Refinishing and veneering help/opinions wanted
TNHNDYMAN
Posts: 2,145
Picked up this wash basin right before Christmas and am wanting to get started on refinishing it. I've done a few other pieces of furniture which were all in very rough shape and went thru the process of taking back down to bare wood and then staining and then usually I use poly as a finish on top.
I love the curved drawers and they are solid wood. The doors are veneered and need obvious help. This will be my first attempt at redoing veneer so go easy on me. The plan is to completely remove the old veneer from the bottom doors and apply new veneer that I picked up at Woodcrafters. The salesman talked about sequence matching and I have no idea what he was refering to. The original veneer appears to be red oak? I'd like the stain to be a little darker but don't want to stray too far from original.
The construction of the cabinet frame itself is not the quality I was hoping for when I first saw the pics on CL, but I love the look and the curves so it's a nice piece for me to learn on. Not trying to get into the high end antique roadshow and keep it original for best value approach. I want to use this piece in my home and looks and durability is more important than preservation per say.
Appreciate any guidance, insight, or opinions from the more seasoned woodworkers out on this forum- Musky, F1, Geoff, ect...
Ok having trouble uploading pics at the moment so I"m going to go ahead and post text and add pics later.
I love the curved drawers and they are solid wood. The doors are veneered and need obvious help. This will be my first attempt at redoing veneer so go easy on me. The plan is to completely remove the old veneer from the bottom doors and apply new veneer that I picked up at Woodcrafters. The salesman talked about sequence matching and I have no idea what he was refering to. The original veneer appears to be red oak? I'd like the stain to be a little darker but don't want to stray too far from original.
The construction of the cabinet frame itself is not the quality I was hoping for when I first saw the pics on CL, but I love the look and the curves so it's a nice piece for me to learn on. Not trying to get into the high end antique roadshow and keep it original for best value approach. I want to use this piece in my home and looks and durability is more important than preservation per say.
Appreciate any guidance, insight, or opinions from the more seasoned woodworkers out on this forum- Musky, F1, Geoff, ect...
Ok having trouble uploading pics at the moment so I"m going to go ahead and post text and add pics later.
2-ch System: Parasound P/LD 2000 pre, Parasound HCA-1000 amp, Parasound T/DQ Tuner, Phase Technology PC-100 Tower speakers, Technics SL-1600 Turntable, Denon 2910 SACD/CD player, Peachtree DAC iT and X1asynchorus USB converter, HSU VTF-3 subwoofer.
Post edited by TNHNDYMAN on
Comments
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What type of veneer do you buy? Is it raw veneer, paperbacked, PSA, etc.?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
F1- This is the 1st time I've bought any veneer. It's Sauers & Company Processed Veneers- Flaky Quarter Sawn Oak Veneer. 3 Sq Ft Pack, 4.5-6.5" wide by 12" length. Sequence Matched.
Just opened the pkg and it appears to be raw veneer. Definately no paper backing. Guess you just use contact cement or wood glue and put a heavy weight on it flat till it tacks up?2-ch System: Parasound P/LD 2000 pre, Parasound HCA-1000 amp, Parasound T/DQ Tuner, Phase Technology PC-100 Tower speakers, Technics SL-1600 Turntable, Denon 2910 SACD/CD player, Peachtree DAC iT and X1asynchorus USB converter, HSU VTF-3 subwoofer. -
Trying pics again....
2-ch System: Parasound P/LD 2000 pre, Parasound HCA-1000 amp, Parasound T/DQ Tuner, Phase Technology PC-100 Tower speakers, Technics SL-1600 Turntable, Denon 2910 SACD/CD player, Peachtree DAC iT and X1asynchorus USB converter, HSU VTF-3 subwoofer. -
I'd suggest you take that back, working with raw veneer isn't for the first time user. If they don't have any paperbacked there are plenty of places online that do.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
The pieces of veneer I have are only 5.5" wide and the door is 13.5" W x 9" T. It looks like I'd have to use 3 pieces side by side to cover the door with the grain running verticle as it is originally. Would this be problematic and/or would it be ok to run it horizontal with only 2 strips? Scratch that it's only 12" long veneer so it won't cover it.
