multipule amp wiring

soccerpharm
soccerpharm Posts: 9
edited November 2003 in Car Audio & Electronics
i have an alpine head unit with three pre amp outputs. i already have one amp wired to my subs using the sub output. i want to add 2 more amps for my front and rear speakers(polk gxr 6x9 and 4x6). any suggestions on which amps would be best and how i would go about wiring all three, particularly how to wire them to turn on at th same time when my head unit turns on.

thanks in advance.
Post edited by soccerpharm on

Comments

  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited November 2003
    When you install your amps you will run the amps remote lead to the head units remote turn on lead and the head unit will turn the amps on as soon as the hu is turned on.

    Rather than using 3 amps, I think you should look at a 4 channel. They are cheaper than buying 2, 2 channel amps and are a heck of a lot easier to install and you get the same, if not better, control and flexibility. As far as recommendations go, my favorite 4 channel amp is the Alpine V Power. Its not a high end amp but great for a budget system. Circuit City has them for $200 and you may be able to get it on sale. I got mine for $170. They are not that powerful but are very clean.

    If you want a high end amp then my favorites are Precision Power, Xtant, and Phoenix Gold. All have competition level 4 channels starting at $450 and are excellent SQ amps.

    But if you really want the best, Brax makes the cleanest, most tonaly accurate amps on the planet and for a mere $1400 you can have one for your very own! LOL
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
  • soccerpharm
    soccerpharm Posts: 9
    edited November 2003
    ok sounds easy enough, but i read some where that if your hooking up multipule amps that you might need a relay for all of them to turn on.
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited November 2003
    Lies! All lies!!!

    You run a wire, at least 8 gauge, from your battery down one side of the car to the amp. You put a fuse on the cable within 18" of the battery and run whatever you need depending on the amp. Then you get another wire, same gauge as the power wire, and run it to a ground point on the chassis. Then you run a smaller wire from the remote turn on lead on your CD player to the amp. Them your RCA's down the opposite side of the car, then the speaker wires on the same side as the RCA's. Bolt the amps down and youre done. No relays are needed.

    The CD player will send a small 12 volt signal to the amps thru the remote turn on lead and that is what turns the amps on. When you turn the CD player off, it cuts the signal to the amps and the amps turn off. No problemo
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
  • soccerpharm
    soccerpharm Posts: 9
    edited November 2003
    cool, thanks. im really interested in car audio installation. would you or anyone else know where i can learn this stuff, become certified, or what ever. i live BelAir,MD.
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited November 2003
    I have been dabbling in car audio since 1988 and learned what little I know by just getting out there in the drive way and figuring it out. I also read Car Audio and Electronics a lot and that mag is a wealth of knowledge. Also when you go to shops to buy your stuff, pick the brains of the installers that work there. If youre a paying customer most of those guys dont mind schoolin' ya. Ive learned quite a bit that way. So I advise you do some research on the web, read some mags and grab your owners manual and some wire strippers and get to it!
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited November 2003
    actualy depending on the grade of your headunit, you may need a relay mcleod...

    if you run like 6 amps off a cheapy aiwa head, u'll prolly burn out the remote turn on lead - hence using the relay for the turn on instead (turn on lead to relay coil, ground the other end... then power to pin 87 and amps remmy terminals to pin 30).

    however i run like 4 amps, at one time 5, off a single remote turn on lead. it's not the wisest thing i ever did, but i dont think anything short of 6 amps on a decent headunit will be aproblem.

    everything has its limit - and i think that remote lead is 500 milliamp. u'd have to test the resistance of the remote terminals on the amps, do the math, and figure out what the draw was... but point being made, if you DID have to use a relay, like a 2 amp pc socket relay would be all you'd need, not some 30 amp headlight one.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited November 2003
    Thats a good point. Ive always ran 2 amps so Id never run up on that. I never thought about 4+ amps but that does make sense.
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited November 2003
    if you do decide to run 3 amps, it wouldnt be such a bad idea to run your remote lead to a relay
    i can give you instructions of what to buy, where to buy it, and how to install it(courtesy of poweredbydodge...he told me) because im running 3 amps(soon to be 4) and 1 cap(soon to be 2) and have a relay
    its not expensive at all, nor is it hard to install, if you can install an amp or a hu, this is CAKE
    -Cody
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited November 2003
    I installed a system for a dude a few years back using 3 Coustic amps and his remote lead didnt work from the hu for some reason so I just wired the amps turn on to a 20 amp fuse that turned on with the ignition. I think it was the wipers or turn signal fuse. It worked ok and he never said he had any problem with it. The only problem is that the amps will stay on even with the hu off as long as the ignition is on. I dont know if this would be kosher for 4 or more amps but it seemed to work for 3 mid size.
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
  • soccerpharm
    soccerpharm Posts: 9
    edited November 2003
    cody, i would really appreciate some instructions on what to buy, where to but it and how to install it.
  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited November 2003
    run 20 gauge to a SPST (single pole single throw) relay's #85 pin.

    run pin #86 to ground.

    pin #87 goes to 12 volt power (off the caps or off one of the power lines -- 16 gauge wire - speaker wire is fine).

    pin #30 goes to all your **** - amps, caps, whatever u want to turn on.

    I think a 10 amp relay would be fine, but just try going to radio-**** and getting a 10 amp relay - the only ones you'll find are spdt PC board ones that are like the size of a quarter... unless you're the "hey cool i get to solder!" type, then you're not gonna want that. the only basic relays radio shack has is a SPST Automotive 30 Amp relay -- i duno the item number, but that's the item name. its 5 bucks... which is highway robbery, but again, unless you're buying **** online, radioshack is about the only place u can turn to - and they charge high.

    but that relay with some female spade clips will hook up in like 2 seconds. and its got a screw hole so you can actually screw it down to your back wall if y ou want.
    -courtesy of poweredbydodge, i had the same problem, and this is what he told me to do
    -Cody
  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited November 2003
    http://clubpolk.polkaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12622

    heres a link to a thread which is where i got that info from
    read it, itll help
    if all this pin numbers and stuff sounds confusing
    its not
    its a little black plastic box about 1"^3
    it has 4 pins sticking out
    the pins are labeled with numbers
    just connect the wire to the pin
    i promise you, once you see it, itll be EASY
    -Cody
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited November 2003
    ... i'm like encyclopedia britannica, only fatter and more italian.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge