Alternator question?

CPHILHOWER

Pretty soon, I will be in the market for a new Alt. Just wanted opinions on what to use.
HU: Alpine CDA7995 with 6 disc changer in console.
Stereo amp: RF Power 550x running 4 ohm 4 channel.
Sub amp: RF BD500 running 2 ohm mono.
Fuse total 100 amp.

My 01 Ford Escape has (According to Wrangler NW) 105 amp unit. 6G case.
Also have some extras. CB radio and 30 watt amp. Daytime running lights. Along with all the factory options for 01.

Question: What size Alt should I use?
Mr. Alternator: 200 amp $275 + shipping
Wrangler NW: 150 amp $300 + shipping
200 amp $845 + shipping

Any other brands I should consider?
Thanks
Chris

MTXMAN

get one from Ohio Generator. they're one of the best brands, a 200amp will cost you around 5-7 hundred but they're better quality and will put out more amps at idle speed than the $275 one

CPHILHOWER

Do you a Link to their site?
Thanks
Chris

PoweredByDodge

ohiogenerator does not have a website - but www.splmax.com is one of their main dealers -- put in an inquiry for price -- but i can tell u its roughly 400 - 600 for a 200 amper of theirs.

mr. alternator makes a decentproduct too -- i would not worry about using one of his -- if he can get u 200 amps for 275 bucks - do it.

MTXMAN

The ohio generator alt will more than likely have higher idle output and that's where your electrical system can take a huge hit. when you're driving downtown stopping at every light and never taking your revs over 2500. however if you only ever drive the highway that's groovy, get which ever you want. just check with the manufacturers and find out what the output is at various rpm's to see which one is truly better

CPHILHOWER

My Tach used to peg 2500 rpm at 80mph. Before I put the larger tires on. Now I travel about 65-70mph. The Tach is around 2000 rpm. Idle is 800. The Main question is, How many Amps do I need? I am leaning the 150 since it puts out about 100 at idle. 200? About 80. Roughly guessing.
Chris

CPHILHOWER

PBD, I did E-mail SPLMAX. Maybe this time I will hear from them.
Chris

Thom

I've been very happy with my Ohio Generator. I'd ask them their recommendation as far as output (they may only have one option anyway).

PoweredByDodge

they may take up to oh prolly 2 weeks to ge tback to u -- thats what it took for me.

i dont have the phone number anymore but somehow i weaseled the actual ohio generator phone number outa somebody -- they are very very very knowledgeable over there....

they aim their alts for idle output of about 70% peak output.

for example... at 750 rpms, the alt for my truck was supposed to do like 150 amps... at 1,300 rpms it would do about 225 amps. and it would hold steady there up through the rpm band.

too bad i didn't have the 550+ bucks for it.... wudda been a nice treat.

the shittier ones are gonna do that 225 at like 1,800 - 2,000 rpms and do jack squat zero at idle.... some wont even turn on until 1,000 rpms... you're running off batteries at stop lights.

you've gotta talk to the tech guys at the manufacturer and get the specs from them and then compare.

CPHILHOWER

I did it!! I just ordered a Mr Alternator 200 amp. Tom over there told me it would put about 90 amps at idle. Said it would work fine for my low rpms at highway. 70 mph @ 2100 rpm. Just need to get 2 gauge wire and terminals. Its a short run. Maybe 10'.
Chris

CPHILHOWER

Here is a GOOD question. When I install the new Alt. I know I need to run 2 gauge Power and Ground with a fuse.

Do I attach the Factory lead? Or just tape it off?

My previous car, I re-attached the Factory wire to the new Alt. Along with a new Power and Ground. Also used a fuse next to the battery.

Thanks.
Chris

delvryboy

Originally posted by CPHILHOWER
Here is a GOOD question. When I install the new Alt. I know I need to run 2 gauge Power and Ground with a fuse.

Do I attach the Factory lead? Or just tape it off?

My previous car, I re-attached the Factory wire to the new Alt. Along with a new Power and Ground. Also used a fuse next to the battery.

