Current Practice on Recapping

mlhm5

I had saved all the threads regarding recapping and had planned to do it last Winter, but...anyway I have some free
time (house is painted) and would like to begin the recap of my fused Monitor 7's with the Peerless. Not sure which
diagram is the one to use from the sticky. Help here

I don't want to get into a cap war, but would be willing to spend $50-$75 a speaker for just the caps and resistors. Suggestions please. Also which source.

As far as the use of speaker gasket material, what is best practice. Also what is best practice on the dampening of the speaker and passive.

F1nut

Take a look at your crossovers, the values are printed on the components.

drumminman

mlhm5 wrote: »

I had saved all the threads regarding recapping and had planned to do it last Winter, but...anyway I have some free
time (house is painted) and would like to begin the recap of my fused Monitor 7's with the Peerless. Not sure which
diagram is the one to use from the sticky. Help here

I don't want to get into a cap war, but would be willing to spend $50-$75 a speaker for just the caps and resistors. Suggestions please. Also which source.

As far as the use of speaker gasket material, what is best practice. Also what is best practice on the dampening of the speaker and passive.

I've had great success with Sonicap Gen 1 caps & mills resistors for the Xover which can be purchased here: http://www.soniccraft.com, and armaflex for the speaker gaskets, which can be purchased at home depot. I've also had success using mortite (rope caulk), also purchased at the big box home improvement stores.

Good luck!

heiney9

For more budget conscious go with Clarity Cap PX's. I love the Sonicaps but they are more expensive, so if you are willing to spend a bit more go with those.

I prefer the Mills to Mundorf resistors, but either is better than the stock and or cheap stock replacement.

It's really not that difficult to decide. Also many, inclduing myself, use the nicer caps for the high pass and use something like a Solen or Erse, etc for the low pass. Still better caps than electrolytics but not quite as critical for the low pass.

My favorite combo for my 5B's is Clarity Cap PX for the high pass, Solen for the low pass and Mills for resistors. I also bypassed the fuses on the terminal cup.

Good luck and keep us posted

H9

mlhm5

heiney9 wrote: »

For more budget conscious go with Clarity Cap PX's. I love the Sonicaps but they are more expensive, so if you are willing to spend a bit more go with those.

I prefer the Mills to Mundorf resistors, but either is better than the stock and or cheap stock replacement.

It's really not that difficult to decide. Also many, inclduing myself, use the nicer caps for the high pass and use something like a Solen or Erse, etc for the low pass. Still better caps than electrolytics but not quite as critical for the low pass.

My favorite combo for my 5B's is Clarity Cap PX for the high pass, Solen for the low pass and Mills for resistors. I also bypassed the fuses on the terminal cup.

Good luck and keep us posted

H9

Thanks. I have looked for a thread on the bypass of the fuse. Could you provide instructions or a link? These speakers are connected to a recapped and updated Yamaha M-40 coupled with a Yamaha C4 preamp, so the power is really clean.

drumminman

I think all you need to do to get rid of the fuse is desolder the fuse holder and take it out. Either solder a piece of wire in place to connect the holes left in the circuit board, or solder in a resistor. The fuse has some resistance so it may end up sounding a little too bright with only a piece of wire.

Depending on the size of the fuse you could start with a 0.2 ohm. If the sound is still too bright you could go to a 0.5 ohm. Whoever you end up ordering your order your parts from I'd order resistors in several different values. They're only $3-4 each, and you'd save on shipping and handling.