Mechanic Feedback - Blown Head Gasket?

Erik Tracy

My POS Toyota PU may have a blown head gasket.

I'm hearing gurgling water noises from the engine compartment when I accelerate from a stop.

Any tips/suggestions for confirming?

I didn't see any white smoke from the tail pipe while driving.

No drips of water under the truck when I parked.

ken brydson

Check the oil. If it's kind of "milky" looking that will tell you for sure.

Erik Tracy

Ok - will do. I'm at work right now (shhh...don't tell my boss I'm on PF), but will try to check at lunch.

I've ruled out 'rough running' cuz I already know about the bad exhaust valve on cylinder 5 (low compression test last week after the check engine light came on - the valve is causing a 'lean' detection).

I'm on my second engine in this POS (first was a blown head gasket)

sda2mike

very low on coolant?

Erik Tracy

sda2mike wrote: »

very low on coolant?

I'll check that too at lunch - engine should be cool enough to check.

Grrr....

Thanks guys!

Msabot1

Milkshake engine oil and blowby from oil filler cap when engine is running? Check those!

strider

Is it a 3.0 V6? If so, yeah it's probably head gaskets.

gdb

If you can hear it, it's probably happening in your heater core which is a mini radiator inside the pass. compartment behind/under the dashboard. What does your coolant resevoir level look like ? The levels are different between hot and cold, if it gets to no coolant showing when cold (and hot), you're low and have drawn air into the system. Top it off (to correct level) when hot and see where it ends up when completely cooled, add more if needed when cooled. A head gasket or intake manifold gasket problem does not always make itself known in the same way. A hydrocarbon test kit can give you a more definitive answer from your coolant.

http://www.ehow.com/video_12213890_check-exhaust-fumes-antifreeze.html

Erik Tracy

I checked the coolant level - engine is now cold and it looks to be full and just over the top of the inside radiator cores.

I checked the oil - just had it changed two weeks ago - it looks clear and clean - no white/milkiness.

I'll probably take it to my mechanic for a look see.

The valve job alone was estimated to be $2K total - add this problem to that....I'm done with this Toyota.

I'm on a second engine now after the first one blew a head gasket at 64,000, bad ignition switch, replaced right front axle, clutch, fuel pump, radiator (on the first engine before it blew), O2 sensors (multiple times), Exhaust recycle valve.....POS....

thsmith

Good luck, I hate vechicle problem. We just moved to KS and my wifes 12 year old Expedition started smelling like antifreeze when she turned on the heat.

No clue who to go to and I avoid dealerships, Angies List served us well.

pitdogg2

Erik Tracy wrote: »

I checked the coolant level - engine is now cold and it looks to be full and just over the top of the inside radiator cores.

I checked the oil - just had it changed two weeks ago - it looks clear and clean - no white/milkiness.

I'll probably take it to my mechanic for a look see.

The valve job alone was estimated to be $2K total - add this problem to that....I'm done with this Toyota.

I'm on a second engine now after the first one blew a head gasket at 64,000, bad ignition switch, replaced right front axle, clutch, fuel pump, radiator (on the first engine before it blew), O2 sensors (multiple times), Exhaust recycle valve.....POS....

look closely at all the radiator hoses a very small pin hole will allow just enough air to make to gurgles sound. you should be able to see some discoloration where a little antifreeze has leaked. When you get home after driving it squeeze all the hoses while under pressure and you could very well see the problem...do I need to caution you against the HOT surface???

gdb

thsmith wrote: »

Good luck, I hate vechicle problem. We just moved to KS and my wifes 12 year old Expedition started smelling like antifreeze when she turned on the heat.

No clue who to go to and I avoid dealerships, Angies List served us well.

That's usually indication of a pinhole leak in your heater core, those vapors are NOT good to breathe. You could try Barrs Leaks or some other repsected cooling system stop leak/sealer, replacing a heater core is usually a huge pain in the a$$ and is best done by a body/upholstery shop.

gdb

Erik Tracy wrote: »

I checked the coolant level - engine is now cold and it looks to be full and just over the top of the inside radiator cores.

I checked the oil - just had it changed two weeks ago - it looks clear and clean - no white/milkiness.

I'll probably take it to my mechanic for a look see.

The valve job alone was estimated to be $2K total - add this problem to that....I'm done with this Toyota.

I'm on a second engine now after the first one blew a head gasket at 64,000, bad ignition switch, replaced right front axle, clutch, fuel pump, radiator (on the first engine before it blew), O2 sensors (multiple times), Exhaust recycle valve.....POS....

