Capacitor questions.
I just re capped one of my Monitor 5A. I have a couple questions.
Any idea why the 12uF is physically bigger than the 34uF? I could imagine they asked for some that were longer just to span the PCB better. I got a couple of Jantzen 400V caps and they really show the difference I would expect.
Is there a down side to higher voltage caps? Also, I had to settle for a 33uF cap, how different is that 3% in the grand scheme? That cap is parallel with the woofer. Why would I want that effect? It will slow the rise across the driver and accelerate the dissipation when a wave passes, but it may be allowing the cone to travel farther? Increasing the low frequency response (with phase shift) and absorbing higher ones? Am I interpreting this right?
I did notice the new caps added some nearly inaudible, but felt lows compared to the speaker I have not re capped yet. I think that those lows are possible with such a small speaker is really cool. I never gave passive radiators much thought before this. But that is another topic and another list of questions.
Thanks for all your help!
BM
Any idea why the 12uF is physically bigger than the 34uF? I could imagine they asked for some that were longer just to span the PCB better. I got a couple of Jantzen 400V caps and they really show the difference I would expect.
Is there a down side to higher voltage caps? Also, I had to settle for a 33uF cap, how different is that 3% in the grand scheme? That cap is parallel with the woofer. Why would I want that effect? It will slow the rise across the driver and accelerate the dissipation when a wave passes, but it may be allowing the cone to travel farther? Increasing the low frequency response (with phase shift) and absorbing higher ones? Am I interpreting this right?
I did notice the new caps added some nearly inaudible, but felt lows compared to the speaker I have not re capped yet. I think that those lows are possible with such a small speaker is really cool. I never gave passive radiators much thought before this. But that is another topic and another list of questions.
Thanks for all your help!
BM
BentMike
Polk Audio Monitor 5A
Sansui SP-3500
NAD 1020 Preamp
Crown D- 75A Power Amp
Musiland Monitor USD --> FiiO DAC
Polk Audio Monitor 5A
Sansui SP-3500
NAD 1020 Preamp
Crown D- 75A Power Amp
Musiland Monitor USD --> FiiO DAC
Post edited by BentMike on
Comments
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Any idea why the 12uF is physically bigger than the 34uF?
The 12 is mylar, the 34 is electrolytic.Is there a down side to higher voltage caps?
They are larger.Also, I had to settle for a 33uF cap, how different is that 3% in the grand scheme?
It's well within the original +/-10% tolerance, so not really a concern. That said, I like my caps to be +/-1% just 'cause.
Wait until you do both speakers and get at least 200 hours on them before judging. You did the resistor(s) too, right?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
U can add a 1 uf cap " piggie backed with the 33 to give u yhe 34 uf u need.Main Rig:
Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
MIT exp 1 ic's
Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
AQ kingcobra ic's
OPPO 83 CDP
Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
ADS L1590/2 Biamped
MIT exps2 speaker cable -
You would be better off evenly splitting the capacitance and placing 2 in parallel (ie. 17uF + 17uF = 34uF). I know that the math comes out the same and PSpice does not show but sonically it is different and not good. I tried this when I did the XO's in my RTA11TL's. Actually, you would be better off just going with the 33uF as it is only 3% off which is far better than the originals when new.
StanStan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
You would be better off evenly splitting the capacitance and placing 2 in parallel (ie. 17uF + 17uF = 34uF).
Exactly. The large difference between the 33uF and the 1uF has the 1uF acting like a bypass cap.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
