Monitor 10 'refresh'

Vandam
Vandam Posts: 22
edited August 2012 in Vintage Speakers
Just at the tail end of my home reno and my evenings are filled with research on all things audio. My latest urge is to take my Monitor 10's and give them the refresh they deserve. I've read here that the tweeters should be replaced with the RDO194's but what about the woofers? Do most replace these at the same time or is this done only when you have a bad driver?

My tweets look like this....are the RDO194's the correct replacement?

Polk tweet.jpg


As far as I can tell there is really nothing wrong with my pair of 10's. They sound good but they do look a little rough. The vinyl is scratched up a bit but the cabinets are sound. I'm interested in taking the vinyl off and applying a nice wood veneer. I'm not the handiest fellow but unless it's like brain surgery I should be okay.

Thoughts, concerns, wishes?
Post edited by Vandam on

Comments

  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited August 2012
    I'm not a M10 expert, but I believe the RD-0194's are drop in replacements for those tweeters. No need to replace the MW's if they're working properly.

    However, you may want to epoxy the magnets in place to prevent them from shifting and ruining the driver as the glue used is now pretty old and has a history of letting go. When that happens the voice coils start to rub and the driver is very difficult to properly repair.

    Other mods you can do a search on that will improve the sound:

    Install dynamat on the passive radiator and MW baskets to reduce ringing

    Install Larry's rings or hurricane nuts on the baffles to more solidly connect the MW's/tweeters to the front baffle

    Replace speaker gaskets with armaflex (can purchase at Home Depot) or mortite (rope Caulk)

    Rebuild the Xovers using high quality film caps and resistors

    Do a search - all this as been covered several times here on CP.

    And feel free to ask for guidance - lots of knowledgeable and helpful folks here.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • transmaster
    transmaster Posts: 428
    edited August 2012
    There is no reason to replace a good set of MW-6503's. I had to replace a pair of originals on one of my 10B's, the replacements sound the same as the originals. You do want to set the magnets with epoxy they can shift with a hard knock. You must recap' I did so on my 10B's I used Sonicap Gen 1's (2 on each XO) on tweeter side, and the Axon True Cap for the low side (1 on each XO) I have about 350 hours into the refurbish job and the sound these 10b's are belting out is nothing short of astounding. I purchased my 10B's new in 1989 and they have never sounded as good as they do now.
    Radio Station W7ITC
  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited August 2012
    There is no reason to replace a good set of MW-6503's. I had to replace a pair of originals on one my 10B's, the replacements sound the same as the originals. You do want to set the magnets with epoxy they can shift with a hard knock.

    Heck, they can shift from a mouse **** or, nothing at all ! :lol:
  • transmaster
    transmaster Posts: 428
    edited August 2012
    I didn't know this about this about Polk 6.5 inch drivers until I joined this forum. The replacement drivers are set with epoxy. I have not done this with the original pair...yet.
    Radio Station W7ITC