Newbie trying to identify speakers

joyce069
joyce069 Posts: 10
edited August 2012 in Vintage Speakers
Hi, I bought these speakers today from a 93 year old man who bought them in the 60's with a Harman Kardon system.
When I opened them I saw one of the cone covers had come off on one speaker.

They way aproximately 40-45 lbs and measure 27" high and 16" wide and have a wood veneer covering. They are
in pristine condition.

My question is are these worth repairing?

Many thanks for any input, Joyce
Post edited by joyce069 on

Comments

  • joyce069
    joyce069 Posts: 10
    edited August 2012
    speaker.jpg
    Guess it would be helpful to put the image
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,808
    edited August 2012
    Well... the midrange and tweeter are very nice Philips drivers.
    They are not junk; perhaps RtR speakers or one of several other brands which was closely related.
    The alternative is that the MR and tweeter were "aftermarket" replacements. In that case, all bets are off - possibly HH Scott or Sherwood, from the days when they were still US companies. Neither originally used Philips drivers, though, AFAIK.

    If you pull out the woofer and look on the basket or cone, you may well find the EIA manufacturer's code and date stamp for the actual manufacturer of the woofer. You can find the secret, magic listing of EIA mfgr codes at www.webervst.com/codes.html :-)
  • joyce069
    joyce069 Posts: 10
    edited August 2012
    Thank you so much for replying MRH, checked the web site with the numbers that i found on the ceramic part of the back of the cone
    and had no luck with matching any numbers. These are the numbers that were there, 2422 257 31202 then D 1265/W8 335 AH. Any clues with numbers? Thank you again for your help MRH:)
  • PolkieMan
    PolkieMan Posts: 2,446
    edited August 2012
    what does the back new like?
    POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
    POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
    PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
    POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
    ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1
  • joyce069
    joyce069 Posts: 10
    edited August 2012
    Hi PolkieMan, sorry, I don't understand the question, newbie here, lol. Can you please explain, thank you
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,808
    edited August 2012
    The W8 335 AH looks like a Philips number; so maybe all Philips drivers.
    Have you listened to them yet: they should be pretty good.

    If you feel like investing a little effort into them - the speakers' crossovers could benefit from refreshing with new capacitors... if you dig around at sites like this or www.audiokarma.org you should be able to find information on crossover upgrades (or many of us could 'talk you through' the process).
  • joyce069
    joyce069 Posts: 10
    edited August 2012
    Thanks mrh:)) No I have not listened to them yet as I just got them yesterday.
    I have a newer sony receiver and don't know if the speakers are compatible.

    I talked to the gentleman who sold the receiver to me and he said if the speakers were 8 ohms i should be
    able to use them but can't find the ohms reading on the back of the woofers.

    The receiver is for surround sound and i have some vintage bose speakers already, was looking for more speakers to complete the package.

    I am concerned that the cone cover on one speaker has crumbled off and probably should have that repaired.

    What got me started in vintage speakers is that my father left me some vintage EPI speakers which unfortunately had two damaged
    woofers and one tweeters and not cost effective to repair:( But he did leave me with a new hobby:)

    Cheers, Joyce
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited August 2012
    Not sure what you mean by cone cover, but if the speakers need tp have the surrounds replaced, it's an easy process. I've not done it, but folks who have say it's not a big deal.

    If you do a google search you can find companies that sell the parts.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • joyce069
    joyce069 Posts: 10
    edited August 2012
    cone cover1.jpg
    This is what i mean, sorry, I am not very up on the jargon but eager to learn. Thank you for responding drumminman:))
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited August 2012
    Hard to tell, but it looks like from your pic that's a rubber surround. Unless they get a hole poked in them they last just about forever. The dustcap is what's damaged/missing.

    That should be even easier to replace than the surround. Just need to be careful when cutting out the remnants of the old dustcap. I believe the new one will be simply glued in place. The outfit you purchase it from should have it, glue and directions.

    You might want to connect the speakers first to be sure they work, have no other issues.

    Oh, and welcome to CP!
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • joyce069
    joyce069 Posts: 10
    edited August 2012
    Thanks dumminman, well that is a relief, makes me happy:)

    Ok, so now I am trying to hook up the speakers, chomping at the bit to install them and see if they work.

    On the back of the speaker where the wires are hooked up already there are two screws, one is marked 8 and the other is marked G. So which one is positive and which is negative? And when hooking them up is it crucial that I don't mess up? I don't want to see any smoke. The wires have been tagged for which is the left speaker/right speaker. Sorry if this is sounding novice like,,, but I am a novice, lol

    Thanks for any help, I appreciate it.
  • Polkersince85
    Polkersince85 Posts: 2,883
    edited August 2012
    The 8 (Ohm) is positive (Red) and the G is Ground (Negative) Black. Be sure the power is off on the receiver.
    >
    >
    >This message has been scanned by the NSA and found to be free of harmful intent.<
  • joyce069
    joyce069 Posts: 10
    edited August 2012
    Ty ty ty:) here i go, wish me luck!!
  • joyce069
    joyce069 Posts: 10
    edited August 2012
    YES!!! They work and they sound great!!! Now I just have work on the crossover phase!

    Ty all who answered me and gave me such great advice!!!!

    Going to listen to some music now:)))
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,808
    edited August 2012
    Dust caps are readily available from many different sources, e.g., www.partsexpress.com (full collection of speaker repair parts, but they have a minimum order). A product called "Aileen's Tacky Glue" - readily available from arts and crafts stores such as Michael's - is ideal for gluing dust caps to (paper) speaker cones, and also for replacing surrounds. Your rubber surrounds should last essentially forever, though.

    http://www.michaels.com/Aleene's%C2%AE-Original-Tacky-Glue%C2%AE/gc0040,default,pd.html


    If you're in the US, I'd be happy to throw a dust cap in the mail (with instructions) to you if you wish; just PM me a mailing address and it's yours!

    It is worth replacing the missing dust cap - it keeps crap out of the (magnetic) gap! :-)

    EDIT: This tutorial on re-foaming speakers will tell you more than you need to know! You can disregard almost all of it :-) just note the steps on removal and reattachment of the dust cap.
    http://www.decware.com/newsite/refoam.htm

    Because the woofer's properties (Thiele-Small parameters) will be somewhat affected by the weight and porosity of the dustcap, the "best practice" would be to replace both... that said, replacing th missing one will get you most of the value; replacing the other one with a dust cap that matches the "new" one would be incremental.
  • joyce069
    joyce069 Posts: 10
    edited August 2012
    Hi MRH,

    Thank you so much for the offer. Unfortunately I live in Canada. I certainly will make it a point to put new dust caps on both speakers, I already have looked at a you tube thing as well as going to karmaaudio.

    I hooked up my other speakers, now have four, wow, what a fabulous sound!! Cheers, Joyce
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,808
    edited August 2012
    Yeah, Customs would intercept a dustcap and assume the worst ;-)

    Enjoy your new speakers; they look pretty decent to me!

    There's a good general hifi parts supply company in Canada called Parts Connexion (they don't have what you need right now, but if you decided to refresh/upgrade your crossover capacitors, they should have an array of choices at multiple price points): http://www.partsconnexion.com/