Should I just go look for a differant type or specifically differant width veneer that would be easier to use in this application?2-ch System: Parasound P/LD 2000 pre, Parasound HCA-1000 amp, Parasound T/DQ Tuner, Phase Technology PC-100 Tower speakers, Technics SL-1600 Turntable, Denon 2910 SACD/CD player, Peachtree DAC iT and X1asynchorus USB converter, HSU VTF-3 subwoofer. -
Just saw your post Jesse. Could you provide a link to what you might recommend I look for. What I bought is very thin...what are the advantages of the paper backed? Also what do you think of the basin itself? I think it's worth saving and felt like for $50 it would be a good piece to learn to use veneer.2-ch System: Parasound P/LD 2000 pre, Parasound HCA-1000 amp, Parasound T/DQ Tuner, Phase Technology PC-100 Tower speakers, Technics SL-1600 Turntable, Denon 2910 SACD/CD player, Peachtree DAC iT and X1asynchorus USB converter, HSU VTF-3 subwoofer.
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I am wanting to learn more about veneering in order to apply that skill toward future projects which include a set of Monitor 10's. However for this project, if i screw it up, would it be possible/easier to just have some quarter sawn oak cut to the doors dimensions and then proceed from there since I plan on restaining the whole piece anyways?2-ch System: Parasound P/LD 2000 pre, Parasound HCA-1000 amp, Parasound T/DQ Tuner, Phase Technology PC-100 Tower speakers, Technics SL-1600 Turntable, Denon 2910 SACD/CD player, Peachtree DAC iT and X1asynchorus USB converter, HSU VTF-3 subwoofer.
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This is but one of many places that sell paperbacked veneer, http://www.veneersupplies.com/categories/Veneer__Products/Paper__Backed__Veneer/Paper__Backed__Veneer%3A__2%27__x__8%27/?page=2&sort=featuredThe original veneer appears to be red oak?
Impossible to tell from your pics. The differences are subtle, so either red or white will work.what are the advantages of the paper backed?
It is considerably easier to work with. If you want to learn how to work with raw veneer, there are books and info online. You need a lot of tools and materials that you don't need with paperbacked. It's almost an art form.
Doesn't matter what I think, but I agree it will be a good piece to learn on.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I do appreciate the link and pointers. I am trying to learn from books, online forums, and pics of other people's projects. Some of the work I've seen just flat out awe's me. I have no background at all in woodworking and just have found that I thouroughly enjoying taking something beat up and improving it. Creating from the ground up takes a whole other level of expertise. I do aspire to that kind of skill one day but so far am satisfied in the results of what I've tried at this point.
I recently did an end table that hold records and though I made plenty of mistakes, it still turned out nice considering where it was before. After that I decided to try my hand at redoing my kitchen cabinets which I made the mistake of painting shortly after we bought the house. They were in bad shape and the paint was a quick fix. Lesson learned. Never paint anything you may want to stain later... Still have a few panels that need a touch up here and there, but for the most part I was very happy with how they turned out.
2-ch System: Parasound P/LD 2000 pre, Parasound HCA-1000 amp, Parasound T/DQ Tuner, Phase Technology PC-100 Tower speakers, Technics SL-1600 Turntable, Denon 2910 SACD/CD player, Peachtree DAC iT and X1asynchorus USB converter, HSU VTF-3 subwoofer. -
The site that Jesse linked to has a sister site that has information about veneering, from the basics on up. Check it out:
http://www.joewoodworker.com/
I've bought a how to book from veneersupplies.com and spent hours browsing the veneers, but haven't actually tried any veneering quite yet. Have fun!Wristwatch--->Crisco -
Nice piece, good luck. Book matched panels may look better than the quartersawn style thats there, IMO. One thing to remember is, the thinner the veneer......the easier it is to "sand through", that is a bad thing. If you buy some various clamps (ahem....deep throat) and get a bunch of caul material, you can get a superior result than you'd ever get with paper thin/iron on stuff. Check out youtube for instruction vids. The hinges look like they were a repair when the butt hinges came loose. You might want to return to butt type since you're renewing the door veneer, or not.
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Something like this B'matched burl wouldd look great and compliment the grain on the drawers better, IMO.
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You should use paperbacked veneer.
The raw veneer requires the use of a special glue and an even pressure until the glue is cured. you cannot use contact cement with raw veneer.
With paper backed you can use contact cement. Make sure cement is completely dry on your drawers and the veneer, then apply the paper backed veneer with a wooden squeegie using heavy pressure in 3 to 4 in area at a time. always work with the grain and not against it.
Hope this helps. Good Luck!
