Sub Woofer plugged into surge protector/power bar?

Cuchulain
Cuchulain Posts: 66
edited January 2013 in Subwoofer Hookup & Bass Management
My powered sub woofer has died. A friend says I should have had it plugged into a surge protector. Are there fuses in these? Wall socket is good; power indicator is not coming on. Is this likely a simple fix? Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
AVR: Integra DTR-50.4
TV: LG 50PS70
DVD/CD/BR: OPPO BDP 93
MAINS: Polk RTiA7
CENTER: Polk CSiA6
Heights: Polk VS 625RT (in wall)
SURROUNDS: Polk TC60i (in ceiling)
REARS: Polk R1
SUB: Polk PSW 125
Post edited by Cuchulain on
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  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,648
    edited January 2013
    I can't even find a back panel view of the QS10.

    Most likely, if there isn't one in a holder near the power plug, there isn't.
    But sometimes, the fuse is locating inside the amp enclosure. If it is under warranty, sent it to Quest. If not, then not like you can do any more harm by pulling the amp out and seeing if there is one.
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
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  • Cuchulain
    Cuchulain Posts: 66
    edited January 2013
    It's 10 or 12 years old now I guess. I'm thinking now if it's 50 bucks or more to fix I could throw that into upgrading. I'll open it up and have a look.
    AVR: Integra DTR-50.4
    TV: LG 50PS70
    DVD/CD/BR: OPPO BDP 93
    MAINS: Polk RTiA7
    CENTER: Polk CSiA6
    Heights: Polk VS 625RT (in wall)
    SURROUNDS: Polk TC60i (in ceiling)
    REARS: Polk R1
    SUB: Polk PSW 125
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  • Cuchulain
    Cuchulain Posts: 66
    edited January 2013
    Yup. Fuse attached to the circuit board. And blown. Came out easily with a slot driver. I guess I'll get that surge protector while I'm at it. Thanks!
    AVR: Integra DTR-50.4
    TV: LG 50PS70
    DVD/CD/BR: OPPO BDP 93
    MAINS: Polk RTiA7
    CENTER: Polk CSiA6
    Heights: Polk VS 625RT (in wall)
    SURROUNDS: Polk TC60i (in ceiling)
    REARS: Polk R1
    SUB: Polk PSW 125
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  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,648
    edited January 2013
    A surge protector is never a bad idea but don't skimp. Those cheap ones at Walmart do little to nothing to protect your gear.

    Personally, I would pick up the 8 port Rocketfish Surge Center. It is a combination surge portector and noise filter.
    That or something equivilant from Tripp Lite. Nice simple and inexpensive "entry level" power protection.
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
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  • Cuchulain
    Cuchulain Posts: 66
    edited January 2013
    I have a Monster Power HT protector (not sure of the model) that has a "safelite" for my set up but the sub is plugged into an adjacent wall and didn't really think of protecting it.
    AVR: Integra DTR-50.4
    TV: LG 50PS70
    DVD/CD/BR: OPPO BDP 93
    MAINS: Polk RTiA7
    CENTER: Polk CSiA6
    Heights: Polk VS 625RT (in wall)
    SURROUNDS: Polk TC60i (in ceiling)
    REARS: Polk R1
    SUB: Polk PSW 125
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  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,648
    edited January 2013
    Depending on what actually caused the fuse to pop, it may or may not have been preventable with a surge protector.
    Transient spikes can sometimes be "gentle" enough to get past the surge protection but enough to pop a fuse.
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
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  • Cuchulain
    Cuchulain Posts: 66
    edited January 2013
    Just put in a new fuse and it's not coming on. Some other damage has been caused.
    AVR: Integra DTR-50.4
    TV: LG 50PS70
    DVD/CD/BR: OPPO BDP 93
    MAINS: Polk RTiA7
    CENTER: Polk CSiA6
    Heights: Polk VS 625RT (in wall)
    SURROUNDS: Polk TC60i (in ceiling)
    REARS: Polk R1
    SUB: Polk PSW 125
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  • michael1947
    michael1947 Posts: 775
    edited January 2013
    Yup, I've got about 3 old subs laying around all dead to the world waiting for me to fix them up...and it's probably not worth fixing old subs anyway. I just picked up a Polk 505, not the best rated but has a warranty and Amazon delivered it for $180.oo
    Main Family Room: Sony 46 LCD, Sony Blue Ray, Sony DVD/VCR combo,Onkyo TXNR 708, Parasound 5250,
    Polk SDS-SRS with mods, CSI 5 center + Klipsch SC2, Polk RT2000P rears, Klipsch KG 1.5's sides, Polk Micro Pro 1000, Polk Micro Pro 2000, Polk SW505, Belkin PF60, Signal Cable Classics,Monster IC's, 2 15 amp circuits & 1 20 amp circuit.

