What to do with my SDA-1Cs?

1996BlackBauer
1996BlackBauer Posts: 17
edited October 2012 in Speakers
I recently aquired a pair of SDA-1Cs from my local Salvation Army for $30 :cheesygrin: I was so excited, to finally find a pair that I can afford. I have a few questions and concerns. I hear Things about out of phase, using an amplifier with a common ground, and other things. So what do I actually need for these speakers to perform well?
Post edited by 1996BlackBauer on

Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,748
    edited September 2012
    So what do I actually need for these speakers to perform well?

    How much do you have in your checkbook?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,461
    edited September 2012
    What to do with my SDA-1Cs?

    Sell them to me for 60 bucks and double your money!:mrgreen:
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited September 2012
    Make sure you have the the interconnect,, caps resistors,,rdo replacements,binding posts,dynamat drivers.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • 1996BlackBauer
    1996BlackBauer Posts: 17
    edited September 2012
    Well maybe I left my question a little broad. What I really want to know is what do I need to hook them up, and play? Do I actually need a common grounded amp? If I do what would happen if I did not use one? I am not so much for mods. A lot of people told me to mod my Monitor 10's, but I love the sound of them the way they are. Is running them without the interconnect bad for the speakers? there seems to be a lot of cautions, but some seem odd and not real. I just would like the truth, so I don't mess up my speakers, or any of my amps.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,332
    edited September 2012
    Can you post pics of the speakers without the grills and the outlet on the back for the interconnect cable?
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

    Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
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    Cary DMS 800PV Network
    OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
    VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
    Jolida JD9 Fully Modified

    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
  • 1996BlackBauer
    1996BlackBauer Posts: 17
    edited September 2012
    Absolutely, but it will not be until tomorrow when I have a break in school. didn't mean to confuse anybody.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,748
    edited September 2012
    I just would like the truth

    You can't handle the truth!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • TNHNDYMAN
    TNHNDYMAN Posts: 2,145
    edited October 2012
    common ground amp is very important- please let us know what you are wanting to use AVR, amp, integrated ect... most AVR's are common ground and alot of amps as well but it's best to find out for sure before doing any damage.
    2-ch System: Parasound P/LD 2000 pre, Parasound HCA-1000 amp, Parasound T/DQ Tuner, Phase Technology PC-100 Tower speakers, Technics SL-1600 Turntable, Denon 2910 SACD/CD player, Peachtree DAC iT and X1asynchorus USB converter, HSU VTF-3 subwoofer.

  • 1996BlackBauer
    1996BlackBauer Posts: 17
    edited October 2012
    Well I finally got some pictures for everybody.

    Here are the speakers when I got them, before testing, the first was right as I got them, and the second was after removing the damaged speakers.

    x29boj.jpg

    im1js2.jpg

    The decals for the left and right channels.

    2gy65ae.jpg

    znr2bd.jpg

    and the interconnect plugs, and speaker terminals.

    jhefcw.jpg

    The first of 2 woofers that are not working.

    2mmed7a.jpg

    The second one

    264qt01.jpg

    Both together

    149uv4h.jpg

    The tweeter, this was a reference photo for hooking it back up, to show which color wire to put where.

    2qsv2ua.jpg

    and I believe there is something missing.

    2wqrabn.jpg

    The front of the tweeter.

    k9f84.jpg


    So what does everybody think?
    I am wondering if there is refoam kits available for the woofers, or if the magnets have shifted. Also it seems that I have the rare interconnect cables, so what can I do about that?
  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
    edited October 2012
    Welcome to Club Polk!

    Do you or do you not have the SDA interconnect that hooks the two speakers to each other?

    Have you tried one set of drivers in one speaker and swapped them out with the other to see which ones are fully functional? If so, keep those and try to find substitutes for the others.

    Magnets often shift on some of the mid-woofers making them lock up and non-functional.

    Tweeter replacements are available from Polk direct (RD-0194). They are drop in, so if your tweets are shot, no problem there.

    There is a huge resource on crossover renewal on this site. But first, just see if you can get ONE speaker to work with all its drivers. If you can do that. Then all you might need to do is find new drivers to replace what is non-functional. Although almost "everyone" here likes to tear into their SDAs. Redo the crossovers, soundproof better, add damping material to mid-bass drivers, and P-radiators, as well as improve the integrity of the driver cabinet seals, etc.

