Speaker I.D. (again)

goofyGAguy
goofyGAguy Posts: 545
edited June 2012 in Vintage Speakers
Hi. Sorry to keep doing this.:redface: Anyone know the model on these (no label on back.) Thanks.

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/ele/3101887136.html
My humble setup...

...is no more. :cry:
Post edited by goofyGAguy on
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Comments

  • audio_alan
    audio_alan Posts: 770
    edited June 2012
    Those look like Monitor 10's to me... probably 10B's.
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  • Dawgfish
    Dawgfish Posts: 2,554
    edited June 2012
    Those are definitely Monitor 10s though I'm not sure which ones (A or B). That price is a steal! Get in the car now and go get them. My home is only about 40 miles from Flowery Branch and if I were home right now I would be racing you there to go pick them up! ;-) Go get 'em!
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  • audio_alan
    audio_alan Posts: 770
    edited June 2012
    I agree with Dawgfish, that's a ridiculously good price.
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  • goofyGAguy
    goofyGAguy Posts: 545
    edited June 2012
    Dawgfish wrote: »
    Go get 'em!

    Yes sir! Uh, is the only difference between the A and B the tweeter used?
    My humble setup...

    ...is no more. :cry:
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  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
    edited June 2012
    Pretty sure that's true. 10As have the Peerless, 10 Bs SL series (silver domes). In any case, $30 dollars in "working" condition. That's a NO brainer. Get'em, NOW!

    No more questions will be answered till we see the pics of them in your home!

    cnh
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
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  • jimbo1421
    jimbo1421 Posts: 772
    edited June 2012
    In the first pic, the speaker on the left appears to have open mitre joints on the lower corners (actually the top of the speaker; it's upside down). If so, I would pass on them. It can be difficult to get those joints to seal up again. I know, I have tried. This is important because the passive bass radiator is designed to work against a certain amount of back pressure provided by a sealed cabinet. Try the press test: press and hold in the passive radiator. The two midwoofers should push out and then slowly return to position, maybe ten seconds. If they pop right back, there is an air leak.

    They might be good for parts, though.

    Jim
    5.1 System:
    TCL R613 55" 4K
    Front: SRS-3.1TL
    Center: CS400i
    Surround: Monitor 10B
    PSW10 subwoofer
    Onkyo PR-SC886P Pre/Pro
    NAD T955 5 channel power amplifier
    Technics SL-1710 MK2 turntable
    Audio-Technica AT14Sa cartridge
    Parasound P3 pre-amp
    Oppo BDP-103 Blu-Ray
    2014 MacBook Pro 2.8 GHz

    2.0 Office System:
    Monitor 10A (Peerless)
    Outlaw 1050 receiver
    Parasound HCA-1000A power amp
    MacPro
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  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
    edited June 2012
    jimbo1421 wrote: »
    In the first pic, the speaker on the left appears to have open mitre joints on the lower corners (actually the top of the speaker; it's upside down). If so, I would pass on them. It can be difficult to get those joints to seal up again. I know, I have tried. This is important because the passive bass radiator is designed to work against a certain amount of back pressure provided by a sealed cabinet. Try the press test: press and hold in the passive radiator. The two midwoofers should push out and then slowly return to position, maybe ten seconds. If they pop right back, there is an air leak.

    They might be good for parts, though.

    Jim

    Good eye there. I didn't notice. But you're right!

    cnh
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
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  • audio_alan
    audio_alan Posts: 770
    edited June 2012
    Nothing a little caulk can't fix. ;-) Kidding! Just kidding!
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  • TNHNDYMAN
    TNHNDYMAN Posts: 2,145
    edited June 2012
    Yea I would grab them at that price in a heartbeat. In fack if ScottyBoy is in the Atlanta area today, I would ask him to get them for me or himself and deal with details later. If you want them GAguy, you'd better hurry cause they won't last the day at that price.
    2-ch System: Parasound P/LD 2000 pre, Parasound HCA-1000 amp, Parasound T/DQ Tuner, Phase Technology PC-100 Tower speakers, Technics SL-1600 Turntable, Denon 2910 SACD/CD player, Peachtree DAC iT and X1asynchorus USB converter, HSU VTF-3 subwoofer.

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  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,414
    edited June 2012
    Hurry if u dont i will take them . LOL. Run dont walk!
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
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  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited June 2012
    Is it the light or the cabinets are different colored?
    The left one looks oak while the right one looks like rosewood/cherry colored.
    May be they are from two different pairs.
    Regardless, $30 is a steal. You can't even get Monitor 4's for that.

    5Gb5E85F13Ff3J13Nac6qab05bf5426c715e9.jpg

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
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  • goofyGAguy
    goofyGAguy Posts: 545
    edited June 2012
    They gone. :frown:
    My humble setup...

    ...is no more. :cry:
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited June 2012
    The cabinet should be fixable. IF it was me I'd apply some good quality construction adhesive or wood glue and clamp with high quality clamps like Bessey.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • jimbo1421
    jimbo1421 Posts: 772
    edited June 2012
    The reason the joints open up is usually due to exposure to moisture. The particle board swells and the mitre joint is deformed. It won't draw up tight again. On mine I tried filling the open joint with epoxy, but never could get a complete seal that would hold. Others may have better luck.

    Jim
    5.1 System:
    TCL R613 55" 4K
    Front: SRS-3.1TL
    Center: CS400i
    Surround: Monitor 10B
    PSW10 subwoofer
    Onkyo PR-SC886P Pre/Pro
    NAD T955 5 channel power amplifier
    Technics SL-1710 MK2 turntable
    Audio-Technica AT14Sa cartridge
    Parasound P3 pre-amp
    Oppo BDP-103 Blu-Ray
    2014 MacBook Pro 2.8 GHz

    2.0 Office System:
    Monitor 10A (Peerless)
    Outlaw 1050 receiver
    Parasound HCA-1000A power amp
    MacPro
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  • TNHNDYMAN
    TNHNDYMAN Posts: 2,145
    edited June 2012
    Sorry goofyguy- wish you could have gotten them. For $30 don't ask ?'s on the vintage Polks (hell any of them) like one member said a pair of the 6 1/2 drivers will go for $30-50 so next time contact the seller and go get them. At $100 or more I'd look into condition and all that, but for $30 I'd buy just about any speaker made in the 70-80's that looked a little decent much less Polks.
    2-ch System: Parasound P/LD 2000 pre, Parasound HCA-1000 amp, Parasound T/DQ Tuner, Phase Technology PC-100 Tower speakers, Technics SL-1600 Turntable, Denon 2910 SACD/CD player, Peachtree DAC iT and X1asynchorus USB converter, HSU VTF-3 subwoofer.

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