Does your truck not have a coolant overflow/recovery resevoir ? That is the point where coolant level should checked and ajusted.

disneyjoe7

Sounds like the coolant level is low.

pitdogg2

gdb wrote: »

That's usually indication of a pinhole leak in your heater core, those vapors are NOT good to breathe. You could try Barrs Leaks or some other repsected cooling system stop leak/sealer, replacing a heater core is usually a huge pain in the a$$ and is best done by a body/upholstery shop.

^^^^ correct BUT I'd skip any kind of stop leak it just puts off the inevitable ...like the heater core letting go and everytime you step on the gas the radiator fluid fills the passager side floor....that is the REAL PAIN....
In my experience the stop leak just gives a false confidence that you've fixed the problem when in reality it's just a band-aid

sucks2beme

It could be as simple as air in the system.
The real issue here, is if it's worth your while or not.
Every vehicle comes to that point. Sounds like you are there.

gdb

pitdogg2 wrote: »

^^^^ correct BUT I'd skip any kind of stop leak it just puts off the inevitable ...like the heater core letting go and everytime you step on the gas the radiator fluid fills the passager side floor....that is the REAL PAIN....
In my experience the stop leak just gives a false confidence that you've fixed the problem when in reality it's just a band-aid

Actaully.....it's a factory service bulletin item for several major auto makers, GM being the one I'm certain of.

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0611_ghtp_ls1_engine_build/photo_45.html

pitdogg2

gdb wrote: »

Actaully.....it's a factory service bulletin item for several major auto makers, GM being the one I'm certain of.

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0611_ghtp_ls1_engine_build/photo_45.html

yes i know that but the OP most likely has the same original heater core and it more than likely way do for replacement.
I have seen engines that used that stuff and sometimes it blocks vital ports that can cause bigger problems down the road.

newrival

yeah that stop leak can be pretty bad, but it is vehicle dependent. GM recommended it on my pre-2004 32 valve Northstar, but the warned about how it clogs ports. Those tabs (made out of ginger, IIRC) were supposed to be the least harmful, and work well in certain circumstances, but I would definitely do a little research before plopping them in. Unfortunately Caddies (mine included) leak like a sieve and head gaskets have been quite a plague.

To the OP, I think gdp has given some good advice as what to look for. The burbling noise makes me think heater core right away. This could just be a symptom of another issue, or it could be exactly what gdp described. Or, equally possible, I could be completely wrong

sucks2beme

If there's no sign of coolant burning(white smoke/smell) no coolant with the oil
and no oil in the coolant, then check for moisture in the carpet area under the heater core.
If no, then I vote it's air in the cooling system. It's really hard to get the air out of the system
in modern cars. That turns into a "shop" fix.
I have a coolant pressure test kit that comes in handy for these things. A shop can test that while
flushing the coolant and getting the air out.

gdb

Without a recovery resevoir , there HAS to be air in the system, and filling it up will just blow coolant out the overflow tube upon reaching operation temp and the resulting expansion. If there's no resevoir, the first order of business should be to install one. Oh yeah, I just got a low mileage 2005 Pont. GXP Bonneville w/Northstar V8.................I think the Goodwrench pellets are walnut wood fibers for sealing up the head/IM gasket areas. I was amazed that I could still purchase a service agreement contract for such an old vehicle but, I snatched it up because I KNOW it'll be needed and will more than pay for itself long term.

newrival

Nice score on the bonneville. Despite the leak issues, the northstar is an AWESOME engine. The automation in it is just crazy. But One thing to looks for is to make sure the previous owner wasnt using green coolant on that aluminum block. Tht can be some serious trouble. But all in all, it is super impressive. An on the highway with the Allison/caddy 4-speed trans I get over 30mpg. And the car is nearly 5000lb!
Sorry for the thread jack. Back to the topic at hand.

gudnoyez

strider wrote: »

Is it a 3.0 V6? If so, yeah it's probably head gaskets.

Ah yes the dreaded 3.0 V6 Toyotas problem child. Camrays, Landcruisers, and the pre Tacoma 4 wheel drive trucks circa 89 -94 models were cursed with these. I own a 93 4wd truck with said 3.0 V6. I use as winter transportation leave the cars in the garage to avoid all that Salt. The truck only has 75,000 miles on it runs like a bat out of hell but always has coolant leakge issues, from headgaskets, waterpumps, thermostat housing, idler pulley coolant passages, yeah they were plauged thats for sure fix one coolant leak another shows up. it still runs and I drive it on camping and fishing trips, just watch those coolant levels.