Parasound 2250 headed this way!

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Comments

  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,967
    edited November 2012
    snake1 wrote: »
    Is that not the role my Onkyo is playing?

    Yes it is, but for music it does about as good a job as 87 octane does for a Corvette. Everything matters in your chain, a pre amp would help some sure, also get yourself some better cables than that Walmart spool stuff along with some better interconnects.

    An amp's job is to supply power when the speaker demands it, giving you better clarity, definition in the bass notes, and a more insightfull look into the music. You've seemed to experience this so I'm not sure what else you where expecting. An amp isn't going to turn the 12's into a subwoofer if thats what you were looking for.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • snake1
    snake1 Posts: 567
    edited November 2012
    Irrenhaus wrote: »
    Hey I got the same feelings when I installed the Adcom 585 until I ran the audessey again and that made a big difference.

    Thats encouraging to know. Should I run Audyssey in the 4-8ohm amp position or the 2-3ohm position its on now?
    tonyb wrote: »
    Yes it is, but for music it does about as good a job as 87 octane does for a Corvette. Everything matters in your chain, a pre amp would help some sure, also get yourself some better cables than that Walmart spool stuff along with some better interconnects.

    An amp's job is to supply power when the speaker demands it, giving you better clarity, definition in the bass notes, and a more insightfull look into the music. You've seemed to experience this so I'm not sure what else you where expecting. An amp isn't going to turn the 12's into a subwoofer if thats what you were looking for.

    I can handle better wires soon I suppose. I did get some new banana plugs and have them installed already. I realize its not going to turn it into a sub, I just expected more out of the woofers in the 12s I guess. The way people talk about adding amps though just sounds like some 'miracle' difference.
    AVR - Onkyo NR809
    500gb HD for MP3 and FLAC files
    Amp - Parasound 2250 - FOR SALE BTW!! PM me if interested!
    Mains - Polk RTi12 towers
    Center - CSi5
    Surround - FXiA6's
    Sub - psw505
    Movies and games - PS3
    TV - Toshiba 52" HD

    Every vehicle has one good nuetral drop in it
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    edited November 2012
    Normally the "miracle difference" are exactly what your hearing now. However without re-run your EQ (or just running in direct only) your using a EQ that is based on the power output from your AVR, not your amp so its not really a fair compare as your amp has reserves your AVR did not have.

    It should be clearer, more focused and better tighter bass, all of which you have mentioned. Plus you should be able to crank it MUCH higher and not have any distortion, however dont crank it till you re-run the EQ.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • snake1
    snake1 Posts: 567
    edited November 2012
    Normally the "miracle difference" are exactly what your hearing now. However without re-run your EQ (or just running in direct only) your using a EQ that is based on the power output from your AVR, not your amp so its not really a fair compare as your amp has reserves your AVR did not have.

    It should be clearer, more focused and better tighter bass, all of which you have mentioned. Plus you should be able to crank it MUCH higher and not have any distortion, however dont crank it till you re-run the EQ.

    Oh ok!!! See I didn't realize that about the calibrations! Makes sense now that I think about it! Cool, I'll try to get it done asap and get back with y'all!
    AVR - Onkyo NR809
    500gb HD for MP3 and FLAC files
    Amp - Parasound 2250 - FOR SALE BTW!! PM me if interested!
    Mains - Polk RTi12 towers
    Center - CSi5
    Surround - FXiA6's
    Sub - psw505
    Movies and games - PS3
    TV - Toshiba 52" HD

    Every vehicle has one good nuetral drop in it
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    edited November 2012
    snake1 wrote: »
    Oh ok!!! See I didn't realize that about the calibrations! Makes sense now that I think about it! Cool, I'll try to get it done asap and get back with y'all!

    Direct mode for music is the only fair compare as it turns off the EQ curve you created, so you could technically throw in some music and see what difference you hear in Direct mode only.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • snake1
    snake1 Posts: 567
    edited November 2012
    Alrighty, auto calibration has been run. I'll check back later tonight after I can test it some. I ran auto cal with the amp in 4-8ohm mode since my speakers are 8ohm anyway. Btw, I would tell you how its going now but I just ran it after I put the little ones down for nap... so have to wait a while before I can use any real volume.
    AVR - Onkyo NR809
    500gb HD for MP3 and FLAC files
    Amp - Parasound 2250 - FOR SALE BTW!! PM me if interested!
    Mains - Polk RTi12 towers
    Center - CSi5
    Surround - FXiA6's
    Sub - psw505
    Movies and games - PS3
    TV - Toshiba 52" HD

    Every vehicle has one good nuetral drop in it
  • gce
    gce Posts: 2,158
    edited November 2012
    Sounds like you should have gotten your SVS first. Not that an Amp is bad idea, but seeing that you don't have a sub and do more movies then music the SVS would have put a bigger smile on your face to start with.

