? about passive preamps

leftwinger57
leftwinger57 Posts: 2,917
edited September 2012 in Electronics
Firstly I did do a search on this but found no best answer as to if one is better than the other.My Onkyo P-301 pre
dropped a chnl. and it's deffinately not a cable issuse.Now I use the pre outs of my Yamaha RX-v665 but since I do
have an Adcom gfa 555 I was thinking of going w/ the same brand pre. Cruising e-bay I did notice a few of their
their models and was wondering what exactly is the difference going to be in the simplest terms.Right now there's no
problem both set/ups are in the same stack. If I were to seperate the units then it would be problematic keeping the Yamaha as the pre.
2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E

H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-

Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
Post edited by leftwinger57 on

Comments

  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited September 2012
    I'm not really sure what you're asking? Are you looking for a passive linestage?
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • leftwinger57
    leftwinger57 Posts: 2,917
    edited September 2012
    I don't know.What's the difference between the active and passive Adcom models and is there an appreciable difference?
    2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E

    H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-

    Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited September 2012
    Passive means there is no preamplification. Since most sources these days put out 2v, they can drive most power amplifiers to full output without the need of preamplification. Some believe that the signal is purer by not going thru the extra stages of an active preamplifier.

    Passive linestages (as opposed to "preamps" linestage is more correct since no preamplification is happening) are basically just a volume control, and possibly multiple inputs, depending on brand/model. Some very simple passives don't even require power.

    Active preamps, preamplify the signal first--then send it to the amplifier to ensure enough input level to fully drive the power amp.

    As to which is better? Like anything, which is better Chevy or Dodge? I personally love my passive linestage, but they aren't for everyone.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,166
    edited September 2012
    Not sure it's "more correct" as there are many more factors involved. Passive has it's drawbacks like anything else. It comes down to design and components, etc as well, but one will only know for sure if it works in their system by trying it.

    I can run either and for some material it works well and for others it doesn't.

    Just my .02c

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,806
    edited September 2012
    with a passive, one loses the ability to correct for impedance mismatches (buffer) between the source and destination. This may have zero sonic consequence, or it could be detrimental. If nothing else, the length of interconnecting cables between the passive device and its input sources and output to the amp should all be as short as possible to minimize "insertion loss".

    mrhrack061111.jpg

    NB I am currently using a passive (autoformer volume control with a source selector switch) - works well for me but it did require me to move to a higher gain phono preamp. That wasn't a bad thing, as my new phono preamp is considerably better sounding than my old one :-)
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited September 2012
    I've really enjoyed the Luminous Audio Axiom and Stereo Knight Silverstone passive linestages. The first is about 1/10 the price of the second, but both are great for their price points. Usually you loose remote control and other electronic functions, but good passives still include them if that is a must. The Stereo Knight units use transformers instead of resistors for volume attenuation, so they can have a different effect on impedance matches. Also, the Luminous Audio Axiom is a special order unit that Tim matchs to the specs of your system to minimize effects of impedance mismatches and low gain.
  • audiocr381ve
    audiocr381ve Posts: 2,588
    edited September 2012
    I'm using a Pass DCB1 (direct coupled) unity gain buffer and it is every bit as good as my Adcom GFP-750's passive section was, if not better.

    Not an expensive build if you're into DIY.
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited September 2012
    Placette RVC $1000:

    The Remote Volume Control has the Placette Audio 125 step attenuator that uses only Vishay resistors. The input impedance is a constant 9k ohms at every volume setting. The remote control allows for easy operation while at the same time placing it close to the power amp for the shortest possible output interconnects.

    Although passive, these units do not suffer the usual loss of dynamics or bass response associated with other passive designs because of the non-inductive load offered by the Vishay S-102 resistors that are use throughout the volume control circuits. These controls will allow the sound of your sources to come through in full without the grain and brightness caused by typical volume controls including the "variable out" that is available on some source components.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited September 2012
    steveinaz wrote: »
    Passive means there is no preamplification. Since most sources these days put out 2v, they can drive most power amplifiers to full output without the need of preamplification. Some believe that the signal is purer by not going thru the extra stages of an active preamplifier.

    Passive linestages (as opposed to "preamps" linestage is more correct since no preamplification is happening) are basically just a volume control, and possibly multiple inputs, depending on brand/model. Some very simple passives don't even require power.

    Active preamps, preamplify the signal first--then send it to the amplifier to ensure enough input level to fully drive the power amp.

    As to which is better? Like anything, which is better Chevy or Dodge? I personally love my passive linestage, but they aren't for everyone.

    Passive Pres and Active Pres can all sound equally awesome in the right system put together with synergy in mind. I owned a Wyred4Sound Pre for a while which is a passive hybrid of sorts. It is amazing in my opinion. Excellent pre for any money.
  • leftwinger57
    leftwinger57 Posts: 2,917
    edited September 2012
    Thanks ,all very concise answers. I will still most likely go w/ an Adcom pwrd pre of the GTP 400/555 class.
    2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E

    H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-

    Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,967
    edited September 2012
    Just my opinion, but any of the Adcom pre's, aside from the 750, aren't going to sound better than your Onkyo 301. I'd be looking elsewhere and since budget is of concern maybe an older Parasound pre, B&K pre especially. Just my .02 LW.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,166
    edited September 2012
    Those Adcom's are OK, but not great. I'd look elsewhere or expand your budget. Probably won't sound any better than what you have. Of the two the 555 is slightly better.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!