    Living Room: Belkin PF60, Parasound HCA2200, MIT ProlineEXP balanced IC's,Emotiva XDA-1 DAC/Pre,Emotiva ERC2 transport,MIT AVT2, Polk LSI 9's.
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  • 20hz
    20hz Posts: 636
    edited January 2013
    I figured that .
    If the driver is good you could get a ebay amp to drive it just get one with as much or more power than the dead one
    Cuchulain wrote: »
    Just put in a new fuse and it's not coming on. Some other damage has been caused.
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  • Speedskater
    Speedskater Posts: 495
    edited January 2013
    Cuchulain wrote: »
    My powered sub woofer has died. A friend says I should have had it plugged into a surge protector. Are there fuses in these? Wall socket is good; power indicator is not coming on. Is this likely a simple fix? Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
    I think that your friend was wrong!
    Sub-woofers are very robust units. If a surge took-out a sub, it would also toast lots of other equipment.
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  • Cuchulain
    Cuchulain Posts: 66
    edited January 2013
    Looks like i'm in the market for a new one.
    AVR: Integra DTR-50.4
    TV: LG 50PS70
    DVD/CD/BR: OPPO BDP 93
    MAINS: Polk RTiA7
    CENTER: Polk CSiA6
    Heights: Polk VS 625RT (in wall)
    SURROUNDS: Polk TC60i (in ceiling)
    REARS: Polk R1
    SUB: Polk PSW 125
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  • classic carl
    classic carl Posts: 648
    edited January 2013
    Parts Express has sub amps for sale on their site. You might be further ahead to buy a brand new sub though.
    Main System:
    Proton AA-1150 ~ Yamaha C-4 ~ Furman Elite-15 DMi ~ Sennheiser HD600 ~ Monitor Audio Silver RS8 & FB210 ~ Martin Logan Dynamo ~ Teac R-919X ~ Marantz CD5003 ~ Squeezebox Classic ~ Music Hall dac25.2 ~ Dual 1229/Acutex M312 III STR ~ Music Hall mmf-5.1/Goldring 1012GX ~ Music Hall Cruise Control 2.0

    Home Theater:
    Vizio V585-H11 ~ Yamaha RX-V800 ~ Furman Elite-15 DMi ~ Marantz DV6001 ~ EPI M90 ~ Polk Audio RT35i ~ CS400i ~ (2) Polk Audio PSW450

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  • Anthony Hinton
    Anthony Hinton Posts: 107
    edited January 2013
    Speedskater wrote: »
    I think that your friend was wrong!
    Sub-woofers are very robust units. If a surge took-out a sub, it would also toast lots of other equipment.

    His friend only suggested that it should be plugged into a surge protector, what is wrong about that?
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  • Speedskater
    Speedskater Posts: 495
    edited January 2013
    I read it as: his friend said it failed because it was not plugged into a surge protector.

    A whole house surge protector is the best way to go.

    On page 30 of this white paper, Jim Brown writes about point of use surge protectors:

    Power and Grounding for Audio and Video Systems
    A White Paper for the Real World – International Version
    Jim Brown
    Audio Systems Group, Inc.

    Shunt mode devices can cause damage to equipment if, during a surge event (lightning,
    power transient) they conduct the surge to the ground conductor at some point other
    than the building common point. When that happens, the ground conductor takes the
    full weight of the surge, and thanks to resistance and inductance in the ground
    conductor(s), the voltage rises to a very high value. If that ground conductor is connected to
    other equipment (for example, by the shield of an audio or video cable), or even capacity-
    coupled by means of an Ethernet cable connecting two pieces of equipment, it is
    very likely that one or both pieces of equipment will fail destructively, because the
    other equipment is bonded to ground at a different point in the building. In other
    words, it is the difference in the voltage between the two pieces of interconnected
    equipment that causes the failure. To avoid this failure mode, shunt mode suppressors
    must be bonded to a ground only to the building common point.

    http://www.audiosystemsgroup.com/SurgeXPowerGround.pdf
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  • timalan
    timalan Posts: 106
    edited January 2013
    Dang -- I had the same thing happen last week. My Martin Logan Dynamo sub went Pop. Took out the fuse; it was fried. Replaced it (twice) and it fried again each time I turned it back on. Talked to Martin Logan and their guess was the power supply had gone bad, and at $170 to replace, not worth it for me, which is a shame, because it is an awesome sub.

    Anyone have any other (Free/cheap) ideas I can try? would love to find a way to rejuvenate this sub.
    5.1 theater - Pioneer SC-07, Mirage OMD-CC center, 4 x Mirage Omnisats, Boston Acoustics VPS-210 sub
    2.1 living room - NAD 7400 integrated, 2 x Platinum Audio Duos, MIT Terminator4 cables
    2.1 bedroom- Arcam Solo, 2 x Mirage OMD-5's
    FOR SALE - Genesis Servo-10 sub, Genesis Servo-12 amp; Martin Logan Dynamo sub; Mirage MM-6 sub; Harman Kardon DPR-1001 7.1 receiver
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