Question for spikes for SDA's
naturallight
Posts: 689
I have an old set of SDA 1c's studio models that had "maybe"..a 1 " mdf foot base around the bottom, which had, i think some plastic feet on them. Now they have been long broken off and now sit flat on the floor. Which is now a very "no pile" rug probably glued onto the cement floor.
So now there very easy to move around..to a 1/4 inch...LOL But they really should be spiked...the problem is.....what spike?
Now i have to drill holes in the bottom of the SDA's...not fond of that. But the spikes seem to run all over the place, as far as size and width of the spike. They seem to run from 5/8" to over 2" as far as height? I'm not sure about the width of these per say.
What if anything is the right size spike for these speakers...if there is such a thing???
So now there very easy to move around..to a 1/4 inch...LOL But they really should be spiked...the problem is.....what spike?
Now i have to drill holes in the bottom of the SDA's...not fond of that. But the spikes seem to run all over the place, as far as size and width of the spike. They seem to run from 5/8" to over 2" as far as height? I'm not sure about the width of these per say.
What if anything is the right size spike for these speakers...if there is such a thing???
Post edited by naturallight on
Comments
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naturallight wrote: »I have an old set of SDA 1c's studio models that had "maybe"..a 1 " mdf foot base around the bottom, which had, i think some plastic feet on them. Now they have been long broken off and now sit flat on the floor. Which is now a very "no pile" rug probably glued onto the cement floor.
So now there very easy to move around..to a 1/4 inch...LOL But they really should be spiked...the problem is.....what spike?
Now i have to drill holes in the bottom of the SDA's...not fond of that. But the spikes seem to run all over the place, as far as size and width of the spike. They seem to run from 5/8" to over 2" as far as height? I'm not sure about the width of these per say.
What if anything is the right size spike for these speakers...if there is such a thing???
Given you have to drill into your SDA's whatever spike you want to use is fine. With that said the normal spike you see is solid brass, or one of the ones from parts express.
A long time back a bunch of us bought spikes from Meniscus Audio, specifically their Extra Point's sets and used those. However those are now sold out and I dont know what folks are using now.
Link here: http://meniscusaudio.com/extra-points-p-1292.html
I have seen folks use the parts express ones as well so they should do the job, but I have no experience with them"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
Are you saying you have removed the bases ? If not you would take a 2" block in each corner of the base and attatch the spoike to block.
F1nut has described this process to many, I may be off base on how it is done but maybe he will see this thread and weigh in.
If you have removed the base I am not sure what you do.Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
When i did mine i used these
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/tiptoes/feet/feet-yung-ybsc-black-chrome-tiptoe-1.5/
I first turned the speaker upside down and drew around the spike in pencil then drilled in the center with 1/4 bit.
The big piece is threaded all the way through 1/4x20tpi. I threw away the little threaded rod and insert and used 1/4x20tpi hex bolts and a fender washer to go completely through the base. Then i put hot melt glue over everything inside the cabinet.
everything on this page in 1/4x20tpi will fit the spike if you decide you need a taller spike which help in the adjustment to level.
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/index.php?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=name&search_str=feet
The bottom of the spike is used to level. I did not plan on taking these off so i also used red thread locker but i have never had them come loose before, but make sure you don't get any on the lower part or you'll have some trouble when it dries.
hope this helps. -
When I spiked my SDA-2B Studios, I didn't like, nor trust, the mdf "foot base" (pedestal) that was on the bottom of the speaker cabinet. I also didn't want to put spikes directly into the mdf cabinet because: a) I didn't think it was sturdy enough to hold the spike anchors very well in the long term, especially if the speakers were to be moved more than a few times over the next 30-40 years, b) I didn't like the looks of them mounted directly into the cabinet base and c) By replacing the mdf pedestal with something taller, along with the added height from the spikes themselves, I could get the tweeters up a little closer to my seated ear height.
I removed the mdf pedestal and sealed the four anchoring screw holes in the bottom of the speaker cabinet. Then I replaced the mdf pedestal with a homemade one of solid oak, painted black to match the cabinets. The original pedestal was about 1" tall, the new oak one is 1-1/2" tall and is anchored very securely to the cabinet base by eight (two per side) screws.
I used solid copper spikes that add just over 1-1/2" (including their essential height leveling nut/washer), bringing the cabinets to just over 3" off the ground, or an increase of a little more than 2" from their original height. The completed project looks very nice and is very stable. I currently have them on hardwood floors with protective floor discs below each spike.
To my ears, they made a very noticeable sonic improvement to the 2Bs, especially on the bass response. -
EndersShadow wrote: »A long time back a bunch of us bought spikes from Meniscus Audio, specifically their Extra Point's sets and used those. However those are now sold out and I dont know what folks are using now.
Link here: http://meniscusaudio.com/extra-points-p-1292.html
Several people I'd contacted before doing my 2B's spikes had gone with the sold out ones ES listed above and they were not pleased with the fact that those spikes were too broad and the tip too rounded to get a good carpet piercing. I know that the OP currently has his speakers on a "no-pile" rug, but it may be of concern for future speaker placement (ie. thicker pile above a rubber pad) and he might want to shop for spikes with sharper tips. -
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Been thinking of spiking my 2bs ... Anyone really experience a notable difference?Mains: Polk Audio SDA-2Bs
Center and Surrounds: Bic Acoustech
AVR: Pioneer 1015tx
Amp: Anthem Amp 1
Turntable: Project Debut III
Inputs: Xbox 360, Samsung BDP-1000, Apple TV -
Spiffyfast wrote: »Been thinking of spiking my 2bs ... Anyone really experience a notable difference?
Do a search for spikes here. I don't think anyone that has added spikes didn't notice an immediate improvement.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
"Spikes" a speakers way of saying "can you hear me now!!"
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I removed the bases on my 2Bs and drilled right into the speaker cab. Installed the inserts and screwed in the 1 5/8" Dayton brass spikes. Solid as a rock on berber carpet, and a nice improvement in both bass response and imaging (especially at lower volumes).
