Ethereal ESO-1 Power Strip
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Lol wow, I actually saw a Macintosh Watt gauge set on Ebay a while back, looked cool but other than replacing an existing one what else would you use it for? I guess you could do that with itHome theater:
43” Westinghouse Displayer
Marantz UD-7007 Player
Emotiva MC-700 Processor
Adcom GFA-5006 Amplifier
Parasound Zamp Amplifier
Ethereal ESO-1 Power Conditioner
Klipsch RC-10 Center
Klipsch R34c Fronts
Klipsch RB-41 Surrounds
Polk audio PSW-505
Stereo:
Polk audio RTA-12c’s fully upgraded crossovers
DIY 12tc braided speaker cables
Denon DVD-5910ci Spinner
Parasound P6 Preamplifer
Parasound HCA -1500a Amplifier -
It would prolly be pretty cool if you are into that.
Not so sure I am at this point.:cool:
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One of the advantages to using an IEC input and receptacles (not pre-wired) is that you can buy a few feet of excellent power cable (DH Labs, VH Audio, XLO ect), and strip the wire out of the power cable to wire the receptacle to the IEC input.
Good wire does make a difference.
And the fact that you can re-purpose the shielding if needed is just an extra benefit.
VH Audio has the best shielding in the business for example.
Hard to work with at first, but once you understand it, simple!Testing
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Mr. Sharpe wrote: »I was going to tell Speedskater that the grey plastic boxes on the back of these outlets have UL listed stickers on them. Could the two gang boxes that came with them just be for in wall installation and not much more since they already have their own ul boxes??
The NEC & UL people are very specific about how each part is used (some might say it's A_something). The plastic boxes appear to be for in-wall use. The wire nuts (splices) need to be in something. In any case I favor soft steel enclosures over plastic or aluminum boxes.
Remember to twist your Hot/Neutral pairs. -
Speedskater wrote: »The NEC & UL people are very specific about how each part is used (some might say it's A_something). The plastic boxes appear to be for in-wall use. The wire nuts (splices) need to be in something. In any case I favor soft steel enclosures over plastic or aluminum boxes.
Remember to twist your Hot/Neutral pairs.
I like the aluminum boxes.
The mild steel boxes seem to corrode pretty quickly even when painted.
The plastic ones are rated for outdoors, and are the best if you need to insert a UL listed IEC input.
Love the aluminum though, because you can "roll on" some interior "sound damping" material.:cheesygrin:
The weight of the smaller boxes can be an issue when using big/stiff power cables, but once you get into the 2 receptacle boxes it becomes less of an issue due to the "width" of the box (much more stable than a single receptacle box).
Adding the sound deadening material, and even spikes can be beneficial when using said (heavy/stiff) power cables.
I strip the aluminum boxes and use truck bed liner spay on them and it is a beautimus thing.
You just have to make sure the aluminum box is pretty well "warm" before spray painting.Testing
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Speedskater wrote: »Remember to twist your Hot/Neutral pairs.
I am not going to comment on wiring on a public forum, and you should not take such advice either.
Seek an electrician for advice on wiring.Testing
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Speedskater wrote: »The NEC & UL people are very specific about how each part is used (some might say it's A_something). The plastic boxes appear to be for in-wall use. The wire nuts (splices) need to be in something. In any case I favor soft steel enclosures over plastic or aluminum boxes.
Remember to twist your Hot/Neutral pairs.
so are you the Electrical police? just curious. In any case you favor soft steel enclosures? lol funny stuff speedy:)
I do have electrical tape over what I spliced with the wire nuts, I redid that after the fact. thanks for the info.Home theater:
43” Westinghouse Displayer
Marantz UD-7007 Player
Emotiva MC-700 Processor
Adcom GFA-5006 Amplifier
Parasound Zamp Amplifier
Ethereal ESO-1 Power Conditioner
Klipsch RC-10 Center
Klipsch R34c Fronts
Klipsch RB-41 Surrounds
Polk audio PSW-505
Stereo:
Polk audio RTA-12c’s fully upgraded crossovers
DIY 12tc braided speaker cables
Denon DVD-5910ci Spinner
Parasound P6 Preamplifer
Parasound HCA -1500a Amplifier -
You should consider one of these:
http://www.revolutionpower.com/p/Acme+Audio+Labs+CJ+15A+Silver+Cryo+AGC+Fuse+Holder/172/
And one of these in your box:
http://www.revolutionpower.com/p/HiFi-dsh-Tuning-Fuse-Audiophile-gold/145/
Can't speak for the fuse (on sale), never used one, I use Furutech, Isoclean, and Acme fuses with excellent results.:cheesygrin:
The fuse holder is better than stock (much better), to say the least (from experience).