    Polk drivers have rubber surrounds, unless "torn" by something or someone, there should be no need for a refoam?

    Just get them "functional" first and you can address all that (I'm such a hot-**** DIY guy) later! They'll should sound passable even in stock form or else Matt Polk was a moron. Which he most definitely was not.

    Good Luck!

    cnh
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
  • naturallight
    naturallight Posts: 689
    edited October 2012
    what you have is SDA 1C studio models. The interconnect cable is pin/blade type. Which you may be able to get from Polk..I'm not sure, but is NOT rare. from your pic it seems that another driver in not that good looking. It is probably an MW 6511.

    But have you tested any of this stuff out??? Do you know what's broke or what is not??

    I have the same speakers, but kind of hard to help, if i don't know what for sure is broke or not...or what you have tested.
    The tweeters should all be just pulled and replaced with RDO stuff..but if you don't know what really works..not worth it at this point.
  • Saftgeek
    Saftgeek Posts: 114
    edited October 2012
    Hang in there Mr 1996! A thousand dollars or so and you'll have a killer pair of speakers. I am resurrecting the exact same set. I only had one dead soldier in mine. Be very, very careful moving them around or you'll risk shifting other drivers. You should invest $5 in some JB Weld and get the good speakers locked in place. Take some time and read a lot to see how you need to plan your repairs. If your speakers are for sure not blown, don't throw them away. They can be fixed if you have the patience, tools, and stubbornness to stick with it.

    Good luck and great find!

    -Saftgeek
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited October 2012
    Congrats and outstanding price even with bad woofers and tweets.
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
  • naturallight
    naturallight Posts: 689
    edited October 2012
    Well a thousand bucks, may be a tad over the top..LOL But have you tried these speakers at all with any amp???do you know what works and what dose not??
  • halo71
    halo71 Posts: 4,606
    edited October 2012
    Sell them to me for 60 bucks and double your money!:mrgreen:


    THIS is an great idea! You live in Georgia by chance?
    --Gary--
    Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out.
  • PolkieMan
    PolkieMan Posts: 2,446
    edited October 2012
    I assume you don't have a lot to spend with school and such.
    IC Cable, only the pin is active use 2 Rca plugs break off the outer rings and use a piece of 14 gage speaker wire.
    Used 6510 are easy to come by not like 6511.
    I would get those and a used tweeter, maybe here or ebay then sit back and develop and save for your next upgrade plan.
    I am using a 100wpc onkyo receiver in 2 channel mode, I don't play them super loud.
    POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
    POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
    PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
    POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
    ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1
  • 1996BlackBauer
    1996BlackBauer Posts: 17
    edited October 2012
    cnh wrote: »
    Welcome to Club Polk!

    Do you or do you not have the SDA interconnect that hooks the two speakers to each other?

    Have you tried one set of drivers in one speaker and swapped them out with the other to see which ones are fully functional? If so, keep those and try to find substitutes for the others.

    Magnets often shift on some of the mid-woofers making them lock up and non-functional.

    Tweeter replacements are available from Polk direct (RD-0194). They are drop in, so if your tweets are shot, no problem there.

    There is a huge resource on crossover renewal on this site. But first, just see if you can get ONE speaker to work with all its drivers. If you can do that. Then all you might need to do is find new drivers to replace what is non-functional. Although almost "everyone" here likes to tear into their SDAs. Redo the crossovers, soundproof better, add damping material to mid-bass drivers, and P-radiators, as well as improve the integrity of the driver cabinet seals, etc.

    Polk drivers have rubber surrounds, unless "torn" by something or someone, there should be no need for a refoam?

    Just get them "functional" first and you can address all that (I'm such a hot-**** DIY guy) later! They'll should sound passable even in stock form or else Matt Polk was a moron. Which he most definitely was not.