    Hope you getter dialed in!
    Anaheim Hills CA,
    HT 5.1: Anthem MRX 720 / BDP-Denon DBT1713UD / Polkaudio LSiM703 / W4S mAmp's / Polkaudio LSiM706c / Polkaudio LSiM702F/X's / SVS PC12-NSD / Panasonic TC P55VT30

    2 Channel: Rogue RP-5 / WireWorld Electra power cord / Marantz TT-15S1/ Ortofon - Quintet Black MC / Marantz NA8005 DAC / W4S mAmp's / Synology DS 216+ll-4TB / Polkaudio LSiM703
  • Drenis
    Drenis Posts: 2,871
    edited November 2012
    A few things...

    - Keep that ohm switch at 4-8
    - Check to ensure that the HPF is not engaged in any means on the back of the amp. You could have engaged it and that will not send lows below whatever cutoff is selected.
    - Get some better wire when possible

    How are the speakers placed? Measurements?

    The biggest difference you should notice is not only how full music sounds when playing louder but that bass is tight and solid. Hell go back to your old setup in pure direct mode and throw the amp back in. The 12's hit low, but if you like your bass hot, a sub should have been the first investment instead of using EQ controls which can damage a speaker if your playing it loud.
  • Thorton
    Thorton Posts: 1,324
    edited November 2012
    Normally the "miracle difference" are exactly what your hearing now. However without re-run your EQ (or just running in direct only) your using a EQ that is based on the power output from your AVR, not your amp so its not really a fair compare as your amp has reserves your AVR did not have.

    It should be clearer, more focused and better tighter bass, all of which you have mentioned. Plus you should be able to crank it MUCH higher and not have any distortion, however dont crank it till you re-run the EQ.

    ES is right on with all of his replies. Start with the suggestions from various replies. I have this amp and you should notice the differences ES states when listening to music in Pure Direct or Direct mode. However, you will probably not shatter glass but you'll feel the concussions on your body. You may have to do some detective work to look at your source, cables, set-up, placement, etc. as others have stated. Also, my A7's took about 100-200 hrs of use to really open up. Good Luck.
    _____________________________________________________________________________________________
    Ethernet Filter: GigaFOILv4 with Keces P3 LPS
    Source: Roon via ethernet to DAC interface
    DAC: Bricasti M1SE
    Pre/Pro: Marantz AV8805
    Tube Preamp Buffer: Tortuga TPB.V1
    Amp1: Nord One NC1200DM Signature, Amp2: W4S MC-5, AMP3: W4S MMC-7
    Front: Salk SoundScape 8's, Center: Salk SoundScape C7
    Surround: Polk FXIA6, Surround Back: Polk RTIA9, Atmos: Polk 70-RT
    Subs: 2 - Rythmik F25's
    IC & Speaker Cables: Acoustic Zen, Wireworld, Signal Cable
    Power Cables: Acoustic Zen, Wireworld, PS Audio
    Room Treatments: GIK Acoustics
  • snake1
    snake1 Posts: 567
    edited November 2012
    :biggrin::biggrin::cheesygrin:WOOO HOOO!!!! :cheesygrin: Did the recalibration and that made the 'miracle difference'!!! Much more bass on tap now all through the range and cranking just moderately starts thumping hard (keep in mind my bass is turned up, but I'll turn that down some now)!!!!

    This was definately the difference I was expecting! I'll start some critical listening in the coming weeks and also give the amp more time to break in. Can't wait now!!! Thanks to all for your suggestions!!! ES and Irrenhaus had the main answer! More info and review coming in the coming weeks!!!
    AVR - Onkyo NR809
    500gb HD for MP3 and FLAC files
    Amp - Parasound 2250 - FOR SALE BTW!! PM me if interested!
    Mains - Polk RTi12 towers
    Center - CSi5
    Surround - FXiA6's
    Sub - psw505
    Movies and games - PS3
    TV - Toshiba 52" HD

    Every vehicle has one good nuetral drop in it
  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    edited November 2012
    :mrgreen:LOL, enjoy Snake!
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • Obsession18
    Obsession18 Posts: 191
    edited November 2012
    Now that you have the amp working to your liking, the next step in my opinion is a dedicated 2-channel preamp with home theater bypass. Your basically following the same path I did, initially I was using a Pioneer Elite AVR (in pure direct) to feed my Parasound 2250 for music. When I added the Cambridge Audio 840E preamp (which has the bypass feature) things really opened up, every part of the frequency spectrum was improved.
    2-Channel System
    Analog: VPI Traveler TT, Audio Technica 150MLX, Pro-Ject Tube Box DS
    CD Player: Jolida JD-100 Preamp: Cambridge 840E Amp: Odyssey Kismet Stereo
    Spkrs: Tyler Acoustics Linbrook Signature Systems
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,987
    edited November 2012
    tonyb wrote: »
    ... but for music it does about as good a job as 87 octane does for a Corvette. Everything* matters[!] in your chain, a pre amp would help some sure... Get yourself some better [speaker] cables than that Walmart spool stuff along with some better interconnects*....
    +100 Tonyb! As the the forum's unofficial wire gauge fanatic: BIGGER, better wire will help. Your new "toy" has the RTi 12's five drivers per channel to control. Add to that contending w/a rather complex XO network. Who knows for sure if the mids have HP filtering or not. Oi! Don't get me started!