Thanks.
Chris

it's a good idea to reattach the original power wire and use the 2awg as an add-on....reason being that sometimes the manufacturer splits an accessory or two off this wire somewhere down the line....i ran into this problem with my cavalier

PoweredByDodge

chris -- keep it simple...

look at the wire going from the alt - factory one - and see where it goes.. trace it with your hand and make sure nothing is tapped into it.

as long as it's "plain jane" and nothin tapped in... then here's what you do...


run 2 gauge from your alt to your batt with your necessary sized fuse.

then remove the factory ground going to the engine block and replace with a 2 gauge ground to the same spot (or hell you can even ground it right to the alternator mounting bracket).

there should be a short thin (maybe 10 gauge) wire grounding the battery to the body (like a fender or something)... replace that with a 4 or 2 gauge lead.

then... finish it off by running a 4 gauge wire from your BATTERY terminal to the place where the original wire from the factory alternator went to the computer or fuse box or whatever the hell it goes to. (put like an 80 amp fuse on that if you want or see if there is a fuse on the device... there will probably be like a 100 amp fuse on teh device right next to where you snap in the wire).

then just run a 2 gauge lead from your battery to your system... and you're done.

that's the cleanest way of doing it, and i believe also the most electrically efficient and stable.

CPHILHOWER

PBD, I am going to run 3 ground leads.
1st: Leave Factory ground alone.
2nd: Run additional 2 gauge from Alt back to battery.
3rd: Leave the 2 gauge wire I ran to the body. 2 gauge feeds amps, So I used an additional 2 gauge ground to the body.

The Positive leads?
1st: 2 gauge from Alt to battery with a 200 amp fuse.
2nd: I will reattach the Factory lead on Alt.

I think this will be the easiest route to follow.
Chris

CPHILHOWER

I finally got it!! Just in time too. I think mine is almost Dead. This morning, I arrived early to work. Listened to the radio for abou 20 minutes. Voltmeter flashed 10.7. Went to start. barely cranked. At lunch, I went to Jumpstart my truck. Started right up. Without a jump. The Trip Odometer was reset, Dash lights dim. Everything else was fine. Drove 15 miles down Highway to get home. radio off, Headlights on, Blower fan on Low. Voltmeter read 13.5v. At traffic lights, 13.1v.
Any theories?
Thanks.
Chris

Jstas

That sems more like a battery problem than an alternator problem. Unless the voltage regulator is going bad.

CPHILHOWER

I think its the Volt. Reg. The Turn signal flasher vaused the Dash lights to flicker. Either that or I drained the Battery too much. My system is running 1000 watts RMS total.
Chris

PoweredByDodge

... shoulda bought an 88 dodge standard cab, then u'd have none of these problems.... i dont even think this piece of **** has dash lights... i'll be lucky if the goddamn speedometer still works at all.

i think it has like windows that open -- not power ones or anything, but just like window things... and doors... maybe i'll weld them shut and "Bo Duke" it like the guy who's superman's dad on "Smallville" did for so many years.


anyway -- yes it sounds like a battery problem to me too... get a friend's batt or whatever in there for a day and see if u get stable voltage.

CPHILHOWER

PBD, I have not had a problem since yesterday morning. using the same battery. Since I have this problem from time to time. I have a theory. The stock Alt can't keep up with the load. I drain the reserve from the battery.
Chris

sntnsupermen131

hows the job situation working out for you Chris?
havent seen you online in a while
-Cody

CPHILHOWER

I dont know if I mentioned it here or not. I am still working at Pep Boys. After being there 4 months, I received a promotion. Now I am a 2nd Assistant Store Manager. Had this job for about 1 month. Not bad for a person who just started in july. Have alot of paperwork to deal with. New hours. Closing the store 4 nights a week. Cashier Reconciliation, DCR every night. Setting the alarm. Dealing with Angry Customers. All this for a $1hr raise + Bonus at end of month.
Chris

sntnsupermen131

aint bad!
good luck to ya
i need a bonus, or a raise...lol
-Cody

PoweredByDodge

hey chris -- its "feast or famine" in the job market aint it? -- u can't find **** for a while and u're willing to do anything, then u get a good job and get a promotion and u start bein like "dammit gotta do this and this and this" -- lol -- dont sweat it man, u got a good job with a good company, and management looks pimp on a resume, if/when u ever wanna jump ship you'll have that feather in your cap and it'll help a lot -- has for my one friend who was a manager at Wegman's back in the day, couldn't find **** for a job, then all of a sudden Wilson Farms hires him as a shift manager just cuz like 10 friggin years ago he had it on his resume.

CPHILHOWER

I am not complaining.
Chris