Do film capacitors need replacement or only electrolytics?
Mystery
Posts: 2,546
I read in few threads that the yellow 12 uf capacitor in Monitor 7 is film type and does not need to be replaced.
Is that true statement and do film capacitors also degrade over the years?
Thanks for info.
Is that true statement and do film capacitors also degrade over the years?
Thanks for info.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
Post edited by Mystery on
Comments
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Films do not degrade the way electrolytic caps do. However, technology does improve over time, so there can be sonic benefits of upgrading to a new/better technology caps in the signal path.
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It's a mylar, not a film/foil. One could say the sound quality is somewhere between an electrolytic and a film/foil. Should it be replaced with a film/foil? Definitely.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I see.
I was hoping it'd work out just by replacing the 34uf capacitor with a 33uf and Mills 2ohms resistor.
I have 3 pairs of 7's so that's $60 even for the cheap six clarity px series 12uf capacitors.
I don't mind replacing if they have to be replaced but just wanted to confirm.
Thanks.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
I see.
I was hoping it'd work out just by replacing the 34uf capacitor with a 33uf and Mills 2ohms resistor.
I have 3 pairs of 7's so that's $60 even for the cheap six clarity px series 12uf capacitors.
I don't mind replacing if they have to be replaced but just wanted to confirm.
Thanks.
The mylar caps don't have to be replaced, because they don't degrade like electrolytics. However, as previously mentioned, performance and sound quality will likely improve if they are replaced by film/foil caps. But I've not said anything that hasn't already been said...
You should replace them both if you can. My advice would be to replace the 34uf caps in the midbass circuit with a cheaper brand such as Dayton or Solen. Since that cap is in parallel with the driver, it will not have as much impact on sonics as one that is in series. The 12uf is in series with the tweeter, where it will have more impact on the sonics, so that is where I would step up to at least a Clarity PX.2.1: PC>Schiit Gungnir MB>Schiit Freya Noval>NAD C-270>Ascend Acoustics Sierra-1, HSU STF-2 5.1: HDMI Bitstream>Denon AVR-1910>polkaudio RTE55, CS350-LS, RT3, HSU STF-2, Visio M55-F0 -
The mylar caps don't have to be replaced, because they don't degrade like electrolytics. However, as previously mentioned, performance and sound quality will likely improve if they are replaced by film/foil caps. But I've not said anything that hasn't already been said...
Thanks.
So far it's likely or can be better but is replacing mylar with PP film definitely better or just assumption that it'll be better?
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
Thanks.
So far it's likely or can be better but is replacing mylar with PP film definitely better or just assumption that it'll be better?
It will be better. Polk used mylar because the sonics & stability are better than electrolytic, but are still cheap enough to keep costs down. Like everything else, you get what you pay for with capacitors, generally. Take a look at the price of a mylar vs. a Clarity PX.
I'm not just guessing here. I've upgraded several pairs of Polk speakers that had mylar/electrolytic combinations using the methodology that I mentioned above. It has always made a noticeable improvement, and many times has been a major improvement.2.1: PC>Schiit Gungnir MB>Schiit Freya Noval>NAD C-270>Ascend Acoustics Sierra-1, HSU STF-2 5.1: HDMI Bitstream>Denon AVR-1910>polkaudio RTE55, CS350-LS, RT3, HSU STF-2, Visio M55-F0 -
Thanks.
So far it's likely or can be better but is replacing mylar with PP film definitely better or just assumption that it'll be better?
I already answered that....F1nut wrote:Should it be replaced with a film/foil? Definitely.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I already answered that....
Okay got it.
I'm not doing RTA-12C's soon as I've not decided whether to keep them or not.
Plan is to upgrade 3 pairs of 7's and SDA-2B's (all with SL2000) sometimes in the near future.
For them, I need:
8 X 2.7 ohm Mills resistors. --> 6 for 7's and 2 for 2B's.
8 x 12 uf Clarity PX capacitors. --> 6 for 7's and 2 for 2B's.
6 x 20 uF capacitors (or two 20 uf and two 39 uf Axon). Is there any reason to use two 20uf vs one 39 uf? --> 2B's use 40 uf.
6 x 33 uf capacitors. --> for 7's that use 34 uf.
I'll buy Armaflex or foam tape locally.
Already have solder but need to order some paste or buy local.
Anything that I need to add/change?
Thanks.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
