I finally got a pair of SDA 2A's
doctorolds
Posts: 12
I would first like to say hello to all of the Club Polk members since this is my first post here. As the title of the post indicates, I just acquired a pair of SDA 2A's. I have been reading quite a few other posts to obtain a bit of knowledge prior to posting, in addition to the SDA Handbook and the information on Vr3 website.
I have performed the DCR test on the speakers and I am reading 4.7 ohms on both speakers versus 4.0 ohms as indicated, is that acceptable? All other readings are as they should be. The speakers were said to be functional when I purchased them from the original owner but he had no equipment to test them with. One end of the IC has been damaged and electrical tape has been wrapped around it as a fix, but it tests out OK, no short across pin 1 and 2.
Should I look for or test for anything else prior to hooking them up for a test run? I would hate to damage my Sansui 9090 just because I was in a hurry to test them. Thanks to all.
I have performed the DCR test on the speakers and I am reading 4.7 ohms on both speakers versus 4.0 ohms as indicated, is that acceptable? All other readings are as they should be. The speakers were said to be functional when I purchased them from the original owner but he had no equipment to test them with. One end of the IC has been damaged and electrical tape has been wrapped around it as a fix, but it tests out OK, no short across pin 1 and 2.
Should I look for or test for anything else prior to hooking them up for a test run? I would hate to damage my Sansui 9090 just because I was in a hurry to test them. Thanks to all.
Post edited by doctorolds on
Comments
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Welcome to the forum!!
One test that is often overlooked is a basic test for the all of the drivers inside the cabinets being in phase, and all your connections having the correct polarity all the way back to the amp. It can easily be done with a 1.5 volt flashlight battery. Having everything in phase can make a HUGE difference in the way your SDAs will sound. Be sure you disconnect the Interconnect cable before doing the test.- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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doctorolds wrote: »I have performed the DCR test on the speakers and I am reading 4.7 ohms on both speakers versus 4.0 ohms as indicated, is that acceptable?
I'd be way less concerned about DC resistance measurements if the value you got was LOWER than spec. Higher than spec...hook 'em up and play music. -
doctorolds wrote: »I would first like to say hello to all of the Club Polk members since this is my first post here. As the title of the post indicates, I just acquired a pair of SDA 2A's. I have been reading quite a few other posts to obtain a bit of knowledge prior to posting, in addition to the SDA Handbook and the information on Vr3 website.
I have performed the DCR test on the speakers and I am reading 4.7 ohms on both speakers versus 4.0 ohms as indicated, is that acceptable? All other readings are as they should be. The speakers were said to be functional when I purchased them from the original owner but he had no equipment to test them with. One end of the IC has been damaged and electrical tape has been wrapped around it as a fix, but it tests out OK, no short across pin 1 and 2.
Should I look for or test for anything else prior to hooking them up for a test run? I would hate to damage my Sansui 9090 just because I was in a hurry to test them. Thanks to all.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
How much resistance is in your test leads? Did you "zero" the meter with the test leads in the circuit?
I'd be way less concerned about DC resistance measurements if the value you got was LOWER than spec. Higher than spec...hook 'em up and play music.
I think that you meant that you would be concerned if the measurement was lower than expected (i.e. something shorted). I agree with the reading being a little higher and will probably hook them up unless someone lets me know about something else to check. Thanks. -
Congrats on your new SDA's. I am new to the SDA game myself but it sounds like your off to the right start by doing your research. The SDA handbook is a great resource as well as the other members of this forum. They have been extremely helpful over the past couble of weeks with my SDA's.Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre -
doctorolds wrote: »I think that you meant that you would be concerned if the measurement was lower than expected (i.e. something shorted). I agree with the reading being a little higher and will probably hook them up unless someone lets me know about something else to check. Thanks.
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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Ignoring my recommendation may come back to haunt you...
I have seen this test mentioned before but do not know how it is done. Care to share?
Welcome Doc. You will find quite a few 2A owners lurking around. Enjoy -
littlewoodboats wrote: »I have seen this test mentioned before but do not know how it is done. Care to share?
Welcome Doc. You will find quite a few 2A owners lurking around. Enjoy
Man, I am doomed to the old fashioned Ear Test. If these ears don't dance.... the speakers get no Romance!!:biggrin::"if it's not fun, it's not worth it & remember folks, "It's All About The Music"!!
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Welcome! I am the original owner of 1A's and have since acquired 1.2TL's and 2A's. I did the tweeter and crossover upgrade on the 2A's and was very, very pleased with the result. I also upgraded the crossconnect. Presuming that your 2A's are stock, you will have fun modifying these.Speakers: Polk 1.2TL w/VR3 mods and Dreadnaught interconnects
Amplification: ARC Reference 110 w/KT150s; Cary Audio SLP-05 w/Ultimate Upgrade
Vinyl: VPI HW19 MK III (Heavily Modded); Origin Live Silver Tonearm; Hana ML Cart; Pete Riggle VTAF; VPI TNT Platter; SAMA; Iphono3
Digital: Aurender N100H; Benchmark DAC1 -
tophatjohnny wrote: »Man, I am doomed to the old fashioned Ear Test. If these ears don't dance.... the speakers get no Romance!!:biggrin::
Other than checking to make sure everything moves freely my ears have always been the test. I have seen mention of using a battery for testing but have not seen an explanation of what was being done. Just wish my dancing partners were not so pricey -
Ignoring my recommendation may come back to haunt you...
