Going to spike my 2B's
gmcman
Posts: 1,806
I have been holding off on this for a while but given the consensus I will finally add some spikes.
I went with the black Dayton spikes and for some reason thought they were 1/4x20 so I need to head back to the hardware store to get the corresponting T-nuts.
Before I mount these spikes has anyone used them with less than satisfying results?
Also, has anyone built a box frame that fits inside the speaker base to attach the spikes to as to not tamper with the original feet?
I know Bugstyvy had the same concern with his speakers and while I will still spike them, for some reason I also want to keep from drilling into the base.
If I were to construct a base, would it decouple the speaker from the carpet in the same manner as pulling the nailed feet and adding spikes in the same location or would the added base need to be anchored to the speaker instead of the speaker just resting on it?
The 2nd base is just an idea, I don't mind drilling the stock base but if the end result is the same I may just slap some oak pieces together and add another base. Only issue I see is stability with the smaller footprint but I'm not going to push on them either.
I went with the black Dayton spikes and for some reason thought they were 1/4x20 so I need to head back to the hardware store to get the corresponting T-nuts.
Before I mount these spikes has anyone used them with less than satisfying results?
Also, has anyone built a box frame that fits inside the speaker base to attach the spikes to as to not tamper with the original feet?
I know Bugstyvy had the same concern with his speakers and while I will still spike them, for some reason I also want to keep from drilling into the base.
If I were to construct a base, would it decouple the speaker from the carpet in the same manner as pulling the nailed feet and adding spikes in the same location or would the added base need to be anchored to the speaker instead of the speaker just resting on it?
The 2nd base is just an idea, I don't mind drilling the stock base but if the end result is the same I may just slap some oak pieces together and add another base. Only issue I see is stability with the smaller footprint but I'm not going to push on them either.
Post edited by gmcman on
Comments
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I used the Dayton spikes on my 2B's. I bought some 6mm bolts and through bolted the spikes through the cabinet base. Worked for me. I know you don't want to drill into the base but IMHO you will get the better results if you do. I used 3 spikes instead of 4 also.I like speakers that are bigger than a small refrigerator but smaller than a big refrigerator:D
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I am wanting to spike mine too. I was wondering if I could just screw spikes into the holes where the little round plastic feet are?
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I never had mine spiked when I had them and as heavy as the 1B's are I doubt I'd ever have to do it with them either, but I find it interesting for sure!"if it's not fun, it's not worth it & remember folks, "It's All About The Music"!!
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MillerLiteScott wrote: »I used 3 spikes instead of 4 also.
I'm leaning towards 3 also, will be much easier to level and have more constant and even pressure on all tips.I am wanting to spike mine too. I was wondering if I could just screw spikes into the holes where the little round plastic feet are?
You would need to enlarge the hole from the factory nail.
My only concern is the fact I have kids and while there is a "force-field" :twisted: around the equipment, I cannot guarantee 100% that they wont get bumped or possibly forced in one direction and torque the spikes in the base.
Providing the base was 1" thick mahogony I wouldn't care...I just don't want to have a piece of the base crack and then mount further issues.
I was thinking of planing down down 1x3 oak and make a square base to fit snug inside the factory base, flush with the bottom of the factory base and maybe even use a spreader of some type to lightly press against the factory base fom the inside, just to make positive contact on the sides as well as the weight on the new base.
The smaller footprint has me slightly concerned in conjunction to using 3 spikes, may be too prone to tip but not sure. Perhaps the spikes could be splayed slightly to add stability.
I think I may try it unless I get a truckload of comments stating it's not going to work. Key points are to keep the new base solidly coupled to the speaker, without using fasteners, or glue.
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I spiked my 8t's with these but I also took off the factory base, then installed the spikes. I think it looks a whole lot better that way. When I drilled my holes I made sure that they would be covered up if I ever decided to install the factory base again. I used a low grade, black, automotive sealer which stays flexible so the cabinets would stay sealed....Remember, when you're running from something, you're running to something...-me
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tophatjohnny wrote: »I never had mine spiked when I had them and as heavy as the 1B's are I doubt I'd ever have to do it with them either, but I find it interesting for sure!