NO affiliation, just a VERY happy customer over the last 2 years or more (I quit dealing with Sonic Craft, too many "problems" with my transactions:evil:).
And Sonic Craft is in the state I reside!!!!
Revolution is the best customer service I have ever experienced, bar none (and I think I have dealt with all of them) FYI!:cheesygrin:
Those two combined are some VERY cheap insurance!:cool:Testing
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Shoot, that ain't bad, I thought you were going to show me a $400 fuse made of platinum lol
Merry Christmas to all who are subscribed to this thread btw:)
I'M GETTING A NEW TV FOR CHRISTMAS HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!! HD HERE I COME:cheesygrin:Home theater:
43” Westinghouse Displayer
Marantz UD-7007 Player
Emotiva MC-700 Processor
Adcom GFA-5006 Amplifier
Parasound Zamp Amplifier
Ethereal ESO-1 Power Conditioner
Klipsch RC-10 Center
Klipsch R34c Fronts
Klipsch RB-41 Surrounds
Polk audio PSW-505
Stereo:
Polk audio RTA-12c’s fully upgraded crossovers
DIY 12tc braided speaker cables
Denon DVD-5910ci Spinner
Parasound P6 Preamplifer
Parasound HCA -1500a Amplifier -
The NEC Police? not me? Just because something doesn't meet code, doesn't mean that it's not safe. But then I wouldn't post projects that others might copy that weren't both safe and up to code.
Soft steel boxes and twisted pairs both reduce interference. Both are safe and cheap, so why not? -
Speedskater wrote: »The NEC Police? not me? Just because something doesn't meet code, doesn't mean that it's not safe. But then I wouldn't post projects that others might copy that weren't both safe and up to code.
Soft steel boxes and twisted pairs both reduce interference. Both are safe and cheap, so why not?
Just sooo many options to a box like that.:cheesygrin:
I would however refrain from giving wiring advice on a public forum.
Not that your wrong, I am not dogging you, instead offering some advice.
These are lethal voltages we are talking about, and taking yours, or anyones advice on an "Audio Forum" concerning wiring is not a good idea.
Don't mention NEC, if you are not following the advice of, or having the work done by a Certified Electrician.
You guys should go to pm.
There are other people reading this thread.
Just saying.:cheesygrin:Testing
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Speedskater wrote: »The NEC Police? not me? Just because something doesn't meet code, doesn't mean that it's not safe. But then I wouldn't post projects that others might copy that weren't both safe and up to code.
Soft steel boxes and twisted pairs both reduce interference. Both are safe and cheap, so why not?
fella I meant absolutely nothing by that, I was just joking:)Home theater:
43” Westinghouse Displayer
Marantz UD-7007 Player
Emotiva MC-700 Processor
Adcom GFA-5006 Amplifier
Parasound Zamp Amplifier
Ethereal ESO-1 Power Conditioner
Klipsch RC-10 Center
Klipsch R34c Fronts
Klipsch RB-41 Surrounds
Polk audio PSW-505
Stereo:
Polk audio RTA-12c’s fully upgraded crossovers
DIY 12tc braided speaker cables
Denon DVD-5910ci Spinner
Parasound P6 Preamplifer
Parasound HCA -1500a Amplifier -
I hope I did not come off hard on ya either speedskater, this is a discussion of something that interests all 3 of us (in this thead atleast).
Obviously you have interest in this subject which I respect 100%.
And that said would enjoy your input.
Wiring comments are left to pm though please!
Looking forward to your input, I can see that I have been alittle short in my responses, and I surely did not mean for it to sound like that.
This is a discussion, and your input is appreciated!
PM me anytime!Testing
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