    Good Luck!

    cnh

    I do not have the interconnects, but I have seen mods to make your own, and that seems very doable. I have tested one speaker so far. the one with the tweeter that needs to be replaced, all drivers with the exception of the tweeter seemed to work well, so that good news, the other I did not hook up for fear of damage to something with 2 seized woofers, so I have yet to plug it in yet. I asked about "refoams" , but what I meant to say is recone kits, that is if the voice coil has been burnt up. that way I can keep the same driver, and just replace all the "soft Parts". as for mods, those won't be for a while, I just want them to play first, then mods later.
    what you have is SDA 1C studio models. The interconnect cable is pin/blade type. Which you may be able to get from Polk..I'm not sure, but is NOT rare. from your pic it seems that another driver in not that good looking. It is probably an MW 6511.

    But have you tested any of this stuff out??? Do you know what's broke or what is not??

    I have the same speakers, but kind of hard to help, if i don't know what for sure is broke or not...or what you have tested.
    The tweeters should all be just pulled and replaced with RDO stuff..but if you don't know what really works..not worth it at this point.

    I am going to continue testing soon. That way I know exactly what I have to deal with.
    Saftgeek wrote: »
    Hang in there Mr 1996! A thousand dollars or so and you'll have a killer pair of speakers. I am resurrecting the exact same set. I only had one dead soldier in mine. Be very, very careful moving them around or you'll risk shifting other drivers. You should invest $5 in some JB Weld and get the good speakers locked in place. Take some time and read a lot to see how you need to plan your repairs. If your speakers are for sure not blown, don't throw them away. They can be fixed if you have the patience, tools, and stubbornness to stick with it.

    Good luck and great find!

    -Saftgeek

    :eek: $1000 is worth more then half my truck!!! I guess I won't get these going as soon as I want, but that's OK, I just want to hear them. I am already stocked with JB Weld, that and duct tape are my main "repairs" on most things.
    thsmith wrote: »
    Congrats and outstanding price even with bad woofers and tweets.

    thank you. looks like it will only take time and money now, I have some time, and no money, so we'll see how it goes.
    Well a thousand bucks, may be a tad over the top..LOL But have you tried these speakers at all with any amp???do you know what works and what dose not??

    one works , with the exception of the tweeter, I have yet to try the other.
    PolkieMan wrote: »
    I assume you don't have a lot to spend with school and such.
    IC Cable, only the pin is active use 2 Rca plugs break off the outer rings and use a piece of 14 gage speaker wire.
    Used 6510 are easy to come by not like 6511.
    I would get those and a used tweeter, maybe here or ebay then sit back and develop and save for your next upgrade plan.
    I am using a 100wpc onkyo receiver in 2 channel mode, I don't play them super loud.

    Good to hear. I was hoping I could find a budget way to make these things shine. I just don't understand what is suppose to happen with a non common ground amp. anybody know?

    I now know what the interconnect cable is for, so I will for sure make one, and or buy one. We'll see what my finances allow.

    thanks everybody, this is a great forum. this to me is like how AudioKarma was when I first got into speaker and stereos period.
  • Saftgeek
    Saftgeek Posts: 114
    edited October 2012
    Mr. 1996 - you can use a battery to check your drivers. Take a 9 volt battery with wires attached to the terminals. You can have somebody touch the neg/pos terminals on the back of the speakers... The speakers should move in/out accordingly. You will also hear the tweeters crackle. Whatever you do, don't leave the battery hooked up. Just touch the leads. It may startle you at first, but it won't hurt the speakers. If you do some searching on here you can find the resistance chart and see what impedence the voice coils should be. If the driver is frozen w/ a good voice coil, the resistance should be fine. Then all you have to do is re-align the magnet.

    I know it won't cost you 1k, but it sure seems like it. Your purchase price will most definitely help you out. Whatever you do, don't get discouraged and don't let someone talk you into parting these out. I promise you the 1cs will be awesome when you get them done. Like I said, keep reading and listen to what the old-timers on here recommend. They are a great bunch with more knowlege than you can shake a stick at.

    Good luck!

    -Saftgeek
  • PolkieMan
    PolkieMan Posts: 2,446
    edited October 2012
    If you like, I would use a 1.5v AA .
    The Mw-65XX I test direct turned down **real low***same with tweeters but i mean **REAL** low!
    But it's safer to use a meter.
    If you can get to a Harbor Freight they have a cheap like $5 multimeter you can check the ohm, if it's nothing it's history.
    The interconnect wire is the main reason for the SDA speakers. They will not work properly without it. Just to test you don't need to buy anything when I bought mine I just used a 6' piece of wire 1/2" bare each end and balled up a bit.
    POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
    POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
    PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
    POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
    ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1
  • SDA1C
    SDA1C Posts: 2,072
    edited October 2012
    If you do NOT use the interconnect cable a NON common ground amp will not do any damage. It is when you connect the SDA cable that things get dicey in the crossovers and require the ground to be common.

