Tannoy D100 Mods?
thetawave2
Posts: 268
For a while now, I've been planning on re-capping my Tannoy D100 bookshelf speakers. Fortunately, the crossover design is quite simple and should be relatively inexpensive and easy for a first-time modder like myself. I am very grateful for all the guidance I got on the thread I made a few months ago on this topic, and I'm back for more!
Attached is the crossover schematic, direct from Tannoy. I'm planning on leaving the inductors alone but replacing all the capacitors and maybe the resistors in the tweeter networks. On Madisound, I found ClarityCap ESA capacitors to match each of the specified values (thanks to Face for the recommendation!). It was also suggested I try swapping out the stock resistor for a Mills for a smoother high end, which I can get from SonicCraft.
I have some extra Canare 4s11 lying around and figured maybe I could replace the internal wiring while I'm at it. Would this be a good idea? Any other little projects or adjustments I could perform while I've got the crossover and drivers pulled anyway?
Attached is the crossover schematic, direct from Tannoy. I'm planning on leaving the inductors alone but replacing all the capacitors and maybe the resistors in the tweeter networks. On Madisound, I found ClarityCap ESA capacitors to match each of the specified values (thanks to Face for the recommendation!). It was also suggested I try swapping out the stock resistor for a Mills for a smoother high end, which I can get from SonicCraft.
I have some extra Canare 4s11 lying around and figured maybe I could replace the internal wiring while I'm at it. Would this be a good idea? Any other little projects or adjustments I could perform while I've got the crossover and drivers pulled anyway?
My Stereo: Tannoy D100s, Yaqin MC-100B, VPI Traveler, Dynavector 10x5 MC Phono Cartridge, heavily modified Yaqin MS-22B phono preamp, TEAC EQA-20 equalizer, Belkin PureAV PF30 Power Conditioner, Canare 4s11 speaker cables, Custom dust cover from DigitalDeckCovers
Post edited by thetawave2 on
Comments
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A 12 watt Mills is only $4.95. You definitely want to replace the stock ones.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I agree with Jesse, definitely spring for a Mills resistor while you're in there. As for the wiring, IMO I wouldn't bother as Tannoy uses Van den hul wiring.thetawave2 wrote: »For a while now, I've been planning on re-capping my Tannoy D100 bookshelf speakers. Fortunately, the crossover design is quite simple and should be relatively inexpensive and easy for a first-time modder like myself. I am very grateful for all the guidance I got on the thread I made a few months ago on this topic, and I'm back for more!
Attached is the crossover schematic, direct from Tannoy. I'm planning on leaving the inductors alone but replacing all the capacitors and maybe the resistors in the tweeter networks. On Madisound, I found ClarityCap ESA capacitors to match each of the specified values (thanks to Face for the recommendation!). It was also suggested I try swapping out the stock resistor for a Mills for a smoother high end, which I can get from SonicCraft.
I have some extra Canare 4s11 lying around and figured maybe I could replace the internal wiring while I'm at it. Would this be a good idea? Any other little projects or adjustments I could perform while I've got the crossover and drivers pulled anyway?"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
Well I've just placed an order at Madisound for a set of ClarityCap ESA capacitors as well as an order at Sonic Craft for the Mills resistors and some Cardas Quad-Eutectic solder. I also bought 12 Vampire RG6 spades while I was at it, having seen Vampire recommended elsewhere on this forum. My cables will be a somewhat respectable bi-wire set at last!
Hopefully everything fits on the original circuit board. I sketched out a diagram and it seems like I should be able to squeeze everything in. If not, I'm sure I'll get some good ideas from VR3's mod threads. The original crossover components are secured mainly with hot glue. Is this a method I should use too, or can I do better?
With the crossover pulled, I was able to remove some stray packing peanuts from when the speakers were shipped to me from the previous owner. I still haven't figured out why the guy didn't bother to at least cover the ports before putting them in a box full of the stuff.
I suspect the gray foam pieces I see applied to the inside surfaces of the cabinet are aftermarket modifications, especially since they don't seem to fit perfectly. I might try to trim it back a bit for a better fit, especially where it partially obstructs the rear port. Any suggestions on determining if it's too much damping, besides trial and error?My Stereo: Tannoy D100s, Yaqin MC-100B, VPI Traveler, Dynavector 10x5 MC Phono Cartridge, heavily modified Yaqin MS-22B phono preamp, TEAC EQA-20 equalizer, Belkin PureAV PF30 Power Conditioner, Canare 4s11 speaker cables, Custom dust cover from DigitalDeckCovers -
I've fit Claritycap MRs on Tannoy boards before, ESAs shouldn't be an issue."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
