Ready to spike my 2B's...a question though
muncybob
Posts: 3,042
I've had the spikes for about a month and finally got around to installing them today. Drilled all the holes to the depth of the "nut inserts". I notice that if the thread is installed to the point that it bottoms out in the hole there will be about a 1/2" gap between the top of the spike itself and the cabinet. Should I drill the holes an additional 1/2" or so such that the thread goes into the cabinet further and the spikes will then be closer to the bottom of the speaker? There is enough room to do this without actually going through the base. It also appear the inserts will take a few fairly firm whacks to push them into the cabinet. I'm a little concerned about hitting them that hard. Yes, I'm using the size drill bit that the web site(Meniscus) says to use.
Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub.
Post edited by muncybob on
Comments
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You need to drive the inserts further into the cabinet. A 1/2 gap is too much.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
You need to drive the inserts further into the cabinet. A 1/2 gap is too much.
+1000...the inserts should be all the way into the cab. You can always back out a spike or two a bit to level if needed. -
Isn't that what he's saying? The thread insert, fully installed, provides a half-inch gap to the spike.
I'd cut the threads of the spike shorter, but that's me. I would NOT continue drilling into the cabinet to make a "pocket" for the excess threads on the spike. -
Isn't that what he's saying? The thread insert, fully installed, provides a half-inch gap to the spike.
I'd cut the threads of the spike shorter, but that's me. I would NOT continue drilling into the cabinet to make a "pocket" for the excess threads on the spike.
Are you saying that the threads on the spikes themselves are longer than the inserts? -
Isn't that what he's saying? The thread insert, fully installed, provides a half-inch gap to the spike.
Yeah, I think you are right. Doh!
I was focused on this statement....It also appear the inserts will take a few fairly firm whacks to push them into the cabinet. I'm a little concerned about hitting them that hard.
Whack away.Should I drill the holes an additional 1/2" or so such that the thread goes into the cabinet further and the spikes will then be closer to the bottom of the speaker?
muncybob, that's exactly what I have done.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Yes, DEFINITELY drill a little deeper and screw in the threads all the way up until the top of the spikes are in contact with the inserts. That will add a great deal of stability. If necessary, to level the speakers, you can then back out some of the spike threads a little bit.
This was a very worthwhile mod for my SDA-2BTLs.
Good luck. -
I would NOT continue drilling into the cabinet to make a "pocket" for the excess threads on the spike.
Any particular reason not to? Appears there is still close to another 1/2" of cabinet to spare. Cutting the inserts is preferable I guess as long as I can still get them to thread into the nuts. It's got me wondering why they went with such long inserts to begin with.Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub. -
Thread a nut onto the stud, cut the stud, thread the nut back off to straighten the threads at the cut.
Not as perfect as using a die, but it should work. Maybe buff the threads at the cut on a wire wheel afterward. Not difficult. -
Any particular reason not to? Appears there is still close to another 1/2" of cabinet to spare. Cutting the inserts is preferable I guess as long as I can still get them to thread into the nuts. It's got me wondering why they went with such long inserts to begin with.
This thread is confusing to say the least.
Are the inserts fully seated or not? If not, seat them all the way.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
This thread is confusing to say the least.
Are the inserts fully seated or not? If not, seat them all the way.
This is where "a picture is worth a thousand words" quote comes in mind.
I am also interested on spiking 2B's but no idea what this issue is about.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
Thread a nut onto the stud, cut the stud, thread the nut back off to straighten the threads at the cut.
Not as perfect as using a die, but it should work. Maybe buff the threads at the cut on a wire wheel afterward. Not difficult.
Sounds like a plan. If I screw it up I can always get other studs and try again.Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub. -
This thread is confusing to say the least.
Are the inserts fully seated or not? If not, seat them all the way.
I guess it was created when I called the threads(studs) "inserts"....sorry 'bout that.Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub.