Well, he's probably ignoring it because you did such a sorry-assed job of explaining how to properly do the test and what exactly is a correct result vs. an incorrect result as well as what to do if an incorrect result is attained.
Yeah, that's right, go back and read your "recommendation" - here ya go, "It can easily be done with a 1.5 volt flashlight battery." On behalf of the new guy, thanks so much, that makes it clear as mud.
...with all due respect, of course. :cool:
Welcome to Club Polk, doctorolds! -
teekay0007 wrote: »Well, he's probably ignoring it because you did such a sorry-assed job of explaining how to properly do the test and what exactly is a correct result vs. an incorrect result as well as what to do if an incorrect result is attained.
Yeah, that's right, go back and read your "recommendation" - here ya go, "It can easily be done with a 1.5 volt flashlight battery." On behalf of the new guy, thanks so much, that makes it clear as mud.
...with all due respect, of course. :cool:
Welcome to Club Polk, doctorolds!- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
-
teekay0007 wrote: »Well, he's probably ignoring it because you did such a sorry-assed job of explaining how to properly do the test and what exactly is a correct result vs. an incorrect result as well as what to do if an incorrect result is attained.
Yeah, that's right, go back and read your "recommendation" - here ya go, "It can easily be done with a 1.5 volt flashlight battery." On behalf of the new guy, thanks so much, that makes it clear as mud.
...with all due respect, of course. :cool:
Welcome to Club Polk, doctorolds!- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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To the OP; Welcome and congrats. I own a pair of 2A's among other SDA models and many other speakers and the 2A's are my favorites from a pure listening standpoint.
To others here. This is this persons first thread on the forums and it seems to be getting touchy for some. Please in no way feel like i am being judgmental on this. I AM NOT. I have been guilty of being harsh and saying bad things on here as well. I can say I wish I hadn't done so but it doesn't change what I have already done in the past. I know we loose some good people because of harsh words sometimes as i have spoken to people outside this forum that have told me their reasons for not associating themselves with this forum. There are a lot of good and very intelligent people here. Again NOT judging. This just stood out to me being this persons very first thread, and how first impressions are so strong.If con is the opposite of pro, is Congress the opposite of Progress?!
Monitor 5Jr, Monitor 5, RTA12, RTA 15TL, SDA 2A, 1c, SRS 2, 1.2TL, CRS, Atrium. -
Welcome to the forum. SDA 2A's were my first pair (although I grew up as a kid with 2.3's in the house) and they are a great speaker.
Play those bad boys and tell us what you think, IF there are any problems, many around here would be glad to help.
What gear are you using? Is your room big enough for them? -
If I appeared to be harsh I apologize to doctorolds and everyone here . That was not my intention at all. I was trying to help doctorolds by suggesting the battery test. After all, he asked if anyone knew of more tests he should do. When I first got my CRS+ speakers I had no SDA sound. OldManSRS suggested that I test for the drivers being out of phase and check my wiring connections for correct polarity. The battery test helped me find that the previous owner had connected a new MW out of phase when he installed it. When I connected the driver properly there was a night and day difference in the sound. Here is link to that thread : http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?129314-CRS-Just-arrived-Need-help-checking-them-out.&highlight=battery
Knowing what a difference a driver being out of phase can make prompted me to say: "Ignoring my recommendation may come back to haunt you..." in hopes that doctorolds would be sure to check his speakers carefully. I had no intention to be harsh or disrespectful to doctorolds. I feel the response I got from teekay0007 was completely out of line. I'm sorry that my posts have got this thread do far off topic. I won't respond to any more accusations because it would only make things worse.- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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I was not familiar with your Sansui Model so did a quick search. You did not mention whether your 9090 was the DB model. The 9090 with no suffix does not seem to be four ohm stable. The DB model does make mention of four ohm operation.
I roasted a nice Yamaha Receiver with my 2A's so know first hand that it can happen.
Enjoy your speakers. While the blade/blade models do have limitations compared to their later siblings great sound is not one of the limitations. -
Sorry if this has already been mentioned. if polarity is a concern, it is easy enough on the 2A's to remove the drivers and compare the wiring to that in the sticky showing the schematics for theses speakers.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=26673&d=1186345413
if not good at reading schematics or comparing them to parts in the real world that's ok too. please someone else correct me if I'm wrong as it has been a while since i was inside my 2A's. I believe the white wires are negatives and the darker either black or blue wires are the positives. if someone else is very familiar with these can you please describe for the OP which colors should be exactly where on these. I can't get to mine to open them up currently.If con is the opposite of pro, is Congress the opposite of Progress?!
