trying to measure my amps preamps speaks for compliance with my volt/ohm meter

scottyboy76
scottyboy76 Posts: 2,905
edited December 2012 in Electronics
Just posted this in the wrong forum, sorry mods.

Looking to use my volt/ohm meter to see if, say, my amp (gfa555) is putting out same on both channels.

Also, have seen here where one can check the impedance of your speakers (Mirage om10s) that are biwired, as well as speaks that only have one set of binding posts.

Any help is appreciated, either pointing out threads here, typing instructions here, or guiding me to sites with pretty plain instructions, as i am old.

I would look it up here myself, but i cant seem to find the right terminology to narrow down searches to threads that would apply.

In other words not sure what these tests are commonly called.

thanks guys
humpty dumpty was pushed
Post edited by scottyboy76 on

Comments

  • CoolJazz
    CoolJazz Posts: 570
    edited December 2012
    You've made reference to several different things, so it's a bit unclear what you're trying to accomplish.

    If what you're trying to do is match levels from left to right, then putting on a mono recording and adjusting it to center is easiest.

    But to go with a portion of what you've said, to match levels, then you'll need a recording to play with that has at least one single steady tone on it. Ideally, pick one thats away from a crossover frequency. Set your meter to AC volts on a range to meter a very few volts. Like in the range of a couple or so. Set your volume level to a fairly low level so as to not hurt your ears or the speakers. (Steady state notes can damage at a much lower level than music) Apply the tone and meter at the wires into the speakers or out of the amp. Read one and then the other channel and compare. If not high enough level to see a steady number then carefully increase and remeasure.

    Volt-Ohm meters cannot directly read impedance which could be another thing you might be referring to. For that you need an impedance meter. To check for basic DC continutity to see if something is burnt up, then again listening is easiest. But you can go to a low scale and see if you see a few ohms resistance which comes pretty close to matching between the left and right speakers.

    CJ
    A so called science type proudly says... "I do realize that I would fool myself all the time, about listening conclusions and many other observations, if I did listen before buying. That’s why I don’t, I bought all of my current gear based on technical parameters alone, such as specs and measurements."

    More amazing Internet Science Pink Panther wisdom..."My DAC has since been upgraded from Mark Levinson to Topping."
  • scottyboy76
    scottyboy76 Posts: 2,905
    edited December 2012
    Sorry for the confusing post.

    Basically, I have read where you can check the electrical output of each channell of an amp with the leads of a meter.

    If im remembering correctly,(its been awhile, and At the time just casually read, not thinking i would be doing it) it is reading either where speaker wires come out of the amp, or where they hook to speakers.

    Its not judging sound, more the electrical reading.

    I also asked about measuring impedance while i was at it, but not a biggie.

    Thanks for the response cj, and I might go ahead and do what you suggested separately for kicks.
    humpty dumpty was pushed
  • scottyboy76
    scottyboy76 Posts: 2,905
    edited December 2012
    Just reread your post cj, and actually what you sugg. with a steady tone and reading at certain points sounds like what i read in the past.

    Thanks and any other advice is still welcome
    humpty dumpty was pushed
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,987
    edited December 2012
    If you have a DMM check for DC offset. That can mess up channel balance. Hope you're under 50mv; you're real good below 20mv. If you're up near, or worse above, 100, find a repair shop.

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work