Minimum power for RTA 12's

drumminman

Reply to this thread, at the bottom of the new post window click on manage attachments, when the window opens click on add files, from there it should be easy to work out.

This presumes that the files are on your computer, but you can add them from other sources too.

laotzu61

i hope this works. btw, i have a sister and neice that live in asheville.

drumminman

laotzu61 wrote: »

i hope this works. btw, i have a sister and neice that live in asheville.

OK, those are either B's or C's - I see the pedestal (riser) attached to the base. The pic is a little fuzzy so it's hard to make out detail, but it looks like your tweeter has a black plate surrounding the dome. If so, that's a SL2000 tweeter which makes them C's. They should have a paper label on the back that states the model #.

Asheville is a beautiful place - only about 4 hours from me.

soundfreak1

Ok does indeed look like a pair of b's or c's. Too be sure pull thr 4 drivers amd get the model #'s cant tell from the pict which tweet, ck it on the back or post clearer pict. They will be left/right concentric and this is critical to thier sound.i have had 2 pair of b's and 1 pair of c's with a lot od ear time with many diff amps
i have user lowfi jcv, dennon and yammy recievers and avr's as well as a B&k avr( the B&K best of the lot) and none of them drove those speakers to thiwr potential! I have moved up to SS highcurrant amps by adcom, B&K, Parasound and more and tjey thrive on highcurrent and lots of watts. If you want the best from these i liked the parasound the best (just.mho). The diff with more power(current) and wattage is amazing period.
Also get your read on and first consider "dynamating the drivers( this mod makes a hugh improvement in the base and mids). B'or C's they are truly a surprising speaker with tje right power.they dont need to be played LOUD to enjoy as long as you get power to them. This is the best advise i can give you based on a couple years of playing them on many diff amps.

soundfreak1

BTW when you pull the drivers too get the model #'s write down tje dates also. Post here asaybe geppy will chime in and ID them for you! But post driver #'s dates and tweet #'s and dates alos ch the pcb's for amd #'s and info.and get some clear close up picts on the tweets and xovers. With this info they should be able to ID them for you accrately. And most of all ENJOY.

laotzu61

for whatever reason, i am not able to put up more than 1 pic at a time. recall in an earlier post i mentioned being somewhat of a computer bozo. anyway, i will try 1 at a time. there is no sticker on the back, and the serial number stickers have been removed. since i picked these up used, (obviously) i'm starting to wonder. the tweeters are marked 22 10213 and 22 10214. i have 103 as the right speaker and 104 as the left. i hope the moderators don't get angry at the way i wil subsequently post pics. btw, i have a cheapo vivitar digital camera, thus the lousy pics.

laotzu61

once more---

soundfreak1

Those tweets look like peerless to me. Could be wrong but not sl2000. We need geppy i think
But still need the driver #'s!

laotzu61

do i have to take the back off the speaker to get the driver numbers? also, i have no idea what sl2000's are, or peerless tweeters for that matter. guess i'm in a pretty steep learning curve here. how do i get ahold of geppy?? thanks again for all your help, guys. i realize this isn't easy for you, either.

drumminman

I see Peerless tweeters and fuses instead of polyswitches for tweeter protection. Also I see pins instead of christmas trees to hold the top hats in place.

You have 12B's.

To get the model number of the MW's lay the speakers on their back, take the screws out of the MW and carefully remove far enough to read the adhesive label on the magnet. Don't even need to disconnect the wires.

laotzu61

thankyou, drumminman. so, at this point, if i'm understanding what has been explained to me so far, it does make a difference between which speaker is used for the left channel as oppossed to the right. and i'm thinking that having 22 10214 as the left and 22 10213 as the right as is marked on the tweeter circuit boards would be correct?

soundfreak1

Mine have always been marked with a L or a R in front of the serial # for right./ LEFT or i have seen a paper sticker on back of cabs or marked on top right of cab backs. Other than that there is an audible sound diff if inverted in the L/R axis . Places incorrectly tjey will sound like CRAP! LOL. try them eack way and you should be able to tell.

laotzu61

they must be placed correctly then, because these puppy's are just awesome!!! as i think i stated earlier, i have never heard cleaner, clearer speakers to this point, other than MAYBE a pair of epi mini-towers a buddy had years ago. at some point, i want to spend some time reading the modification and upgrade info, altho i find it hard to accept these can sound any better than they do now. i just love 'em

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. also would like to get some signal cables.

drumminman

Mine came with stickers indicating L/R affixed on top behind the crossovers.

What SF1 said - listen to them and then swap sides with the speakers. One set up will clearly sound better in terms of stereo image, size of the soundstage, etc.

soundfreak1

I understand how u feel about them it took some time before i did some mods for the same reason. But do the dynamat it really tightens up the base and improves tje mids a lot ( believe it or not) quite an audible improvement. And cheep to do. You wont be sorry. But spend some time with them and when you do it you will be supprized.trust me when i say that when you get some nice clean power on them you will be blown away cause tjey will get markedly better.

MNmike

those are RTA 12b's.

Any favorite of the RTA 12's. I have the same plus a pair of origional 12's.

laotzu61

ok. i have another question. in some of the replies earlier, you guys mentioned going to a higher output (watts) and/or higher current amplifier to make the speakers "come alive." since my kenwood 5600 is rated at 50 watts per channel into an 8 ohm load, this would translate into 100 watts into a 4 ohm load, as these are 4 ohm speakers, correct? how would this then affect current? thanks yet again.

pitdogg2

laotzu61 wrote: »

ok. i have another question. in some of the replies earlier, you guys mentioned going to a higher output (watts) and/or higher current amplifier to make the speakers "come alive." since my kenwood 5600 is rated at 50 watts per channel into an 8 ohm load, this would translate into 100 watts into a 4 ohm load, as these are 4 ohm speakers, correct? how would this then affect current? thanks yet again.

In theory yes it would double down, but I'd be very surprised to see your Kenwood double. Most on the market will only add 30-75 more watts in 4ohm load and some none at all just have a sort of limiter. Your good quality higher dollar gear do go from say 100wpc to 200wpc or 250wpc to 500wpc.

Schurkey

laotzu61 wrote: »

ok. i have another question. in some of the replies earlier, you guys mentioned going to a higher output (watts) and/or higher current amplifier to make the speakers "come alive." since my kenwood 5600 is rated at 50 watts per channel into an 8 ohm load, this would translate into 100 watts into a 4 ohm load, as these are 4 ohm speakers, correct? how would this then affect current? thanks yet again.

See post #23.

laotzu61

Schurkey wrote: »

See post #23.

gottcha; and thanks. guess i should pay more attention. this whole "current" thing has me confused, tho. current is amperage, correct? how do i figure this out?