Unfortunately my basement slab has a mound of thick, dense carpet and the speakers literally "float" on the pile, they can easily wiggle around.
Spiking is a necessity in my case. -
smglbrth, that raised a brow......can the base of the 2B be removed from the inside?
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tophatjohnny wrote: »I never had mine spiked when I had them and as heavy as the 1B's are I doubt I'd ever have to do it with them either, but I find it interesting for sure!
Guess you'll never know the benefits. -
tophatjohnny wrote: »I never had mine spiked when I had them and as heavy as the 1B's are I doubt I'd ever have to do it with them either, but I find it interesting for sure!
You don't seem to grasp the purpose of spikes. The weight of the speaker has got squat to do with it.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
After laying the speaker on it's back, it's obvious the base is removable. Another thing I want to confirm that these 2B's are studio versions? Didn't feel like 80 lbs when I have moved them and the scale confirmed each at 60 lbs.
The sides of the base are a black veneer of somesort, I think I will construct a base out of oak and either laminate the sides or spray them black. Almost sounds like blasphemy but visually they will be the same with the addition of spikes. -
3 spikes per speaker works very well. 2 spikes on each side in front and one in the middle rear.
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Look to me like early 2B's. As far as studio versions I thought they were black but do have the same basic cabinets as yours. My 2A's look exactly the same with the exception of the base, which is taller and of the same veneer as the cabinets. Mine also weigh in the same range as yours.
I'd be anxious of your impressions of the spikes on these when you get it done!Remember, when you're running from something, you're running to something...-me -
Makes a lot of sense if they are stable enough. There would be not a "perfect" adjustment of each spike needed to keep them from rocking.Conradicles wrote: »3 spikes per speaker works very well. 2 spikes on each side in front and one in the middle rear.
As a machinist, from my point of view the spikes are increasing the pounds per square inch applied to each place a spike touches the floor thereby making a more solid connection to the floor. If that is the case then three spikes would apply more ppsi to the spot where they touch the floor than 4 spikes. It would be an interesting test to see if comparable speakers with 3 spikes sound better than 4 spikes.- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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spike em' if you got em'JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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Look to me like early 2B's. As far as studio versions I thought they were black but do have the same basic cabinets as yours. I'd be anxious of your impressions of the spikes on these when you get it done!
I believe they added walnut at the end of 1989, could be earlier but not certain on the date.
Hopefully I can test them tonight, Skins game put me a little behind but was worth it! :biggrin:
Progress so far, first base glued and clamped. -
gmcman, my suggestion would be to forget replacing the riser (btw, butt joints suck) and use 2" high spikes instead like I did. I used 4 spikes 1" back from each corner. Not only does it look better than having the riser, having the spikes close to the corners adds stability to the speaker.I believe they added walnut at the end of 1989
The vinyl covering on yours is not walunt, it's oak.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
You don't seem to grasp the purpose of spikes. The weight of the speaker has got squat to do with it.
Oh your replies are so elegant! Do you spike your hair too?? Just wondering??:biggrin:"if it's not fun, it's not worth it & remember folks, "It's All About The Music"!!
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Another side step, a weak one at that.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
depends on the gel you use there in the windy city. Send me your address and I'll send ya a new batch of Spike Gel. It's the strongest kind!Another side step, a weak one at that.
You come off with crap shots and no explanation, so I'm just trying to keep it light boss man. I have no idea whay someone would put spikes on the bottom of their speakers, other than to keep them in place, but maybe there's another reason. I know..if ya told me, ya's have to kill me..right?? Like to see that trick!!:rolleyes:"if it's not fun, it's not worth it & remember folks, "It's All About The Music"!!