Monitor 5Jr, Monitor 5, RTA12, RTA 15TL, SDA 2A, 1c, SRS 2, 1.2TL, CRS, Atrium. -
When I first got my CRS+ speakers I had no SDA sound. OldManSRS suggested that I test for the drivers being out of phase and check my wiring connections for correct polarity. The battery test helped me find that the previous owner had connected a new MW out of phase when he installed it. When I connected the driver properly there was a night and day difference in the sound. Here is link to that thread : http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?129314-CRS-Just-arrived-Need-help-checking-them-out.&highlight=battery
See, TennMan, I knew that with a little prodding you could be very helpful. :razz: I'm just trying to encourage those who are trying to be helpful to actually be helpful. From the OP's post - his first post! - you can easily feel that he was burning at the bit to get those new-to-him SDAs fired up to see what they can do. He just didn't want to jump the gun if there was the possibility of doing any damage to them. Then you stepped in with the ominous statement: "Ignoring my recommendation may come back to haunt you..." all the more ominous with the trailing dot-dot-dot "...", as if his not following your recommendation might lead to some catastrophic consequences. Then, you gave him no direction as to how he might go about following your recommendation. That's not helpful. All you needed to do was guide him back - which you eventually did - to the thread from your early days in the SDA world when OldManSRS and others were very helpful in helping you get started on your journey. -
littlewoodboats wrote: »I was not familiar with your Sansui Model so did a quick search. You did not mention whether your 9090 was the DB model. The 9090 with no suffix does not seem to be four ohm stable. The DB model does make mention of four ohm operation....
I have a 9090, not a DB model. Here is an AK link that states that a 4 ohm load should be fine if your receiver is running properly. http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=339880&highlight=9090
I am always on the lookout for equipment, so hopefully I can find something in the 200 watt plus range soon. -
How much resistance is in your test leads? Did you "zero" the meter with the test leads in the circuit?
I'd be way less concerned about DC resistance measurements if the value you got was LOWER than spec. Higher than spec...hook 'em up and play music.
My leads when shorted read about 0.3 ohms, so that would put my readings at about 4.4 ohms. I think that this would be considered a good reading. -
I just want to say thanks to all for your feedback! A few pokes at another member and there replies only add a bit of character to the thread, I am not offended or nor does it reflect upon other forum members. I can't wait to hook them up, hopefully this weekend I will get a chance to give them some time.
By the way, has anyone removed the crap vinyl and put some wood veneer on them? -
doctorolds wrote: »By the way, has anyone removed the crap vinyl and put some wood veneer on them?
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?47178-Stripping-the-vinyl-veneer-off-monitor-10-s
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
I thought I would provide a quick update. The SDA's are fully functional and sound great, even though they were not setup properly in the middle of the garage. I posted a couple of pics in which you can see the grill cloth is coming loose, they have a bit of candle wax and nicks in the vinyl on the top near the back edge and around the bases. I cannot wait to perform a few upgrades, clean them up, and place them in a better position. I did not steal them but I don't think that $200 was to bad. What is your opinion?
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$200 is not bad at all when all drivers are working.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
...Be sure you disconnect the Interconnect cable before doing the test.
Why should we disconnect IC cable?
Doesn't that remove SDA drivers out of the test?
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
$200 is not bad at all when all drivers are working.
I don't think it's a bad price either, middle ground. I paid $150 for mine...Remember, when you're running from something, you're running to something...-me -
I checked all my SDA's with IC connected for battery test and all drivers including SDA drivers are in phase.
Why should we disconnect IC cable?
Doesn't that remove SDA drivers out of the test?
With the cable connected the SDA drivers can move out of phase when needed to cancel out crosstalk between the speakers giving the SDA sound that we all talk about. I don't know enough about crossover electronics to tell you how and when the SDA drivers operate in phase and out of phase in normal operation to work their magic. Maybe someone here with an electronics background could explain how it works.
I do remember when I was troubleshooting my speakers that the signal from the left speaker crossover goes through the right speaker crossover (and vice versa), so leaving the IC connected while testing one speaker could cause a problem when trying to determine if one speaker is in phase. That's why I said the IC should be disconnected.- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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I do remember when I was troubleshooting my speakers that the signal from the left speaker crossover goes through the right speaker crossover (and vice versa), so leaving the IC connected while testing one speaker could cause a problem when trying to determine if one speaker is in phase. That's why I said the IC should be disconnected.
I don't believe it'll cause anything. DC voltage will go to SDA driver/s of other speaker with IC connected but this is important to check SDA drivers' phase.
If you don't test SDA drivers, even if you have all other drivers in phase, speaker as a whole won't be in phase if SDA driver is not in phase.
IC disconnect may help other kinds of troubleshooting.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
Mystery, I believe you missed my point but that's OK. Thanks for giving me your opinion. I appreciate it.
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat