Speaker grill pegs

corrinthians
corrinthians Posts: 35
edited May 2013 in Speakers
Hi guys,
My son (2) broke a couple of the speaker grill pegs off when he was messing with my Monitor 70s. He must have been wiggling the grill so the peggs broke and are stuck in the peg hole. I cannot grip it with anything to pull them out. Does anyone have any suggestions for getting them out without damaging the speakers?
Receiver: Pioneer VSX-1121K
Front: Polk Monitor 70 II (cherry)
Center: Polk CS2 II (cherry)
Surround: Satellites from my previous HTIB
Subwoofer: Outlaw LFM-1 EX
Post edited by corrinthians on
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited September 2012
    Hello,
    One approach is to use a small thin nail called a "brad" which are used to put picture frames together. Tap the nail into the broken treelock (what those tabs are called) then use a pair of pliers to pull it out.
    Ken
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  • gudnoyez
    gudnoyez Posts: 8,124
    edited September 2012
    After you get them out you can get the replacements from parts express, unless Polk still carries them.
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  • teamjhertz
    teamjhertz Posts: 361
    edited September 2012
    Are you dealing with a metal or plastic peg? I had a couple of the pegs break off from a FXi3. The ones in the speaker were made of some plastic material while the ones I received from Polk as replacements were metal. My approach was to start with a small drill bit and work my way up to one size smaller than the actual hole. The key was to use a very low speed with the bit and remove the material little by little. I was able to remove enough of the old peg to replace it with the metal one. The hole was slightly over size so I just used some wood glue to make sure it stayed in.

    good luck
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  • KiTsuNe
    KiTsuNe Posts: 74
    edited September 2012
    I used a 1/16th drill with a pin vise and drilled into the peg and pulled it out. Works very well.
    HT: M5510-Prox2/PN51E550/NR708/M282(3)/RTi A7/CSi A6/FXi A6/DSWPro660x2/PS3/HTPC
    Office: Belkin PF60/PN43E450/Marantz 1501/PSB 400/Image C4/WD Live TV
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  • philr168
    philr168 Posts: 91
    edited September 2012
    A small drill and a drywall screw
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  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,414
    edited September 2012
    If worse comes to worse u can use a screwdriver and knock them inside the cabs, pull a driver and retrieve them. They are designed to resist comming out from the front. As stated u can buy replacements fron parts express pretty cheep. In my rta12's i had to push them through to the inside to get them out. And retreve them through a speaker port.
    Main Rig:
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    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
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  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,414
    edited September 2012
    Btw ck first that the holes go through the cab. I dont know if they do in all models. They did un my rta's
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
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  • corrinthians
    corrinthians Posts: 35
    edited October 2012
    Thanks for the suggestions. I'll see what I can do.
    Receiver: Pioneer VSX-1121K
    Front: Polk Monitor 70 II (cherry)
    Center: Polk CS2 II (cherry)
    Surround: Satellites from my previous HTIB
    Subwoofer: Outlaw LFM-1 EX
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  • leftwinger57
    leftwinger57 Posts: 2,917
    edited October 2012
    I had the same problem w/ my JBL 2060s and like said before I drilled the peg w/ a bit smaller in diameter, inserted a screw and
    backed out the peg.
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  • Gatecrasher
    Gatecrasher Posts: 1,550
    edited October 2012
    The easiest way to remove a snapped-off plastic grille peg from the speaker is to get a wood screw smaller than the diameter of the peg and heat the tip of the screw with a lighter. Then push the screw into the center of the peg and let it cool.

    After it cools, you can grab the end of the screw with a pair of pliers and easily pull the peg right out.

    It don't get any easier than that.
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  • Gatecrasher
    Gatecrasher Posts: 1,550
    edited October 2012
    Just to add, after you remove the snapped off peg with a screw as I described above, you can then remove the screw from the peg to repair the grille.

    I take the peg and drill a hole through the back side about half way through. Then I take the screw and cut it off leaving just the threaded section. I screw half of it into the peg and then screw the peg back into the grille while liberally applying JB Weld to it. When done you have a threaded rod reinforced peg JB Welded to the grille that will never break again and works just as good as new. I have a CS1000p and a RT3000p both repaired this way.
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  • polk500
    polk500 Posts: 1,171
    edited October 2012
    Gatecrasher wrote: »
    Just to add, after you remove the snapped off peg with a screw as I described above, you can then remove the screw from the peg to repair the grille.

    I take the peg and drill a hole through the back side about half way through. Then I take the screw and cut it off leaving just the threaded section. I screw half of it into the peg and then screw the peg back into the grille while liberally applying JB Weld to it. When done you have a threaded rod reinforced peg JB Welded to the grille that will never break again and works just as good as new. I have a CS1000p and a RT3000p both repaired this way.

    Now that's a great way to fix the pegs, I have two broken on my CS10. Will fix this evening.

    Cheers Roger
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  • 1ShotBill
    1ShotBill Posts: 30
    edited May 2013
    I just used the heated screw method you suggested. Worked like a charm on several snapped pegs or treelocks from a couple of Monitor 7C speakers I picked up at a thrift shop.

    treelock_screw.jpg


    Also, after ordering a few replacement parts (SL2000 tweeter and mid driver replacements) through Polk, I asked about replacement treelocks. They're sending me a bunch free of charge. Best customer service ever!

    Be advised though: Apparently Polk used two different sizes of treelocks back in the 1980s according the a Polk Audio technical support rep. Sure enough, when I looked at my speakers I noticed that the later Monitor 7 speakers with beveled front edges have much smaller pegs than the Monitor 7 with straight 90 degree edges.
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  • ShelterFan
    ShelterFan Posts: 4
    Those appear to be the pegs I've been looking for. Thanks for the great photo!
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,560
    ShelterFan wrote: »
    Those appear to be the pegs I've been looking for. Thanks for the great photo!

    Parts express carries them
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  • ShelterFan
    ShelterFan Posts: 4
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    ShelterFan wrote: »
    Those appear to be the pegs I've been looking for. Thanks for the great photo!

    Parts express carries them

    Thank you! Heading there now.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    Be aware that the ones at PE are not exactly the same size, but close enough.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • ShelterFan
    ShelterFan Posts: 4
    Thanks for the comments. To (hopefully) add some clarity, my Monitor 7s have a one piece peg that mounts into the cabinet with a ball that fits into the grill. There's a hole in the grill itself into which the ball of the peg (mounted in the speaker cabinet) fits, if you understand what I'm trying to say. Several of the pegs I've seen appear to be in two parts, a base which is mounted into the cabinet and a ball that is mounted into the grill. Is that more common than a one piece peg that I have? I haven't found a ball yet that will fit snugly enough into the hole in the grill to keep the grill attached to the speaker.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    edited May 2017
    That's correct and you won't find one either. However, you can mount the socket in the grill frame. If it's too big, drill out the hole. If it's too small, glued it in.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,560
    edited May 2017
    I bought that at parts express for my sda1a. I just didn't use the cup part in the grill frame. In my case the hole worked fine in the grill for the ball to go into.
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  • ShelterFan
    ShelterFan Posts: 4
    You folks have been very helpful! I appreciate the assistance and advice!!
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  • jwoods2112
    jwoods2112 Posts: 39
    Torch and a screw, Slowly rotate it out of the cabinet, simply brilliant
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