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If you look around this forum I'm sure you will find the 100 or so times I and others have already explained it.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
If you look around this forum I'm sure you will find the 100 or so times I and others have already explained it.
Will do!"if it's not fun, it's not worth it & remember folks, "It's All About The Music"!!
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george daniel wrote: »spike em' if you got em'
Hahaha, this is actually good advice.
I don't completely understand why spikes work but I can tell you they sure make my listening much more enjoyable.
Doesn't hurt to try. -
Spikes for stability and vibration control = better imaging, sound reproduction and bass.
That's what I understood but I'm not in mood for any project yet and it's in the back burner. :loneranger:
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
gmcman, my suggestion would be to forget replacing the riser and use 2" high spikes instead like I did.
Yeah it's going to look weird with spikes under the riser now that you mentioned it. I wanted to go with 3 spikes but the rear screw is right in the middle and I didn't want to attach another piece of wood to accomodate a rear spike.
This will be a preliminary design to see what differences the spikes will produce. I'm still getting cold feet drilling into the base so I will let this run for awhile and probably use a single piece of material next time and make it just thick enough to hold the spikes. This way I can use a single rear spike and go slightly larger on the footprint thus still allowing for the rear mounting screw.
Might run it out to within 1/2" of the edges so the spikes provide more stability. In the end, who knows I may just bore through the base but going to give this a whirl first.btw, butt joints suck
Heck yeah they do, especially when you cut them with a RAS. Too much in the way at the time to pull out the table saw and that would have made very nice joints... but I had one pop on me but I re-glued and added much more clamp pressure.
That's why I didn't go with 45's since I needed the table saw for accuracy.
I will get these mounted up tonight and see what happens, may not get a listen to until tomorrow since our power just came back on. Went out 5 min after I got home. I would have finished last night but hanging Christmas lights and football took top honors. -
So I couldn't just go to bed without at least going for a test drive.
I will surely try another base to use 3 spikes instead of 4....for now I can live with 4 but leveling was a PITA and these spikes give little to no room for adjustment using the factory inserts given their short threaded portion....hurricane bolts or at least brad-anchored T-Nut is far better.
Being a trial stage again I don't mind, getting them off my dense carpet is the primary focus.
Now the good......
With everyone fast asleep I couldn't crank it up, but my first impressions are as if someone took the 100Hz slider and moved it down a few notches, For the record...no, I don't use an EQ. The bass guitar is much more clear and the vocals and soundstage imaging are cleaner.
Maybe if someone has thin berber the results possibly won't be as dramatic and that's just a speculation.... but I surely noticed a difference almost immediately.
I will get some listening time in tomorrow but for now the outlook is good. I like what I heard and it was definately different. -
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Think about this. That stock riser is only attached with 4 screws and is not exactly creating a solid bond between it and the cabinet. So, if you make a new riser of sorts how are you going to attach it, the same 4 screw holes? You're still not going to get a solid bond. It makes more sense to mount the spikes directly to the cabinet to get the best possible benefit.
So, don't be afraid to drill into the base as you're only drilling enough to hammer in some T-nuts, IIRC about a 3/4". Use a drill stop if you're that worried about it. One thing you will need to do is fill the holes that the riser screws went into as they go thru the base.
Funny thing about the 4 spikes verses 3 spikes thing. I've never had a problem adjusting 4 spikes, but I've got these speaker stands with 3 spikes that gave me absolute fits getting them adjusted. For a big speaker I'd always go with 4.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
After 1 month:
I havent changed the base to try 3 spikes yet or to use T-Nuts to gain more adjustment over the stock Dayton inserts, but I wanted to report that the difference over the stock base with no spikes was very obvious.
Bass is tighter, small amount of muddiness is gone which has impoved detail. These spikes have limited adjustment so when I switch to the T-Nuts I can get the speakers perfectly level but they are very, very close.
Definately spike them if you have carpet, difference is immediately obvious.
