upside of 2 ga is headroom if you ever want to upgrade

MrDHEJ

I won't upgrade with what i'm putting in there. I just hope 4g is going to be ok now that you show concern. but even the cap i got will only accept 4g.

sntnsupermen131

what cap did you get?
caps can accept any gauge wire, well all caps ive seen, all it is is a bolt, put the end of the wire on a ring clamp, and put it through the bolt...
did the tech tell you that too?
lol
you should be alright with 4gauge, but 2 gauge wouldve suited your needs better, its always better to have a little bigger wire...but 4gauge should be ok
-Cody

MrDHEJ

I got "the Mysterious power" 1 farad cap with voltage read out. It has a distribution block mounted on top. I'm not tottaly sure, but looks like the holes for the power wire is for 4g.

Do you know the diameter "in milimeters" of 0g and 2g wire?

sntnsupermen131

not off the top of my head, go to www.knukonceptz.com , it might tell you what the diameter of the wire is, they have wire connectors where you can feed in 2 gauge and itll come out 4 gauge
-Cody

MrDHEJ

Well, after doing some caculations, taking all of your suggestions, i'm going to put 0g for the power and ground. Gonna waste some money and time shipping stuff back that won't fit, but better now, then later and be sorry.

It almost completly left my mind, but the wifes car would not have a chance with 4g running 15 to 20ft with 900 watts. So least there is a plus.

From what i could gather, 0g is about 11.1mm in diameter. My cap has the machined blocks on top and there 10.2mm diameter, so i can drill those out a tad. The distribution blocks i'm not sure of yet, but they will be here saturday.

/sigh

MTXMAN

you could save a little cash by taking the middle road and running 2 ga. plenty of power handling and it's easier to run and cheaper than 0ga

PoweredByDodge

... told em 2 gauge was plenty fine ---- and over at 15 foot - 20 foot run, ya, still 2 gauge is like "perfect". 4 gauge with a 150 amp current is fine for like 3 feet or so, but once u get to 15-ish it's not so happpy.

anywho -- whatever makes u happy dude... if u're happier with 4, do 4, with 0, do 0... whatever works.

i'm still all for the 2 gauge, and if i hadn't done the cadillac already, i'd of traded you 20 feet of 2 gauge for 20 feet of 4 gauge -- straight up, cuz i didn't need the 2 gauge for that car, i only used it because i had 20 some odd feet laying around, and it was "cheaper" to use what was laying in my closet than to go out and buy X feet of 4 gauge. but the car's already done and buttoned up and i've got no aspirations of ripping it apart.