Polk mm104 w/2 channel 2000watt max Lanzar amp

Systems
Systems Posts: 14,873
edited October 2003 in Car Audio & Electronics
I'm pretty new to car audio, and I just wanted to make sure I'm not gonna mess anything up, well...anything ELSE. Okay, I've got a 2 channel, 2000 watt max Lanzar vibrant amp and am waiting on my momo 104 sub to get here. The amp specs are telling me 500w rms per channel, is that gonna be okay to run the new sub? Also, is there a suggested gauge wire for hooking up subs? Any advice would help. Thanks.
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  • C-Man
    C-Man Posts: 307
    edited October 2003
    If you could put up a link to the Lanzar amp that would be helpful. If the amp is a 1000w rms @ 4 ohm mono that would be quite a bit too much for a single mm104. You could do it, just make sure you keep the gain low and don't over-drive the sub. The mm104's like around 500 a piece.
    The Viberant series amps are generally overrated some. You'll probably get more like 80-90% of the rated power out of the amp so I think you should do ok like I said.
    I don't know what your future plans are in car audio... adding another amp, getting bigger amps. If you plan on adding another fairly large amp in the near future, you may wanna just throw 1/0 guage wire into your car. You've already got a thousand watt amp and it's always good to have the larger wire for future upgrades. That amp itself will probably do just fine on 4 guage, so if you have no plans for upgrade or addition in the near future and wanna save some money, that would work out just fine also.
    Come to think of it that amp will probably only accept 4 guage so if you wanted to run 1/0 guage wire you'd need to run it to a distribution block that will accept a 1/0 input and has at least 4 guage outputs. You also might wanna consider getting a 1 farad capacitor for that amp, especially if you have a stock electrical system.

    Sum it up Chris.......
    4 guage will be fine if you're just gonna run that amp and have no plans for upgrade in the near future, but you can't go wrong with the bigger wire and you'll be set when you're ready to add to the system...
    "The Big C"
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  • dougie07
    dougie07 Posts: 53
    edited October 2003
    Here is the web address for the amp. http://lanzar.com/itempage.asp?MODEL=VIBE268
    I'm not planning on adding another amp right now, probably another sub though. I've already got the amp hooked up with 4 gauge, and am waiting on the sub to get here. Last weekend I put a cd player in my '99 S10 Blazer, and ran the amp and an 1800w max (650w rms) 10" American Pro sub, but messed up the sub. If I push down on the cone, it scratches against something. I'm guessing it's because I bridged it, but if you've got any other ideas on possible causes, let me know. Anyways, I just wanted to get some tips for hooking up the sub so that I don't mess it up too. Thanks for the help.

    Doug
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  • C-Man
    C-Man Posts: 307
    edited October 2003
    Yeah that's the amp I thought it would be. Well basically you'll be running a single 4 ohm sub so you can either bridge the amp or run it off a single channel. If you run that sub off one of the two channels I really don't think you'll get enough power to run it. I figure you'd have to bridge the amp. Now if you added another MM104 later on you'd have to get another amp. One that is 2 ohm mono stable... basically a class D or very high quality class AB. If you run that Lanzar in a 2 ohm mono load you will most likely burn the amp up in no time.
    The only other option for once you got two subs is run them each of the separate channels of the amp but again you won't get enough power to either sub, and there would be a good chance you'd ruin two subs instead of one.
    "The Big C"
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  • dougie07
    dougie07 Posts: 53
    edited October 2003
    So if I bridge it, will it be okay? Is there a break-in procedure? Another wiring question...I've got the 4 gauge wire running from the battery, to the in-line fuse, to a distribution block that goes from a single 4 gauge to two 8 gauge connections (one of which is going to the amp, the other is not connected). Should I take that off and run the 4 gauge straight to the amp, or leave it as is? Thanks much.

    Doug
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  • C-Man
    C-Man Posts: 307
    edited October 2003
    If the amp accepts 4 guage it would be a good idea to just get rid of that distribution block and run the 4 all the way to the amp. Like I said that amp won't do 2000 watts, but I'm pretty sure it will put out around 900 or so on a bridged 4 ohm load. I don't think you wanna put much more than 500 watts on 8 guage line. Generally it would be ok to put up to about 600 watts on a short piece of 8 guage(like you're running it) but I definately wouldn't wanna chance anything more than that. It will be OK to bridge that amp and run it to the single sub, like I said just make sure you keep the gain low and don't over exert it.

    There is a break in period of 40 hours on those subs. You definately wanna make sure you do that. If your deck has a sub level, keep it very low to begin with, increasing it little by little as time goes on... Of course when you originally set up the amp you're going to have to adjust everything at your regular listening levels, just try to keep the time your pushing the sub very hard to a minimum... or take it to a local shop and have them do it for you. Once it's set up, turn the head unit level down and start your break in period.
    "The Big C"
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  • dougie07
    dougie07 Posts: 53
    edited October 2003
    Thanks for your advice. It's been a lot of help, and will be very handy when the sub gets here.

    Doug
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  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited October 2003
    am i missing something?
    to me it looks like if you bridge that amp youll get 1000watts at 4 ohms RMS
    in which case you would not bridge it....you would just put one sub in one channel
    and itd give you 500 watts RMS
    -Cody
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  • C-Man
    C-Man Posts: 307
    edited October 2003
    No, the spec on that website is a typo because it will give you 1000X1 bridged 4, so there would be no way it could give you 500X2 4 ohm stereo. It's supposed to say 500X2 rms @2ohm stereo. So I figured 250X2 4 ohm stereo... also taking into consideration that most of Lanzar's amps are a little overrated, 225-250 watts would be pretty greatly underpowering that sub.
    "The Big C"
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  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited October 2003
    oo...ok...that typo could seriously screw someone up when buying an amp...lol
    -Cody
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  • C-Man
    C-Man Posts: 307
    edited October 2003
    LOL yeah I know, I actually emailed them a long time ago about that and asked if it was correct and they emailed me back insisting the website said 2 ohm stereo. It still hasn't been corrected. Ah well what can ya do?:D
    "The Big C"
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  • MTXMAN
    MTXMAN Posts: 682
    edited October 2003
    it's lanzar, what do you expect
    Hemi: (HEM -e) adj. Mopar in type, V8, hot tempered, native to the United States, carnivorous, eats primarily Mustangs, Camaros, and Corvettes. Also enjoys smoking a good import now and then to relax.
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