    AGAIN! ONLY if you do NOT use SDA cable you can use a non common amp. They will not sound exactly right but honestly if you have not heard SDA you won't know what you are missing anyway no sweat off 'em there right.
    Too much **** to list....
  • 1996BlackBauer
    1996BlackBauer Posts: 17
    edited October 2012
    Saftgeek wrote: »
    Mr. 1996 - you can use a battery to check your drivers. Take a 9 volt battery with wires attached to the terminals. You can have somebody touch the neg/pos terminals on the back of the speakers... The speakers should move in/out accordingly. You will also hear the tweeters crackle. Whatever you do, don't leave the battery hooked up. Just touch the leads. It may startle you at first, but it won't hurt the speakers. If you do some searching on here you can find the resistance chart and see what impedence the voice coils should be. If the driver is frozen w/ a good voice coil, the resistance should be fine. Then all you have to do is re-align the magnet.

    I know it won't cost you 1k, but it sure seems like it. Your purchase price will most definitely help you out. Whatever you do, don't get discouraged and don't let someone talk you into parting these out. I promise you the 1cs will be awesome when you get them done. Like I said, keep reading and listen to what the old-timers on here recommend. They are a great bunch with more knowlege than you can shake a stick at.

    Good luck!

    -Saftgeek

    This weekend, most likely Sunday I will be testing everything. that is when I get out early from work. I already planned on testing the all the speakers with a DMM. I have a BluePoint one that I had to get for my Automotive classes, that should be up for the job. I am glad to hear there is a bunch of people to help me out, and that I won't have to spend my life saving on these speakers. One day I will have them playing perfectly, but for now like I mentioned above I just to to hear them both play, then go on to buying a proper amp, and getting the SDA sound.
    PolkieMan wrote: »
    If you like, I would use a 1.5v AA .
    The Mw-65XX I test direct turned down **real low***same with tweeters but i mean **REAL** low!
    But it's safer to use a meter.
    If you can get to a Harbor Freight they have a cheap like $5 multimeter you can check the ohm, if it's nothing it's history.
    The interconnect wire is the main reason for the SDA speakers. They will not work properly without it. Just to test you don't need to buy anything when I bought mine I just used a 6' piece of wire 1/2" bare each end and balled up a bit.

    I like the budget way of doing that, I hear that the blade part is just so that the plug stays in better, but it also seems that some automotive pin connectors seem to be that size, so I will do some research, but I also have somebody contacting me with one for sale, we will see how much that will run me before I make my own. I also already have a BluePoint Meter, so that should be good for testing, I love the thing and have had it for a while.
    SDA1C wrote: »
    If you do NOT use the interconnect cable a NON common ground amp will not do any damage. It is when you connect the SDA cable that things get dicey in the crossovers and require the ground to be common.

    AGAIN! ONLY if you do NOT use SDA cable you can use a non common amp. They will not sound exactly right but honestly if you have not heard SDA you won't know what you are missing anyway no sweat off 'em there right.

    YAY! :cheesygrin: good to hear, so that means that I won't have to buy another amp for quite a while. those darn things get pricey. I also have not ever heard the SDA sound yet, so it will not affect me. But I cannot wait until I do.
  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited October 2012
    I have an original pin/blade SDA cable I can sell you if you're interested. Not trying to be solicitous on your thread, but if I post it in the for-sale forum you won't be able to see it because you don't have 100 post counts. I believe the going rate is $50, if I'm wrong on that someone please correct me.
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
  • 1996BlackBauer
    1996BlackBauer Posts: 17
    edited October 2012
    nspindel wrote: »
    I have an original pin/blade SDA cable I can sell you if you're interested. Not trying to be solicitous on your thread, but if I post it in the for-sale forum you won't be able to see it because you don't have 100 post counts. I believe the going rate is $50, if I'm wrong on that someone please correct me.

    I may be interested, but I may be doing a mod with the RCA cable, so I will have to decide on what I am doing first.