RTiA or LSi 15's?

badchad
badchad Posts: 348
edited August 2012 in Speakers
Wondering if I could get some input on speaker selection for a home theatre system. Use will be almost strictly for home theatre (99% movies and TV, barely any music).

Initially, I liked the appearance and price point of RTiA line (specifically the RTiA7's). However, I'm seeing great deals for LSi15's for about the same price (give or take). So what are the pro's and con's of the RTiA's versus the LSi 15's? This will be my first decent home theatre, so I'm somewhat of a noob on component selection.

I'm planning a completely new system, so I have very few components picked out. The only other speaker I have is the subwoofer: an original HSU VT-3 (MK1). I'm planning a 7.1 system in a room that is approximately 20' x 20' square, and will be seated about 12-13 ft from the front stage.

Part of me thinks this is a no-brainer, and I should go with the more expensive line, but I was curious if anyone had some sage advice.
Polk Fronts: RTi A7's
Polk Center: CSi A6
Polk Surrounds: FXi A6's
Polk Rear Surround: RTi4
Sub: HSU VTF-3 (MK1)
AVR: Yamaha RX-A2010
B&K Reference 200.7
TV: Sharp LC-70LE847U
Oppo BDP-103
Post edited by badchad on

Comments

  • pyrocyborg
    pyrocyborg Posts: 524
    edited July 2012
    Well, both requires a lot of power to run, and the LSi series are 4 ohm speakers. Thus, they require a 4 ohm capable amplifier (most Power Amplifiers are, and most receivers aren't). What I mean is that you can't expect to run tower speakers that large off a receiver without losing something : the receiver could overheat, or the speakers couldn't sound as expected. Also, you can't run the LSi15 off a receiver without any risk (e.g. overheating, clipping, breaking speakers or receiver), but it doesn't mean that you couldn't run them at low to moderate level.

    Either way, you need a good amplifier (120-150 real watts), not a "100w" (if it's ever 100w) receiver to run a pair of towers to their best. If you don't do this, you're best off with bookshelf speakers, in my opinion.

    Are the LSi15 way better? I wouldn't think so, expecially if you do not listen to music. The LSi line is a musical line of speaker that do very well for home theater duties, but they should sound almost the same than the RTiA line for this. What disturbed me with the RTiA line was the natural "brightness" of the speakers; a lot more treble than I was used to, which I didn't like for music. On the other hand, it helped a lot in sound clarity during movies: breaking windows sounded real... lol

    If you do not listen to music, I would skip the LSi line except if you really like the design and stay with the RTiA.
    Speakers: Polk Audio LSiM 705, LSiM 703, LSiM 704c
    Receiver: Denon X3500H
  • badchad
    badchad Posts: 348
    edited July 2012
    Thanks for input. Yes, I did plan to (eventually) get a power amplifier, but that would be a future purchase. Initially, I'd like to get the speakers in the room and get them running off a receiver, then amp.

    So, with the RTIa7's being 8ohm, those would probably be a better match if I wanted to run straight off the receiver? Is that right?
    Polk Fronts: RTi A7's
    Polk Center: CSi A6
    Polk Surrounds: FXi A6's
    Polk Rear Surround: RTi4
    Sub: HSU VTF-3 (MK1)
    AVR: Yamaha RX-A2010
    B&K Reference 200.7
    TV: Sharp LC-70LE847U
    Oppo BDP-103
  • pyrocyborg
    pyrocyborg Posts: 524
    edited July 2012
    So, with the RTIa7's being 8ohm, those would probably be a better match if I wanted to run straight off the receiver? Is that right?

    It would be safer, indeed. However, as your receiver power (probably 50w as the 100 dynamic watts means nothing) is lower than what the RTiA7 can take (300w?), you'll have to keep it to normal listening level: if you start hearing distorsion or "clipping", lower the volume immediately. It shouldn't happen in a 20x20 room by the way, except if you want earthquake bass and ear piercing screech... :cheesygrin:

    With a 100 or 150w power amp, it should sound way better, and if you want more "headroom", you could try to get a 200 or 250w amp. There is no trouble overpowering the speakers (i.e. pairing a 300w max speaker with a 350w amp), as long as you don't push the amp too hard. Keep in mind that overpowering is less dangerous than underpowering... but to keep it safe, you could set a volume limit on your receiver (just in case someone step on the volume a bit too much :rolleyes:).

    So... if you don't have a power amp right now, go for the RTiA. They can run with a receiver, but not at their best: at least, it will be way less risky than using 4 ohm towers with a 8 ohm receiver. Don't get me wrong, the RTiA7 will sound goog off a receiver, but they just won't sound as great as they should with proper amplification... :cool:
    Speakers: Polk Audio LSiM 705, LSiM 703, LSiM 704c
    Receiver: Denon X3500H
  • ravaneli
    ravaneli Posts: 530
    edited July 2012
    Rti looks better furniture-wise and sounds more exciting and is 8-ohm. Get the A5s. paired with that sub you would be in in great shape.
    BlueFox wrote: »
    I have found that tube based computers provide the best sound quality. ENIAC and MANIAC I offer a smooth, well defined and articulated sound unmatched by the current silicon based CPUs. :wink:
    But as in all things your perception is your reality.
  • mystik610
    mystik610 Posts: 699
    edited July 2012
    Movies or Music?
    My System Showcase!

