Bracket Mounted Off-Center

AreBEe

I was wondering if I could safely mount speaker brackets off-center on the back of the speaker. This would allow me to swivel them into the position I really want, and they also will not fit over the binding plate in the center. I have attached a picture with a mock-up to show the desired bracket positioning. The brackets are designed to hold up to 20 lbs and the RTi28s are less than 14 lbs. Would the weight be a problem because of where the bracket would be located?


Thanks,

AreBee

Frank Z

Having all the weight on one side may not be a very good idea, I wouldn't do it.

dorokusai

I also wouldn't do that.

I used a B-Tech 77 bracket for my RTi38's and I can swivel these things all over the place. It is a clamp style mounting bracket, due to their weight.

burdette

I would suggest mounting a piece of wood on the bracket, then mounting the speaker on the piece of wood (using the built-in hanger on the back of the enclosure). You could either make the piece of wood small enough that it doesn't cover the cup, or cut a hole in the wood so that the wire can go through it.

I personally don't think it would be troublesome to mount it off-center as you show. But assuming the ones here who DO think it a problem are correct, I think you can still use the brackets and get what you want.

AreBEe

I'm sending the BT1s back and I'm getting the BT77s.

Thanks for all the advice.

AreBee

scottvamp

I have made brackets for all my RT Polk surrounds at one time and used the center mount and they were able to move up/down and side to side.
I draw the designs and my dad is a welder/fabricater.

AreBEe

did anyone mount their RTi28s or 38s without hitting a stud? In my ideal mounting positions for the 28, I'm not going to hit a stud. I've mounted little 5 lb speakers using brackets and the spring loaded toggle bolts, but the 28s are almost three times that weight. Can the sheetrock support that?

AreBee

TheMaster

Doro, do you have the web link where you got the brackets for your rti38? thanks

burdette

Can the sheetrock support that?


If you don't mind the look, I've solved this sort of problem by running a piece of wood (like 1/2" plywood) on the wall across two studs. The wood needs to be something like 18" across, however 'tall' you want it. Screw it directly into the studs on each side, then mount whatever you want on the wood, anywhere along its length.

Whether the sheetrock can take it would depend on a couple of things, in my opinion... how close together the mounting holes are, how far away from the wall the speaker hangs, etc.

TheMaster

You can us a Dry-Wall anchor to hold your rti38's. You can buy these at you local hardware store. It has this locking mechanism that grabs on to the dry wall and hold your 38's.

glenn

Airplay355

i have plaster walls in my house. my fxi30s arent hung on studs but like 'the master' said you can use dry wall anchors, thats what i did. they work fine, the screws stay where they are supposed to and nothing moves at all.

just make sure that where you are putting in the anchors is where you want the speakers, they can be a **** to get out can put a pretty big hole in the wall. so just be careful about where you put them, make sure its what you want.

good luck

dorokusai

Master - Here ya go diddily o

http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-OScmAc0SBdU/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=9&g=15830&I=121BT77B&o=m&a=0&cc=01&avf=N

TheMaster

Thank you sir!

AreBEe

Well I got my B-Tech 77s last night and although they are exactly what I need, I was a little disappointed that they don't allow for the speaker wire to be pulled out of them. I guess they are counting on everyone having wall plates. I ended up drilling a 5/8"hole in the top of the post and threading the speaker wire through. It will now be right behind the speaker. They look great. Very clean.

AreBEe

Well, I installed my RTi28s on the B-Tech 77s last night and they aren't going anywhere. Four spring-clip toggle bolts in the sheetrock and they are rock solid. No studs necessary. Just have to play around with pointing the speakers to find the optimal soundstage.

Thanks for everyone's help.

AreBee

dorokusai

Here is a re-post of something I did on my BT-77 mounts. It helped me with a bass and resonance issue I was experiencing.

Hello,

I recently installed a pair of B Tech, BT-77 wall mounts on my RTi38's. Here they are:

Crutchfield

Bracket

Mounted

My first listening position was on top of the entertainment center, L & R obviously. The speakers sounded real good, as expected, but since the entertainment center is from IKEA, it vibrated enough that my bat like ears heard it. Overall performance of the speaker was average. Midrange was a little muddy, bass was boomy.

I installed these brackets and my result was clearer midrange and above average treble, not bright. The treble I expected to not be amazing anyhow, its not an LSi, but it stayed just right for me. Problem was that even though it improved my stage and imaging from listening position, was that I lost alot of bass presence, ALOT. What was present sounded "hollow". My theory was that I was getting too much resonance from the mounting surface, and it was "eating" my sound.



Mounting dimensions:
12" from side wall
6" from rear wall
70" from floor to bottom of speaker
8" from ceiling
Speakers are approx. 7' apart
8 degree downtilt
2-3 degree inside angle

The speaker position is quite nice and causes my front stage to achieve an "arc" in a way. The arc being, that instead of a flat stage, my front speakers are a little more forward of my center channel. The space between the speakers isn't too large, and it fills perfectly from the listening position

The dimensions are not very changeable. Factors in mounting included stud placement and entertainment center.

Anways, back to the bass issue. I recalled reading about using Vibrapods or a similar damping materiel, to help with resonance and/or sound problems. I had a limited amount of options available to me since they were wall mounts. I had some previous experience with Dynamat, so it seemed only logical that the same application for car stereo speakers, would be a viable option here.

I purchased a 2-pc. pack of 10" x 10" Dynamat Extreme for $20.00 at BB. They have two lines, the original Dynamat is a little thicker(1.70), the extreme is thinner(1.44) and lined with aluminum. BB only had the Extreme version, FYI. I won't get into the specifics aside from I wanted a thinner format, tho' I don't prefer the aluminum "skin". I didn't want to chance adding a somewhat permanent item to my mount and it be too thick and mess the whole project up. Things went well tho' and the thicker format would have been fine. For specifics on Dynamat, please check out the website.

I broke the mount down into the four main pieces: Back plate(Wall plate), the speaker base and two adjustable side arms. I cut the pieces to fit all the respective parts. I had some extra small pieces, so I stuck them to the front of the back plate, in addition to covering the entire rear portion. Re-Assembled kit and mounted to wall again.

Dynamat Applied

Bracket Mounted

Completed Mount Installed

Listening experience:

The treble stayed about the same, no worse for sure. Midrange warmed up very nicely, some tested artists were Days of the New, Michelle Branch and Alice in Chains - Unplugged. All are strong for midrange and vocal listening, IMO. I found the music to overall have a nice strong warm feeling. Travis Meeks(DOTN) voice was solid, the acoustic guitars were precise. Michelle Branch also sounded clear and as cute as ever. The acoustic guitar work from Jerry Cantrell and his asscociate, was tight and dead on "live" sounding. It helps that it is a nice recording, but the music improved to me.

Houston, we have BASS! Well here's the thing, yes I did get back some of my bass presence, no more hollow sound. Upper bass levels were punchy, but I believe that I still lose whatever sub-sonic/ lower bass levels were even available in the first place. This is caused by room factors and the less than ideal construction of my mounting wall.

But am I pleased with the results? Of course. It was a $20.00 investment that improved my sound enough that it was noticeable. I achieved the effect that I wanted, improved bass, from a no bass starting point. Mission complete.

Sorry that this is so long but I felt it was informative enough that someone may find it useful. Forgive the lighting in a couple of the pictures, I had to use no flash due to that damn aluminum.

AreBEe

Sounds interesting but I couldn't get your photos to load up. (Page not found)

dorokusai

The links have been fixed, sorry.