Silosub material-anyone ever use PVC?

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wlrandall
wlrandall Posts: 440
edited December 2003 in Speakers
Yes, I know it sounds whacked, but I'm considering a DIY sub and using schedule 80 PVC pipe for the tube.

Any input is greatly appreciated.

Wally
Post edited by wlrandall on
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  • tryrrthg
    tryrrthg Posts: 1,896
    edited December 2003
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    From what I've read it will work fine, you just have to keep the air speed in the vent lower than you would with a flared port. A straight port will start chuffing before a flared port...
    Sony KDL-40V2500 HDTV, Rotel RSX-1067 Receiver, Sony BDP-S550 Blu-ray, Slim Devices Squeezebox, Polk RTi6, CSi3 & R15, DIY sub with Atlas 15
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  • tryrrthg
    tryrrthg Posts: 1,896
    edited December 2003
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    Forgot to mention that with a flared port you generally want to keep air speed under 26m/sec with a straight port it is 17m/sec. Or that is what I've read...
    Sony KDL-40V2500 HDTV, Rotel RSX-1067 Receiver, Sony BDP-S550 Blu-ray, Slim Devices Squeezebox, Polk RTi6, CSi3 & R15, DIY sub with Atlas 15
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  • burdette
    burdette Posts: 1,194
    edited December 2003
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    I used PVC pipe for the tube. Don't know exactly what "schedule 80" means.... but I bought the cheaper (of two) 4" pipe from Lowe's and used this:

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&User_ID=15766660&St=1486&St2=-85100049&St3=78742052&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=5750&DID=7

    This fits perfectly to (in) the female end of the pipe. The 'female' fitting is long enough that you can trim off a couple of inches, attach the flared end to that end, and use what you cut off as a ring on the other end of the tube to attach the other flared end (if you use two). Put the "ring" around the joint of that end and the tube and glue it.

    I'd bet you can find 6" flared ends, but PE didn't have them and that is where I ordered my stuff.

    Also, I think you could easily make a flared end out of wood - just build it into the surface where the tube attaches.
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  • wlrandall
    wlrandall Posts: 440
    edited December 2003
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    Thanks, y'all. I think I may have confused you, though. I'm good at that!

    1) The idea is to use PVC instead of wood or Sonotube for the body of the sub. Imagine a piece of plastic pipe 16" in diameter and about 3.5-4 feet tall.

    2) Schedule refers to the diameter/pressure rating of the pipe. Schedule 40 is the stuff you see in Home Depot; 80 has a much thicker wall.

    Wally
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  • burdette
    burdette Posts: 1,194
    edited December 2003
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    Ya know, I thought that was maybe what you meant.. but we all went off on the tangent of the port tube.

    The plastic pipe - I'm guessing - isn't going to be as dead inside as the paper. So you might need to pay special attention to deadening it.. perhaps spray it with some of the canned stuff you use to deaden car doors, etc, in addition to the usual internal covering of insulation. Maybe add some internal bracing (a ring or two around the internal diameter) to break up the lengths of 'exposed' wall.

    If you have 16" and 18" available, I've read about putting the 16 inside the 18 with some wood spacers between them, then filling all the space with expanding foam insulation... supposed to make a VERY dead tube.

    Just an FYI... I used something very similar to this for the inside of my sonosub... worked very well and very easy to work WITH:

    http://shop.store.yahoo.com/laurenslinens/muleggcratst1.html
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