    Media Room
    Paradigm Studio 60 - Paradigm CC-690 - Paradigm ADP-390 - Epik Empire - Anthem MRX300 - Emotiva XPA-5

    Living-room
    Paradigm MilleniaOne - Rythmik F12GSE - Onkyo TX-SR805 - Adcom 5400

    Headphones
    Sennheiser Momentum Over-Ear - Shure SE215 - Fiio E18 Kunlun
  • naturallight
    naturallight Posts: 689
    edited July 2012
    Well i guess the first and most important thing is what AVR unit your thinking of buying....that will pretty much determine the speakers you can run. Most AVR power rateings are half ****..not real and the more speakers you put on it the power drops way off. So really thats the first choice you have to make, and how much money you want to throw at it.

    LSi 15's for the most part do not play well with AVR's..unless they have massive power..but then your talking really big bucks. RTi stuff..depending on what model you chose..will play OK..dependent on the power of the AVR.
  • badchad
    badchad Posts: 348
    edited July 2012
    Depending on what I got the speakers for, I'm probably looking for an AVR in the range of $700-1000.

    I've had good experiences with Yamaha, so off the top of my head I'd definitely consider the HTR-7065. I have very few components that I need to hook up to it, essentially blu-ray, a laptop for media, and the TV set top box.

    I'd like something I can get started with pretty quickly, so it would be great if I could get a 7.1 setup that played nice with an AVR, then I could AMP later on.

    Thanks for the responses thus far. Definitely leaning towards the RTi series.
    Polk Fronts: RTi A7's
    Polk Center: CSi A6
    Polk Surrounds: FXi A6's
    Polk Rear Surround: RTi4
    Sub: HSU VTF-3 (MK1)
    AVR: Yamaha RX-A2010
    B&K Reference 200.7
    TV: Sharp LC-70LE847U
    Oppo BDP-103
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,596
    edited July 2012
    Go RTi for HT use only. You wont have to get an amp to start with or make sure its going to give enough wattage to drive the LSi's. That and as mentioned the "brightness" prone to that series is perfect for Home Theater use. I agree with just about every point posted above about the RTi v. LSi line.

    Are the LSi's really good: Heck yeah, but you need to invest in some good gear behind them to really get the most out of them. The RTi's are a bit below the level of the LSi's but dont require nearly the gear behind them to sound their best.

    If your doing mostly HT I would also skip the RTi A9's and go with either the A5's or A7's and spend money on one or two really good subs, in like the 600 dollar range. They will make up for the low end your not getting from the fronts. I would see no problem with going with a CSi A6, RTi A5's, RTi A3 surrounds (or even cheaper ones like the Monitor 30's) and good subs.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • jbooker82
    jbooker82 Posts: 1,627
    edited July 2012
    badchad wrote: »
    Thanks for input. Yes, I did plan to (eventually) get a power amplifier, but that would be a future purchase. Initially, I'd like to get the speakers in the room and get them running off a receiver, then amp.

    So, with the RTIa7's being 8ohm, those would probably be a better match if I wanted to run straight off the receiver? Is that right?

    I would go with at least RTi A7's especially since you plan on an amp later on down the road. How soon and how seriouse you are about the amp you could go for the RTi A9's if you have the room. For the side surrounds go with ethire FXI A4's or FXI A6's. You can also use them for the rear surrounds but rear surounds are supose to be direct firing and placed reletivly colose to each other twards the center of the room. The act almost like a wide rear center channel.
    AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
    Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
    Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Rear: FXI A4
    Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
    TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
    Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
    IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II
  • badchad
    badchad Posts: 348
    edited August 2012
    jbooker82 wrote: »
    For the side surrounds go with ethire FXI A4's or FXI A6's. You can also use them for the rear surrounds but rear surounds are supose to be direct firing and placed reletivly colose to each other twards the center of the room. The act almost like a wide rear center channel.

    Thanks. I think I have the room (20'X20') for A9's, but my budget will probably dictate my choice more than anything. I don't see a lot of cherry RTi's up in the classifieds.

    As far as surrounds go, would it be ok to mix FXI's (as side surrounds) and RTi's (as rear surrounds)? I have some hesitation to go with the FXI's since they won't match the front stage. There is a small degree of WAF in this setup.
    Polk Fronts: RTi A7's
    Polk Center: CSi A6
    Polk Surrounds: FXi A6's
    Polk Rear Surround: RTi4
    Sub: HSU VTF-3 (MK1)
    AVR: Yamaha RX-A2010
    B&K Reference 200.7
    TV: Sharp LC-70LE847U
    Oppo BDP-103
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,596
    edited August 2012
    The fxi line will mix fine with RTi they are voiced the same.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • jbooker82
    jbooker82 Posts: 1,627
    edited August 2012
    Yea if your going to run a 7.1 then A1's or A3's are norrmaly used for rear surrounds. You are supose to use a direct firing speaker for rear surrounds.
    AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
    Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
    Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Rear: FXI A4
    Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
    TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
    Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
    IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,990
    edited August 2012
    "For best results, follow directions."

    If you're going w/the RTi A series LR or LCR, go w/RTi A series for sides/surrounds. Mixing different speakers even from the same company will less likely produce the surround coherence or "immersion," as I like to say, that you seek.

    While its true the RTi & RTi A series share the same tweeters & have similar driver arrays, they have different XO components & frequencies & maybe* different mids* & woofers*.
    * someone chime in here

    You can't deny the RTi A series look sexier. And that closure design is more rigid and controls internal standing waves better.

    Remember to keep a sub and heavy speaker wire on your "finished list." Then enjoy!

    My .$02. Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s