    Mo' Bigga will help bass output & definition. Mo' Betta will help everything else...at least up to a point*.

    I remember being blown away by the Sheffield release "Discovered." All I heard was music! W/my eyes shut I could place the instruments including the angle of the upright bass!

    Direct recording playedback on Phillips CD player, Rotel 1068, & Belles through my (well broken-in) 'A7s. No tinkering w/EQ, calibration, etc, just attention to placement. Yeah it was a tad on the bright side but SO engaging & otherwise transparent, I didn't care! Oops! Sorry for the derail. Didn't mean to hyjack your thread.

    Give careful consideration to every piece in your PB chain especially your "front end" and what you feed it. The best amp in the world will only tell you how good (or bad) everything before it is.

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
  • gce
    gce Posts: 2,158
    edited November 2012
    Good to hear snake...ENJOY!!!
    Anaheim Hills CA,
    HT 5.1: Anthem MRX 720 / BDP-Denon DBT1713UD / Polkaudio LSiM703 / W4S mAmp's / Polkaudio LSiM706c / Polkaudio LSiM702F/X's / SVS PC12-NSD / Panasonic TC P55VT30

    2 Channel: Rogue RP-5 / WireWorld Electra power cord / Marantz TT-15S1/ Ortofon - Quintet Black MC / Marantz NA8005 DAC / W4S mAmp's / Synology DS 216+ll-4TB / Polkaudio LSiM703
  • snake1
    snake1 Posts: 567
    edited November 2012
    I haven't forgotten about the write-up! Still getting in some listening and since I have very small children I have to wait to watch a movie at 'desired levels'. I'm REALLY liking it though!!!
    AVR - Onkyo NR809
    500gb HD for MP3 and FLAC files
    Amp - Parasound 2250 - FOR SALE BTW!! PM me if interested!
    Mains - Polk RTi12 towers
    Center - CSi5
    Surround - FXiA6's
    Sub - psw505
    Movies and games - PS3
    TV - Toshiba 52" HD

    Every vehicle has one good nuetral drop in it
  • dudeinaroom
    dudeinaroom Posts: 3,609
    edited November 2012
    What gauge walmart wire are you using? I'm using the 14 gauge stuff, it may not be the best, but it does do a good job for what you pay for it. I'm running a Parasound HCA 1000a in my rig and it just spews detail. IMO if you are going to upgrade interconnects skip the Signal Cables and go for the Kimber Kable PBJs. You will hear an improvement in detail as well as sound stage over those monocables.
  • snake1
    snake1 Posts: 567
    edited November 2012
    What gauge walmart wire are you using? I'm using the 14 gauge stuff, it may not be the best, but it does do a good job for what you pay for it. I'm running a Parasound HCA 1000a in my rig and it just spews detail. IMO if you are going to upgrade interconnects skip the Signal Cables and go for the Kimber Kable PBJs. You will hear an improvement in detail as well as sound stage over those monocables.

    Yes I do have the 14ga wires for wally world. I also believe it does fine for the value. That being said, I have never heard 'good' cables so I have nothing really to compare to. I do hear a considerable amount of detail now that the 2250 is set and running well! I'll check out the cables as soon as the play $$ fund is back in the black :eek:
    Thanks for the suggestions!
    AVR - Onkyo NR809
    500gb HD for MP3 and FLAC files
    Amp - Parasound 2250 - FOR SALE BTW!! PM me if interested!
    Mains - Polk RTi12 towers
    Center - CSi5
    Surround - FXiA6's
    Sub - psw505
    Movies and games - PS3
    TV - Toshiba 52" HD

    Every vehicle has one good nuetral drop in it
  • snake1
    snake1 Posts: 567
    edited December 2012
    AVR - Onkyo NR809
    500gb HD for MP3 and FLAC files
    Amp - Parasound 2250 - FOR SALE BTW!! PM me if interested!
    Mains - Polk RTi12 towers
    Center - CSi5
    Surround - FXiA6's
    Sub - psw505
    Movies and games - PS3
    TV - Toshiba 52" HD

    Every vehicle has one good nuetral drop in it
  • Oldfatdogs
    Oldfatdogs Posts: 1,874
    edited December 2012
    Nice write up,I'm glad things worked out for you..
    Dan